Discussion
Took the daily driver in to sort out poor starting and very flat above 4,500 RPM - told it's something technical and expensive so thought I'd get drunk.
Mission accomplished!
What shall I do now? I know ... new dash is due later this week - I'll remove the old one!
Guess who didn't label anything? That's right - me!
Let's hope it all becomes obvious when the new one is delivered. :slightlyworriedsmilie:
I'm guessing the new dash will come with no fittings, etc., so I'll have to fix them myself. Is the preferred method Araldite or similar?
Mission accomplished!
What shall I do now? I know ... new dash is due later this week - I'll remove the old one!
Guess who didn't label anything? That's right - me!
Let's hope it all becomes obvious when the new one is delivered. :slightlyworriedsmilie:
I'm guessing the new dash will come with no fittings, etc., so I'll have to fix them myself. Is the preferred method Araldite or similar?
LordGrover said:
What shall I do now?
Get drunk again? 
You've only got the main connectors to the loom to connect back up - they should be pretty well obvious as they are keyed IIRC. The bit people label anally is when they disconnect the wiring from the instruments - just do that when you dismantle the dash itself - no problem.
Dave
Grover, what are you gonna do with the old dash and heater panel?
Seems kinda ironic that I'll soon be doing what you're doing here, but with the aim of having a carbon fascia. I bought some 3M carbon roll (ebay £25) and some acrylic lacquer for £3 to do the job myself. Did some trials and got a fabulous finish after some graft with the leccy mop and Farecla.
Seems kinda ironic that I'll soon be doing what you're doing here, but with the aim of having a carbon fascia. I bought some 3M carbon roll (ebay £25) and some acrylic lacquer for £3 to do the job myself. Did some trials and got a fabulous finish after some graft with the leccy mop and Farecla.
How did it go Ian? The back of your dash looks somewhat different to mine and looks like you didn't have to remove the power aerial feed from the ISO connector like I did - you'd probably have passed out first, it was hard enough doing it sober!
My instruments didn't have any araldite type stuff anywhere near them, the legs on the back of mine push straight against the dash panel itself, might be because I have different instruments though?
My instruments didn't have any araldite type stuff anywhere near them, the legs on the back of mine push straight against the dash panel itself, might be because I have different instruments though?
LordGrover said:
Griffit said:
... My instruments didn't have any araldite type stuff anywhere near them, the legs on the back of mine push straight against the dash panel itself, might be because I have different instruments though?
Araldite should work, used it recently on the rear of a dash and it held fine.
You will have to place your clocks into the holes first to get the position of the brackets correct.
You replacing like for like dash wise?
Or are you repostioning/replacing? Oil temp gauge instead of clock has to be the way to go...
You will have to place your clocks into the holes first to get the position of the brackets correct.
You replacing like for like dash wise?
Or are you repostioning/replacing? Oil temp gauge instead of clock has to be the way to go...
Edited by AntonyJ on Wednesday 13th February 20:00
I'd not given it a lot of thought.
I kinda like the rearrangement as shown on thegriffithpages:
Maybe once I have my new 'standard' dash in I could use the old one to create something a bit more interesting? You've got me thinking now.
I kinda like the rearrangement as shown on thegriffithpages:
Maybe once I have my new 'standard' dash in I could use the old one to create something a bit more interesting? You've got me thinking now.
AntonyJ said:
... Oil temp gauge instead of clock has to be the way to go...
I don't like or need the clock, but why oil temperature in particular? I'm aware it's an important issue with the speed sixes but not heard of it being a concern on our old lumps.Maybe replace the oil pressure with a dual gauge?
I reckon a dB meter would be kinda kewl though.
I'd check what size of gauges you have, some of the early cars had 60mm gauges which are very awkward to match up.. They look similar but that 8mm sticks out like a sore thumb when they are aligned.
PS: don't like those dual gauges - std gauges are hard enough to read with a quick glance when you are trapping.
Dave
PS: don't like those dual gauges - std gauges are hard enough to read with a quick glance when you are trapping.
Dave
LordGrover said:
AntonyJ said:
... Oil temp gauge instead of clock has to be the way to go...
I don't like or need the clock, but why oil temperature in particular? I'm aware it's an important issue with the speed sixes but not heard of it being a concern on our old lumps.Maybe replace the oil pressure with a dual gauge?
I reckon a dB meter would be kinda kewl though.
I was thinking of getting hold of a water temp. gauge and using that(maybe change the symbol on the gauge)
LordGrover said:
Right. New one's received. 
It looks pretty good too.
Just have to find a way to remove resin/Araldite from the existing brackets before I start reattaching everything to this one.
Ian, the old ones will just snap off the old dash. It looks pretty good too. Just have to find a way to remove resin/Araldite from the existing brackets before I start reattaching everything to this one.
Then use something like a powered sander to sand the resin/glue off.
Ant
I ended up using Araldite. Trying to do it neatly didn't work, they just popped off with the slightest stress. Huge globs seems to be holding so far. Not pretty but it's on the back so nobody's ever going to see it ...
If it has to be done again though, I'll be sending it to someone who knows what they're doing - I made a right pig's ear of it.
If it has to be done again though, I'll be sending it to someone who knows what they're doing - I made a right pig's ear of it.
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