Discussion
Hi there
I'm hoping to remove my diff this weekend from a 1993 500.
I've got the drive shafts off and having a quick look around it appears that the diff is wider than the gap between the chassis rails.
Am I going to be able to get it out easily - I should like to lower it on a jack ???
Also the mounts look pretty difficult to get at - particularly the top one - any handy hints on what I should be doing ?
Please please dont tell me i've got to take the body off
cheers Andy
I'm hoping to remove my diff this weekend from a 1993 500.
I've got the drive shafts off and having a quick look around it appears that the diff is wider than the gap between the chassis rails.
Am I going to be able to get it out easily - I should like to lower it on a jack ???
Also the mounts look pretty difficult to get at - particularly the top one - any handy hints on what I should be doing ?
Please please dont tell me i've got to take the body off

cheers Andy
did this job on my own a couple of months ago, getting it out isn`t to difficult, its putting it back thats the problem, again did this on my own but used 2 ratchet straps, put these under the diff, one front on at the back and fastened off to the top chassis rails, lift away, then lower the back one to position it when its up in the chassis, takes some doing but not to bad.
I've done it a couple of times on my own. It is certainly one reason I have a preference for ramps - axle stands just get in the way.... I did need careful manipulation with 2 trolley jacks assisting the 'jiggling'. I am not a Gorilla by any means and managed without undue stress/strain. Resting the nose of the diff on the front xmember and pushing it forward a little helps, clearances are less if you have the larger fins at the back it seems.
Dave
Dave
As said it does come out when you find the correct orientation, would imagine this to be rather challenging working on axle stands. I borrowed a lift at a local garage for the day to swap mine. It was useful to have a second pair of hands arround when putting it back.
When it goes back don’t assume (as I did ) that you can simply bolt the speed sensor bracket back on and it will be in the right place. I made this error and ground the end away before realising what the noise was.
When it goes back don’t assume (as I did ) that you can simply bolt the speed sensor bracket back on and it will be in the right place. I made this error and ground the end away before realising what the noise was.
spend said:
Early chassis (Ant came across the prob as well) leave the bushes floating, they rely only on captivating the inner race, but with poly you have to somehow prevent the plastic moving fore/aft.
Dave
I ended up getting some that were quite near and getting them machined to suit.Dave
Think they were some ford bush.
spend said:
AntonyJ said:
I ended up getting some that were quite near and getting them machined to suit.
Think they were some ford bush.
Don't understand Ant, I thought you were going to use washers/plates to retain them? You are talking about poly ones...Think they were some ford bush.
Dave
ked off trying to get them machined whilst frozen, back to metalastic now.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



turn it through 90degs, so the drive shaft flanges are pointing up/down instead of left/right. Then the rear can be lowered out, drop this downwards and then the nose can be drawn out last of all. It is essential the car is high enough to do this BTW.
did this on a 97 500, bloody nightmare, on axle stands,if you like your knuckles and value your own time get a garage to do it!!

