Discussion
Whilst striping some of the water anciliaries off the Cerb today, I came across a cable of sorts that screwed into one of the water pipes/thermostat. And after unscrewing it, it wouldn't pull out.
The question is, does it come out, and should I just give it a good yank? Does it come out at all? The other end goes into bodywork towards the dash.
Pictures below:
I did edit the pic to arrow where the exact pipe is, but it doesn't seem to want to appear.
Its the thin cable with the spring round the entire length.
THanks
Cad
The question is, does it come out, and should I just give it a good yank? Does it come out at all? The other end goes into bodywork towards the dash.
Pictures below:
I did edit the pic to arrow where the exact pipe is, but it doesn't seem to want to appear.
Its the thin cable with the spring round the entire length.
THanks
Cad
Edited by caduceus on Sunday 10th February 21:00
Yes it should come out. Its a brass fitting on the end of the capillary IIRC
Take care trying to get it out. Its probably corroded and a good yank may well fracture the capillary.
If you are going to remove the metal swan neck pipe completely I would suggest removing the ECU temp sender and squirting some penetrating oil in. Once the swan neck is removed you can flush out the penetrating oil.
Take care trying to get it out. Its probably corroded and a good yank may well fracture the capillary.
If you are going to remove the metal swan neck pipe completely I would suggest removing the ECU temp sender and squirting some penetrating oil in. Once the swan neck is removed you can flush out the penetrating oil.
mikesr said:
Yes it should come out. Its a brass fitting on the end of the capillary IIRC
Take care trying to get it out. Its probably corroded and a good yank may well fracture the capillary.
If you are going to remove the metal swan neck pipe completely I would suggest removing the ECU temp sender and squirting some penetrating oil in. Once the swan neck is removed you can flush out the penetrating oil.
Take care trying to get it out. Its probably corroded and a good yank may well fracture the capillary.
If you are going to remove the metal swan neck pipe completely I would suggest removing the ECU temp sender and squirting some penetrating oil in. Once the swan neck is removed you can flush out the penetrating oil.
Thanks Mike. Will give that a try next weekend.Something tells me I may have already fccuked it
trying to get it out. So may end up putting a new one in.Cad
Hi there I replaced my old corroded pipes with new s/s pipes from ACT.
If you are going to do the same the best way I found to get the sensers out with no damage was to cut through the old pipes either side and then unscrew whot is left from the senser so not wind up the senser cable and then when of you can release the outer body from the inner with releasing fluid so it will screw back into the new S/S pipe.
Hope this helps
John .
If you are going to do the same the best way I found to get the sensers out with no damage was to cut through the old pipes either side and then unscrew whot is left from the senser so not wind up the senser cable and then when of you can release the outer body from the inner with releasing fluid so it will screw back into the new S/S pipe.
Hope this helps
John .
I buggered mine up when taking it out. I "yanked" a bit too hard and fractured the capilliary.
The only snag with that is that it is attached to the gauge and cannot be removed. You will need to get the a new capilliary attached to the gauge and obviously remove the dashboard to get to it. Cost me about £60!
Best thing I ever did, because now the capilliary runs through the valley of the engine instead of right next to the exhaust manifold(!) and now I get a much more sensible reading from the gauge. No more arse clenching situations in traffic jams!! I expect the new water pipes helped aswell.
Best of luck.
Ed
The only snag with that is that it is attached to the gauge and cannot be removed. You will need to get the a new capilliary attached to the gauge and obviously remove the dashboard to get to it. Cost me about £60!
Best thing I ever did, because now the capilliary runs through the valley of the engine instead of right next to the exhaust manifold(!) and now I get a much more sensible reading from the gauge. No more arse clenching situations in traffic jams!! I expect the new water pipes helped aswell.
Best of luck.
Ed
) Cables for a repair.The capiliary tube is a closed system containing ether. The fact that the bulb has been severed from the tube means that the ether has escaped and you therefor can't simply resolder the tube to the bulb.
Speedy cables are the repair side of the business that makes the gauges. Yes, they can fix it, but from what I've heard they take a while to turn the job around.
Hope that makes sense?
Tim
Speedy cables are the repair side of the business that makes the gauges. Yes, they can fix it, but from what I've heard they take a while to turn the job around.
Hope that makes sense?
Tim
mikesr said:
Take care trying to get it out. Its probably corroded and a good yank may well fracture the capillary.
The capilary is well f*&&ed Gave it a try carefully anf it just lunched itself.
After taking the pipe off, looking at the way it protrudes into the pipe didn't impress me at all. So I'm going to modify the stainless steel ones from ACT that will be on order soon.
Oh the joys of Cerb ownership
caduceus said:
mikesr said:
Take care trying to get it out. Its probably corroded and a good yank may well fracture the capillary.
The capilary is well f*&&ed Gave it a try carefully anf it just lunched itself.
After taking the pipe off, looking at the way it protrudes into the pipe didn't impress me at all. So I'm going to modify the stainless steel ones from ACT that will be on order soon.
Oh the joys of Cerb ownership
Bud
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