Clutch Master Cylinder
Discussion
Rummaging about in the footwell I have noticed a very small amount of fluid on the clutch pedal.
I want to nip this in the bud, so I assume its a seal kit or new cylinder thats required - can any one save me a search tell me what/where to buy the bits.
Cheers for any info.
Robert
97 4.2
I want to nip this in the bud, so I assume its a seal kit or new cylinder thats required - can any one save me a search tell me what/where to buy the bits.
Cheers for any info.
Robert
97 4.2
Edited by Cerberab on Monday 11th February 10:34
This thread may help, http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be careful the above thread is for the Brake Master Culinder I think.
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I changed my Clutch Master and I took it to a local motor factors, they were really helpful and I found out that its from a TR7! Check your though as I have found there are several types, some have angled heads.
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I changed my Clutch Master and I took it to a local motor factors, they were really helpful and I found out that its from a TR7! Check your though as I have found there are several types, some have angled heads.
Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Monday 11th February 18:45
Hi all.
You can strip down the Master Cylinder in situ from the drivers footwell.
I got a upgraded seal set from TCS.
If you do this and strip it down in situ unscrew the clutch filler cap (under the black cover) put clingfill over the neck and put the cap back on, these creates a vacume and stops the loss of a lot of fluid.
When the end is released the piston can be helped out with a strong magnet(old speaker).
It's tight on space doing it this way but is quicker in the long run.
You can strip down the Master Cylinder in situ from the drivers footwell.
I got a upgraded seal set from TCS.
If you do this and strip it down in situ unscrew the clutch filler cap (under the black cover) put clingfill over the neck and put the cap back on, these creates a vacume and stops the loss of a lot of fluid.
When the end is released the piston can be helped out with a strong magnet(old speaker).
It's tight on space doing it this way but is quicker in the long run.
Extra 300 Driver said:
Be careful the above thread is for the Brake Master Culinder I think.
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I changed my Clutch Master and I took it to a local motor factors, they were really helpful and I found out that its from a TR7! Check your though as I have found there are several types, some have angled heads.
I tried every where for a match for the clutch master,as you can see from the previous thread when i asked.In the end settled for the CT one.About £70incl V.A.T. and carriage.http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I changed my Clutch Master and I took it to a local motor factors, they were really helpful and I found out that its from a TR7! Check your though as I have found there are several types, some have angled heads.
Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Monday 11th February 18:45
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