Otter Switch

[AM400]

Anyone know what the otter switch and rubber grommet are from?

Removed the rad today, one of the worst jobs I have had to do on the 400, that includes removing the A frame bushes! I am two minds wether to blank the hole off during the recon of the rad and fit an adjustable switch in the top hose, try and source a replacement or push the boat out and go for an ally rad.

The cheapest option is preferable at the moment due to the impending purchase of stainless manifolds and a system.

Cheers

[rev-erend]

Totally agree with you - it's a git of a job to replace.

It's probably a Land Rover part as it a LR rad.

I used a Revotec switch unit that fits in the top hose - you can adjust the temp it switches on at - which is a nice feature, it's about 60 notes and you can get them on Ebay or demon tweeks do them too..

[Grady]

Or, have your radiator shop blank the hole (assuming it is in the almost-un-accessible side) and add a standard threaded fitting to some more accessible point.

IIRC - mine is now at about the the same height but facing into the engine bay so the original wiring fit and it's easily replaceable. Grady

[tempus]

Early ones are Austin princess (87-82 degrees) this one has a domed bottom also used in MGB,1975-79,Rover number BHM7287 or URP1126 ,if yours has a flat bottom post a pic or any details.Tempus

[jmorgan]

I went the revotec way as well. It was an arse having to deal with that switch when the grommet leaked. Kept the wiring as that can be used with a switch to override the fans.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

AM400 said:

Anyone know what the otter switch and rubber grommet are from?

Removed the rad today, one of the worst jobs I have had to do on the 400, that includes removing the A frame bushes! I am two minds wether to blank the hole off during the recon of the rad and fit an adjustable switch in the top hose, try and source a replacement or push the boat out and go for an ally rad.

The cheapest option is preferable at the moment due to the impending purchase of stainless manifolds and a system.

Cheers

Well the LR rad's did not have the otter switch in the rad. that's a TVR mod.

as said blank it off and fit a tapped one like the griff / chim

on mine it did not have a rubber grommet, it was just a press fit.
Mine did not leak from the otter tho. but it had got a leak in the core, So I replaced it with a Ali one.

I had to mod a Griff one to fit. but if you send your current rad to radtech they will make you a ali one the same as your's.

If you do this make sure you send the side brackets and oil cooler brackets, to make sure these still fit. after. as the side brackets do not fit the griff Ali Rad, even though they are the same design, but due to the ali ones being bigger they brackets don't fit.

you also need to get 2 replacment fan if you go this way.

Do a search, and you see a post about me fitting mine.


On a side note not sure why you have to remove the A frame bushes!, as I did not have too.

[AM400]

Thanks for the replies all, you can never ask for the wrong thing on here!

I think I may well go along the Revotech route as per Rev and Jeff. Thats some useful info supplied by Tempus.
Leigh, saw your ally rad post, nice but out of the question at the moment, its the fans that kill it off!

A frame bushes were just a comparison of a pig of a job!

Cheers

[AM400]

Forgot to add, what do the oil cooler brackets look like then? My cooler is bolted directly to the plywood behind the rad, bolts going into the light pod cavity.

[rev-erend]

They are essentially "L" shaped pieces of steel.

It mounts to the top and bottom of the rad - the top bolts beings absolute gits to get in and out..

Thank the lord for rachet spanners and also thanks TVR for the wisdom on putting a big hole for your arms to go thru behind the front number plate (on the SEAC - don't know about other wedges) It could be these bolt holes are not on your rad hence mounting to a piece of wood.

[jmorgan]

Re cooler fixings. I just lay there under the car and get them loose enough to fiddle with. The old bolts I had were a tad rusty so replaced them and because they were such an arse to get at, left them a tad too long and added washers so they did not go so deep into the rad. I did cut one but could not get the thread to take. And used locking washers and copper grease.

There is a hole behind the number plate on mine but never used it. It meant re fixing the number plate that was stuck on and I could put up with a little hassle the other way.