w124 '94 E220 Estate... what to look for
Discussion
Greatings from the dark side!
Just won a '94 E220 Estate Automatic off Ebay, one owner from new with full MB History thats done 120k, anything I should be looking for?
It has the standard rusty front wings which i intended to replace (am i best off sticking to genuine or are pattern ones a good fit/quality?)
Any tips welcome!
Just won a '94 E220 Estate Automatic off Ebay, one owner from new with full MB History thats done 120k, anything I should be looking for?
It has the standard rusty front wings which i intended to replace (am i best off sticking to genuine or are pattern ones a good fit/quality?)
Any tips welcome!
Get genuine wings if you can, if not then GSF ones seem pretty good.
Also try this chap - he's more Merc spares than you can shake a stick at
www.mercman.net
If its got full MBSH it should be reasonable but check it all adds up as these things hide clocking well.
Rust around rear wheelarches, bottom of rear windows (check loadspace carpet inside for damp as the seals on these rear windows can fail due to age - not difficult to replace, just fiddly)
Check oil pressure cold and warm.
Check auto box changes smoothly and doesn't flare.
Is rear suspension self level working ?
Clonks from front suspension mean it needs work - easily fixable but will cost.
Engine mounts are fluid filled and do fail.
Look for usual signs of headgasket failure.
Rear brake pipes are a common MOT failure due to rust.
Check electrics (windows etc) and central locking works on all doors.
Is tailgate self close function operative ?
Ensure the wiper cam mechanism works without sticking - these can fail and although the later ones can be stripped and repaired it is still an expensive job.
Good luck
Also try this chap - he's more Merc spares than you can shake a stick at
www.mercman.net
If its got full MBSH it should be reasonable but check it all adds up as these things hide clocking well.
Rust around rear wheelarches, bottom of rear windows (check loadspace carpet inside for damp as the seals on these rear windows can fail due to age - not difficult to replace, just fiddly)
Check oil pressure cold and warm.
Check auto box changes smoothly and doesn't flare.
Is rear suspension self level working ?
Clonks from front suspension mean it needs work - easily fixable but will cost.
Engine mounts are fluid filled and do fail.
Look for usual signs of headgasket failure.
Rear brake pipes are a common MOT failure due to rust.
Check electrics (windows etc) and central locking works on all doors.
Is tailgate self close function operative ?
Ensure the wiper cam mechanism works without sticking - these can fail and although the later ones can be stripped and repaired it is still an expensive job.
Good luck
Egbert Nobacon said:
Get genuine wings if you can, if not then GSF ones seem pretty good.
Also try this chap - he's more Merc spares than you can shake a stick at
www.mercman.net
.... Yep found him browsing today, looks useful!
If its got full MBSH it should be reasonable but check it all adds up as these things hide clocking well.
.... Supposed to be plenty of supporting paperwork, plus servicing dealer verifies
Rust around rear wheelarches, bottom of rear windows (check loadspace carpet inside for damp as the seals on these rear windows can fail due to age - not difficult to replace, just fiddly)
.... useful info
Check oil pressure cold and warm.
Check auto box changes smoothly and doesn't flare.
Is rear suspension self level working ?
.... any simple test?
Clonks from front suspension mean it needs work - easily fixable but will cost.
.... what sort of money we talking? (hopefully its fine!)
Engine mounts are fluid filled and do fail.
Look for usual signs of headgasket failure.
Rear brake pipes are a common MOT failure due to rust.
Check electrics (windows etc) and central locking works on all doors.
Is tailgate self close function operative ?
Is this like the BMW E39? ie sucks it in last 1cm?
Ensure the wiper cam mechanism works without sticking - these can fail and although the later ones can be stripped and repaired it is still an expensive job.
... will check
Many thanks Also try this chap - he's more Merc spares than you can shake a stick at
www.mercman.net
.... Yep found him browsing today, looks useful!
If its got full MBSH it should be reasonable but check it all adds up as these things hide clocking well.
.... Supposed to be plenty of supporting paperwork, plus servicing dealer verifies
Rust around rear wheelarches, bottom of rear windows (check loadspace carpet inside for damp as the seals on these rear windows can fail due to age - not difficult to replace, just fiddly)
.... useful info
Check oil pressure cold and warm.
Check auto box changes smoothly and doesn't flare.
Is rear suspension self level working ?
.... any simple test?
Clonks from front suspension mean it needs work - easily fixable but will cost.
.... what sort of money we talking? (hopefully its fine!)
Engine mounts are fluid filled and do fail.
Look for usual signs of headgasket failure.
Rear brake pipes are a common MOT failure due to rust.
Check electrics (windows etc) and central locking works on all doors.
Is tailgate self close function operative ?
Is this like the BMW E39? ie sucks it in last 1cm?
Ensure the wiper cam mechanism works without sticking - these can fail and although the later ones can be stripped and repaired it is still an expensive job.
... will check
In answer to your queries :
Rear Self Level -
Ride height maintained by hydraulic fluid and pumped to the rear by an engine mounted pump with fluid reservoir. Suspension movement achieved by gas filled sphere's
Two potential issues :
1. Leaking Sphere's - car will have an almost solid rear end with virtually no suspension travel.
2. Contaminated Hydraulic Fluid - usually engine oil has found its way into pump (quite rare) - self level won't work or is sluggish - get a fat bloke to sit in the back and then start the engine !
Also if you notice a slight self steer from the rear then you need rear suspension arm bushes replaced.
Front Suspension
Front outer suspension ball joints can seize - difficult to tell without taking wheel off, and some will pass MOT with this condition. GSF ball joints are under £20 from memory - not sure about labour cost to replace.
Front springs can break at the bottom - mainly on heavier 300/320 engined cars
Occasionally front anti roll bar brackets can fail - reinforced brackets may need welding on.
Tailgate Self Close - is as you describe. Many break due to people slamming the tailgate repeatedly which eventually breaks it, making closing difficult and are left because the unit is quite expensive
Wiper Cam If you intend keeping the car it will be worth dismantling this and cleaning it. They fill with crud and eventually seize/stick. Replacing a whole unit is c£600 and second hand bits are rare. As I said previously the later ones are not sealed units and can be repaired/cleaned and I do have a dismantling guide somewhere if you need it.
Also I didn't mention previously - any clunking when moving from forward to reverse gear can indicate worn rear diff mountings or prop couplings or both.
If the car has been maintained well many of the above should have been done or prevented along the way.
The only big bills these W124's really can throw up are:- broken ECU (c£500), failed autobox (not sure of costs) and head gasket failure (most common of the three) - up to a £1000 with a skim unless you strip it yourself.
Enjoy the car - they are great vehicles if maintained well.
Rear Self Level -
Ride height maintained by hydraulic fluid and pumped to the rear by an engine mounted pump with fluid reservoir. Suspension movement achieved by gas filled sphere's
Two potential issues :
1. Leaking Sphere's - car will have an almost solid rear end with virtually no suspension travel.
2. Contaminated Hydraulic Fluid - usually engine oil has found its way into pump (quite rare) - self level won't work or is sluggish - get a fat bloke to sit in the back and then start the engine !
Also if you notice a slight self steer from the rear then you need rear suspension arm bushes replaced.
Front Suspension
Front outer suspension ball joints can seize - difficult to tell without taking wheel off, and some will pass MOT with this condition. GSF ball joints are under £20 from memory - not sure about labour cost to replace.
Front springs can break at the bottom - mainly on heavier 300/320 engined cars
Occasionally front anti roll bar brackets can fail - reinforced brackets may need welding on.
Tailgate Self Close - is as you describe. Many break due to people slamming the tailgate repeatedly which eventually breaks it, making closing difficult and are left because the unit is quite expensive
Wiper Cam If you intend keeping the car it will be worth dismantling this and cleaning it. They fill with crud and eventually seize/stick. Replacing a whole unit is c£600 and second hand bits are rare. As I said previously the later ones are not sealed units and can be repaired/cleaned and I do have a dismantling guide somewhere if you need it.
Also I didn't mention previously - any clunking when moving from forward to reverse gear can indicate worn rear diff mountings or prop couplings or both.
If the car has been maintained well many of the above should have been done or prevented along the way.
The only big bills these W124's really can throw up are:- broken ECU (c£500), failed autobox (not sure of costs) and head gasket failure (most common of the three) - up to a £1000 with a skim unless you strip it yourself.
Enjoy the car - they are great vehicles if maintained well.
Edited by Egbert Nobacon on Wednesday 20th February 08:18
Edited by Egbert Nobacon on Wednesday 20th February 08:20
Egbert Nobacon said:
Wiper Cam If you intend keeping the car it will be worth dismantling this and cleaning it. They fill with crud and eventually seize/stick. Replacing a whole unit is c£600 and second hand bits are rare. As I said previously the later ones are not sealed units and can be repaired/cleaned and I do have a dismantling guide somewhere if you need it.
Yes please. A friend of mine has just bought a 300CE as an intended keeper - that sounds like a useful guide to have.
Well very impressed!
15 Supplying Main Dealer Stamps in the book..... recent invoices amounting a few thousand £'s over the last few years (he's been getting the full MB MD treatment with vasaline)
Interior is like a 2yr old car thats done 30k
Boot Self Close is fine, Wiper Cam is fine, Suspension appears fine to me, boot as dry as a bone, engine oil tight, auto fluid nice and red
Even got a nacamichi(sp)!!! period cd/tuner!
Just cover 160miles with ease
A tidy up with my paintshop and some 8 Hole wheels and she'll be mint
Thanks again for the pointers you gave Egbert
15 Supplying Main Dealer Stamps in the book..... recent invoices amounting a few thousand £'s over the last few years (he's been getting the full MB MD treatment with vasaline)
Interior is like a 2yr old car thats done 30k
Boot Self Close is fine, Wiper Cam is fine, Suspension appears fine to me, boot as dry as a bone, engine oil tight, auto fluid nice and red
Even got a nacamichi(sp)!!! period cd/tuner!
Just cover 160miles with ease
A tidy up with my paintshop and some 8 Hole wheels and she'll be mint
Thanks again for the pointers you gave Egbert
Mine has been sitting up for a few weeks now but I'm taking too the road in it this W/E.
I was waiting till the 1st of march to tax it plus the boot would not shut but I’m just after managing to fix it. I had ordered a new part from Mercman but after over 2 weeks and being told that it was in the post they finally coughed that they didn’t have one after all, not happy about that but hey it prompted me to fix the old one.
Anyway looking forward to getting the old girl out and off the drive.
I was waiting till the 1st of march to tax it plus the boot would not shut but I’m just after managing to fix it. I had ordered a new part from Mercman but after over 2 weeks and being told that it was in the post they finally coughed that they didn’t have one after all, not happy about that but hey it prompted me to fix the old one.
Anyway looking forward to getting the old girl out and off the drive.
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