Paint or wax oil
Discussion
Sorry, good ol chassis question.
What do you prefer, or what have you done?
Having painted/rustproofed 2 chassis in the past i know what a pig of a job it can be. The alternative is to just waxoil all over, but i prefer the chassis looking clean and painted rather than covered in gunk!
Really need to start the chassis (outriggers mainly) soon, but boy is it cold out there..
What do you prefer, or what have you done?
Having painted/rustproofed 2 chassis in the past i know what a pig of a job it can be. The alternative is to just waxoil all over, but i prefer the chassis looking clean and painted rather than covered in gunk!
Really need to start the chassis (outriggers mainly) soon, but boy is it cold out there..
I agree with the Rev.
+Remove all loose traces of rust and flakey powdercoating.
+Treat any areas of rust with a neutraliser
+Waxoyl in the hard to get to areas
+Paint easy to get to areas. I would cover any painted areas in clear waxoyl so you can see when rust starts to come back and you can act quickly on it.
+Remove all loose traces of rust and flakey powdercoating.
+Treat any areas of rust with a neutraliser
+Waxoyl in the hard to get to areas
+Paint easy to get to areas. I would cover any painted areas in clear waxoyl so you can see when rust starts to come back and you can act quickly on it.
I've always found a good going over with the wire brush drill attachment, getting it as clean as possible, then some sort of rust stopping chemical, twice, then clear wax oil. The trouble is with painting your always going to trap some rust in & it's going to be a while before you see it again. With clear waxoil I can see it straight away so I can blitz it. Usually takes 8-10 months of daily use before it needs doing again.
rev-erend said:
My weapon of choice is a brush attachment on an angle grinder.. gets down to the metal very quick without removing any metal.
Safety glasses and gloves essential..
Rather than a brush attachment, I use a Silicon Carbide attachment.Safety glasses and gloves essential..
About £7 each from Halfrauds, they are far more abrasive than a wire brush but will not eat into metal (but goes through rust like a knife through butter).
Only useable where access allows but a great attachment to have.
I agree with the wedgosi.
Remove as much rust as possible, then apply a rust convertor such as jenolite.
Then apply two coats of hammerite, followed by 2 thin coats of waxoil.
I did mine when I bought it 2 years ago. 6000 miles later I've just had to re-do a few patches on the tubes from the centre to the outriggers.
Remove as much rust as possible, then apply a rust convertor such as jenolite.
Then apply two coats of hammerite, followed by 2 thin coats of waxoil.
I did mine when I bought it 2 years ago. 6000 miles later I've just had to re-do a few patches on the tubes from the centre to the outriggers.
I noticed my front outriggers behind the front wheels are getting peppered with small stonechips which at some time will probably rust. When I get round to it I was going to clean up the paint work, probably local repaint (my chassis was stripped and painted before I got it) and then stick clear plastic stone chip decals over them, the stuff P*@#che used to stick on the turbo wheelarches - you can buy it by the sheet from 3M. Water repellant (duck oil, waxoyl etc.) is well worth it for other areas, a lot of chassis corrosion will be due to condensation rather than erosion of surface coatings.
remove loose, flaking paint / plastic coating, remove rust mechanically, paint it with some chemical rust-converter and than paint the chassis.
fingers away from waxoyl as it will absorb all the dust, after a certain kind of use the car will look awfull underneath.
another question: how you use your car? only summertime? or even wintertime with wet roads, salt...
if you are a winter-driver than it doessnt matter anymore what you use, as the "winter-driving" is mainly responsible for your rust problems now.
what also would help is to fit some protectors in front of the outtrigger to avoid the front wheel "blasting" all the dirt directly onto the chassis tubes.
i wonder why TVR never did something factorywise, even not on the later models e.g. chimaeras
fingers away from waxoyl as it will absorb all the dust, after a certain kind of use the car will look awfull underneath.
another question: how you use your car? only summertime? or even wintertime with wet roads, salt...
if you are a winter-driver than it doessnt matter anymore what you use, as the "winter-driving" is mainly responsible for your rust problems now.
what also would help is to fit some protectors in front of the outtrigger to avoid the front wheel "blasting" all the dirt directly onto the chassis tubes.
i wonder why TVR never did something factorywise, even not on the later models e.g. chimaeras
Comadis said:
remove loose, flaking paint / plastic coating, remove rust mechanically, paint it with some chemical rust-converter and than paint the chassis.
fingers away from waxoyl as it will absorb all the dust, after a certain kind of use the car will look awfull underneath.
another question: how you use your car? only summertime? or even wintertime with wet roads, salt...
if you are a winter-driver than it doessnt matter anymore what you use, as the "winter-driving" is mainly responsible for your rust problems now.
what also would help is to fit some protectors in front of the outtrigger to avoid the front wheel "blasting" all the dirt directly onto the chassis tubes.
i wonder why TVR never did something factorywise, even not on the later models e.g. chimaeras
I only ever use my car as a 2nd car in the summer time.fingers away from waxoyl as it will absorb all the dust, after a certain kind of use the car will look awfull underneath.
another question: how you use your car? only summertime? or even wintertime with wet roads, salt...
if you are a winter-driver than it doessnt matter anymore what you use, as the "winter-driving" is mainly responsible for your rust problems now.
what also would help is to fit some protectors in front of the outtrigger to avoid the front wheel "blasting" all the dirt directly onto the chassis tubes.
i wonder why TVR never did something factorywise, even not on the later models e.g. chimaeras
I have almost finished the chassis now. 3 solid days work, and i have removed all loose paint & rust, followed by 2 coats of hammerite.
All that remains is to squirt some clear waxoil in the hard to get places, particularly behind the front wheel where the outriggers and corner plate is.
Phew, pleasing to finish..but, glad it's done.
Edited by Waynester on Friday 22 February 12:32
Comadis said:
fertan is perfect. used it in the past on my alfa romeos...b4 i switched to british cars...
but never did any rust prove to my wedge...as it still has 100% of its original powder-coating.
Wow! Must be good if it can beat Alfa rust. I'll have to get some of that then!but never did any rust prove to my wedge...as it still has 100% of its original powder-coating.
FWIW :- My protection system includes wire brush (angle grinder mounted) down to bare metal, two coats of Smotherite and then Wax oil a few weeks later when the Smotherite has had time to cure fully.
Note that the curing process for smotherite is critical so follow all the instructions on the tin to the letter!
zcar said:
leorest said:
Where the powder coat is still sticking I'm just wax-oiling.
Doesnt that give it somewhat of a patchwork quilt look??Our powder coating is a lovely shade of light blue!!!!
Nick
Edited by zcar on Sunday 24th February 18:31
Some of my Powder coat has come off in parts - I have used Fertan on the exposed areas before painting over with Hammerite. IMO it doesn't have to look pretty so long as it does the job especially in my case where everything is boring black!! I may have had a different opionion if my chasis was red, yellow or white as I have seen elsewhere - but black - who cares!!
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