Bloody megasquirt
Discussion
GreenV8S said:
What sort of sensor are you using? Are you getting a signal off the sensor?
all the trigger wheel stuff came from here.http://trigger-wheels.com/store/index1.html
Edited by cazzer on Tuesday 26th February 22:49
OK, that will be a VR sensor. 1v peak to peak isn't a great deal, what is your cranking speed? Slow speeds are the hardest thing for a sensor to pick up so if it is cold and your battery is low then you may not get a good enough signal to pick up.
In terms of sensor alignment you need it to be within 1mm of the teeth of the wheel and you need to have the wheel centered to 0.25mm of runout as a guide. If you have a scope hooked up you should be able to see the missing tooth and if the wheel is off center then that will show up as a variance in height between the peaks.
Another thing to check is that the sensor is wired up the right way round, if in doubt try swapping the wires over and seeing if it fires up.
In terms of sensor alignment you need it to be within 1mm of the teeth of the wheel and you need to have the wheel centered to 0.25mm of runout as a guide. If you have a scope hooked up you should be able to see the missing tooth and if the wheel is off center then that will show up as a variance in height between the peaks.
Another thing to check is that the sensor is wired up the right way round, if in doubt try swapping the wires over and seeing if it fires up.
boosty said:
OK, that will be a VR sensor. 1v peak to peak isn't a great deal, what is your cranking speed? Slow speeds are the hardest thing for a sensor to pick up so if it is cold and your battery is low then you may not get a good enough signal to pick up.
In terms of sensor alignment you need it to be within 1mm of the teeth of the wheel and you need to have the wheel centered to 0.25mm of runout as a guide. If you have a scope hooked up you should be able to see the missing tooth and if the wheel is off center then that will show up as a variance in height between the peaks.
Another thing to check is that the sensor is wired up the right way round, if in doubt try swapping the wires over and seeing if it fires up.
I have tried three different VR sensors, set at a distance of 1mm down to the thickness of a sheet of A4 (thus proving the wheel in centred pretty well In terms of sensor alignment you need it to be within 1mm of the teeth of the wheel and you need to have the wheel centered to 0.25mm of runout as a guide. If you have a scope hooked up you should be able to see the missing tooth and if the wheel is off center then that will show up as a variance in height between the peaks.
Another thing to check is that the sensor is wired up the right way round, if in doubt try swapping the wires over and seeing if it fires up.
)I can see the missing tooth in the scope trace.
I've tried it with the sensor connected both ways round.
I dont know what the crank speed is as the crank sensor isn't being picked up by the ecu
I've tried with a fully charges battery and jump leads onto another car at the same time.
I really can't see what I'm doing wrong.
Does the MS have to control the fuel pump?
Edited by cazzer on Wednesday 27th February 08:37
You can turn on onboard logging within the ECU which enables you to see the tooth timing. This would tell you whether it was picking up anything at all from the crank sensor. If this setup has never run I'd be inclined to suspect either the firmware or the ECU hardware is wrongly configured. Did you assemble it yourself, configure it yourself?
Right....one at a time.
Wiring seems ok. I've even tried a couple of different wires. Its a shielded cable too.
I didnt build it myself, I bought it built. It's been back to them to test, but of course, they just plug in the stim thing and it works. So they say its functioning.
It's firmware revision J I think (i'm not in a position to go look at the mo).
The ecu and software revision match.
I configured it but I've gone through the config over the phone with the supplier and he can't see anything incorrect.
It's using in built coil drivers. Not Edis. (I would have probably gone the edis route but I havent enough room under the bonnet).
If I select the real time display option from the menu (apologies if I'm not getting the names exact here, I'm doing this from memory at the mo), it shows 0 on the rpm and doesn't register as cranking at all.
Every other sensor seems to be registering fine. Oil, water, lambda etc.
Oh, its on a Rover V8.
I live in a pretty bit of the world if anyone wants board and lodging for a weekend
Wiring seems ok. I've even tried a couple of different wires. Its a shielded cable too.
I didnt build it myself, I bought it built. It's been back to them to test, but of course, they just plug in the stim thing and it works. So they say its functioning.
It's firmware revision J I think (i'm not in a position to go look at the mo).
The ecu and software revision match.
I configured it but I've gone through the config over the phone with the supplier and he can't see anything incorrect.
It's using in built coil drivers. Not Edis. (I would have probably gone the edis route but I havent enough room under the bonnet).
If I select the real time display option from the menu (apologies if I'm not getting the names exact here, I'm doing this from memory at the mo), it shows 0 on the rpm and doesn't register as cranking at all.
Every other sensor seems to be registering fine. Oil, water, lambda etc.
Oh, its on a Rover V8.
I live in a pretty bit of the world if anyone wants board and lodging for a weekend
cazzer said:
Right....one at a time.
Wiring seems ok. I've even tried a couple of different wires. Its a shielded cable too.
I didnt build it myself, I bought it built. It's been back to them to test, but of course, they just plug in the stim thing and it works. So they say its functioning.
It's firmware revision J I think (i'm not in a position to go look at the mo).
The ecu and software revision match.
I configured it but I've gone through the config over the phone with the supplier and he can't see anything incorrect.
Assume that it isn't resetting (reset count on MegaTune). I'd be inclined to disconnect the coil[s] anyway because it's possible to fry them if it's configured wrong.Wiring seems ok. I've even tried a couple of different wires. Its a shielded cable too.
I didnt build it myself, I bought it built. It's been back to them to test, but of course, they just plug in the stim thing and it works. So they say its functioning.
It's firmware revision J I think (i'm not in a position to go look at the mo).
The ecu and software revision match.
I configured it but I've gone through the config over the phone with the supplier and he can't see anything incorrect.
There's an option you can turn on to record the tooth times from the crank sensor. This requires a configuration change in megaTune, which provides access to an extra page under Tools/TableEditor which gets filled up with tooth timing data when the engine is turning. If it's picking up any signal at all, this'll show something even if it isn't getting a complete lock sufficient to determine engine speed. I don't remember the option off hand (and I find this sort of stuff very hard to track down in the online docs) but I'll keep digging.
I breathed a huge sigh of relief when I got the toothed wheel settings done on mine because it's stupidly complicated and none of the explanations I've seen described what was actually happening. It might help if you described the toothed wheel setup and listed all the toothed wheel settings and cranking configuration. Highly unlikely I'll spot any problem but somebody else might. Also consider asking for help on the MegaSquirt forums if you haven't already. That's where you'll find the guys who know what they're doing.
GreenV8S said:
cazzer said:
Right....one at a time.
Wiring seems ok. I've even tried a couple of different wires. Its a shielded cable too.
I didnt build it myself, I bought it built. It's been back to them to test, but of course, they just plug in the stim thing and it works. So they say its functioning.
It's firmware revision J I think (i'm not in a position to go look at the mo).
The ecu and software revision match.
I configured it but I've gone through the config over the phone with the supplier and he can't see anything incorrect.
Assume that it isn't resetting (reset count on MegaTune). I'd be inclined to disconnect the coil[s] anyway because it's possible to fry them if it's configured wrong.Wiring seems ok. I've even tried a couple of different wires. Its a shielded cable too.
I didnt build it myself, I bought it built. It's been back to them to test, but of course, they just plug in the stim thing and it works. So they say its functioning.
It's firmware revision J I think (i'm not in a position to go look at the mo).
The ecu and software revision match.
I configured it but I've gone through the config over the phone with the supplier and he can't see anything incorrect.
There's an option you can turn on to record the tooth times from the crank sensor. This requires a configuration change in megaTune, which provides access to an extra page under Tools/TableEditor which gets filled up with tooth timing data when the engine is turning. If it's picking up any signal at all, this'll show something even if it isn't getting a complete lock sufficient to determine engine speed. I don't remember the option off hand (and I find this sort of stuff very hard to track down in the online docs) but I'll keep digging.
I breathed a huge sigh of relief when I got the toothed wheel settings done on mine because it's stupidly complicated and none of the explanations I've seen described what was actually happening. It might help if you described the toothed wheel setup and listed all the toothed wheel settings and cranking configuration. Highly unlikely I'll spot any problem but somebody else might. Also consider asking for help on the MegaSquirt forums if you haven't already. That's where you'll find the guys who know what they're doing.
I'll dig out the settings and do some more fiddling tomorrow.
One possibility is that the megasquirt is set up for a tacho/hall effect sensor rather than a VR sensor. Your supplier should have checked this at your point of order.
Out of interest who did you buy from? Phil at www.extraefi.co.uk and Bill Shurvinton tend to be exceedingly helpful.
Out of interest who did you buy from? Phil at www.extraefi.co.uk and Bill Shurvinton tend to be exceedingly helpful.
eliot said:
And to you are sure that the 12v source to megasquuirt is live when cranking? Many circuits actually go dead during cranking to give as much power to the starter.
Yeah, checked that one too.I won't get chance to look at this til saturday, but any other suggestions are more than welcome.
neal1980 said:
Ive gone the same route on my Chimaera. Im directly driving the coils and It all seems to run sweet. If you send me your settings I can compare the settings to mine. What coil packs are you using btw?
Are you serpentine or pre?
Regards
Neal
Serpentine.Are you serpentine or pre?
Regards
Neal
I'll post all the setting etc up here on saturday afternoon
Thanks guys.
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