Rear suspension A frame 350

[convert]

OK chaps, I've just replaced the springs on the wedge, and I've noticed some uneven tyre wear on the rear's (inner edges). Checking the toe in it seems to be far too much.

I've freed up the inner adjuster nut on the front, inboard mounting on the A frame, but I don't have a spanner big enough to adjust the big nut at the back of the mounting. Does anybody have any idea what size it is?


Also is it easy enough to remove the driveshaft from the brake disk end. Do I need to remove the hub to do this? (I'm wanting to put some camber adjustment shims in).

An help would be appreciated.

[djc1001]

Hi,
Three spanners req'd to adjust toe.
1/2 unf nut is same as wheel nut.
Big lock nut - big adjustable
Flats on adjuster barrel - spanner needs to be thinish and is circa 22mm (can't get exact measure)

Remember when you take 'toe off' you also increase neg. camber as you are lengthening the lower wishbone.

To add shims - remove 4 drive shaft nuts (7/16 unf) loosen lower bolts on hub remove one end of tie bar - put some padding on the wishbone, when pulling the drive shaft of hub - it comes off suddenly and drops onto wishbone (or your hand).
Need new self locking nuts for drive shaft as nylocks melt.

hope this helps
David

[convert]

Cheers David. My adjustable only goes up to 25mm so I guess I'm going to need a new one. I don't really like using adjustables though.

I've already ordered a couple of packs of shims from a Jag specialist (45p each shim).

[BrianTVR350]

Steve,

slightly O/T but where did you buy the shims? I'm planning a diff out job to change the rear disks and need lots of shims.. (How much?, genuine Yorkshire war cry!)

Regards,

Brian (and a Red 350i)

[convert]

BrianTVR350 said:

Steve,

slightly O/T but where did you buy the shims? I'm planning a diff out job to change the rear disks and need lots of shims.. (How much?, genuine Yorkshire war cry!)

Regards,

Brian (and a Red 350i)

Got them from http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/webapp/wcs/store...

Called Glynn on 01865 381193. They come in packs of 10.

Just need to go to the gym a bit more now to build up my arm stength to undo the bl00dy nuts.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

you may want to get a steve heath rear bolt set, and replace all the bolts while you are at it.
esp as you may need to cut some off.

you don't need to undo the large hub nut, you can leave this connected to the carrier, and just remove the suspension.

[convert]

Cheers Leigh. I was hoping to remove the tie bar from the hub, and just remove the 4 driveshaft to diff bolts, and then 'wiggle' the driveshaft free from the inboard end.

Might have to subscribe to the Charles Atlas body building school just to get the 4 bl00dy nuts of though

[GV]

I getting ready to do the same job I plan to get SH's bolts and tie rods, new disks, shocks & springs...

[ed_crouch]

GV, I've nearly finished the article. Been a bit busier than I thought this week, but Im nearly there!

Convert, if youve got beefy driveshafts like on the 390se and onwards (and some 350s i think), you will probably need to angle driveshaft away from the nut youre getting at, otherwise the damn socket (11/16AF on the 7/16UNF studs) wont go on cos the inboard UJ yokes get in the way. Impact wrench is good here if youve got one, but you might need to use 3/8 socketry instead of 1/2 inch (thinner walls), so it might need to be a GOOD quality socket, depending on how seized the nuts are.

Ed.

Edited by ed_crouch on Thursday 21st February 15:47

[djc1001]

quote djc1001 said

Three spanners req'd to adjust toe.
1/2 unf nut is same as wheel nut.
Big lock nut - big adjustable
Flats on adjuster barrel - spanner needs to be thinish and is circa 22mm (can't get exact measure)

---

Had quick measure today - adjuster barrel is 20mm (thin) and large lock nut is approx 37mm.

David

[convert]

Cheers Ed, You're right they are the bigger UJ's and space is a bit tight. I can get my 1/2" socket set on, but only with a stubby extension bar (Ratchet head is too big). Might take it to my cousins garage and stick it up on the 4 poster, and then attack it with air tools

[convert]

Well, Managed to get it on the ramp yesterday, and even with a 6 foot piece of pipe the large locknuts on the A frame wouldn't move.

Had to use the ole' blue spanner to heat em up, then the 6 foot piece of pipe to loosen them

Driveshaft to disc nuts came off with a deep 18mm socket and an air gun, but we had to fiddle a bit to get past the yokes.



Made sure everything was pretty free and put some copper grease on the adjusters... Just need to get the alignment setup now.