Hub Nuts & Bearing Seals
Discussion
Hi guys,
I'm looking to replace the hub nuts on the 350. My local fastener stockist thinks the nuts are M22 x 1.25 pitch does anyone know if this is the case? Does anyone have experience of the steel locking nut instead of the nyloc - i'm told it is better.
Also to add insult to injury the guy that put the seals back in the hub carriers has put them in back to front me thinks - steel to the outside - rubber in.
I need to get my hands on four of these - does anyone know a source and does anyone know how far they should be inserted
Cheers
Shaun
I'm looking to replace the hub nuts on the 350. My local fastener stockist thinks the nuts are M22 x 1.25 pitch does anyone know if this is the case? Does anyone have experience of the steel locking nut instead of the nyloc - i'm told it is better.
Also to add insult to injury the guy that put the seals back in the hub carriers has put them in back to front me thinks - steel to the outside - rubber in.
I need to get my hands on four of these - does anyone know a source and does anyone know how far they should be inserted

Cheers
Shaun
Pilo-Wedgebits said:
...Does anyone have experience of the steel locking nut instead of the nyloc - i'm told it is better...
If you find where to get some metal lock-nuts let me know. This style of lock-nut is used on the inboard end of the driveshaft because the heat from the brakes would melt Nylon. I believe that in aviation applications Ny-lock would be considered as one use and discard whereas an all metal (deformed thread) self locking nut can be re-used many times so long as increased resistance is felt upon re-assembly. Personally I use this philosophy with Ny-locks which means they tend to get discarded after half a dozen uses or less whereas an all metal version would last me a lifetime.From memory the all metal lock nuts go under trade names like Aero-tight and K-lock not sure of the spelling though.
FWIW For hub nuts (and bearing in mind the repercussions of auto-disassembly/destruction/death) I currently use Nylocks with the addition of a low grade liquid thread-lock applied to just a few scrupulously cleaned threads. I have bitter experience of using too much thread-lock and what a complete bleep of a job it was to undo! I would very much like to upgrade to all metal lock-nuts with the same liquid thread-lock scheme.
Pilo-Wedgebits said:
Hi Tempus,
The thing that puzzles me with metal out is that this opens up the spring / spring seat in the seal to the outside world whereas rubber out = complete seal
Note sure re. term 'metal out' but the lip / seal / wire faces in - both sides. Primary use is to keep the grease in but also cr*p outThe thing that puzzles me with metal out is that this opens up the spring / spring seat in the seal to the outside world whereas rubber out = complete seal
NOt sure about nut spec. I bought new nylocks from RT. Metal locks tend to be longer there may not be enough thread.
r's
David
leorest said:
rev-erend said:
...Also just take the old nut along to an automotive nut specialist .. luckily I found a really good one near me (Guildford).
That's not Margnor is it? How much were they?I've not taken a hub nut to them yet but have never failed me for any other odd nuts and bolts I take down there..
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