rear suspension
Discussion
Time to show off my toy again 
You need one of these, any decent local machine shop will make one up for you. Takes about ten minutes per bush to get them out. No heat, no drilling, no hacksawing. Just pop it on, tighten it up a bit and then tap it. Repeat to fade
They are an absolute doddle to get out 
Works on the bench and on the car... Will even get the lower rear hub carrier ones out if you use a long bar and assert the force across both lower bushes at the same time.
Who needs CAD when you have ingenuity on your side
I'm supposed to be writing this up properly but in the meantime this might help if you can see it. If anyone can do a proper CAD drawing so that others can benefit in future that would be brilliant.
Top tips!
1)Use high tensile threaded bar, not normal mild steel. You'll need at least 1M and maybe more as it can strip the threads occasionally. You will also need a few new M10 nuts! Cut off about 300mm and use this as it saves running the nuts excessive distances.
2)Liberally grease the threads and keep them clean to prevent 1).
3)You're not trying to just push the bushes out, the tool applies compression then you use a bit of percussion to loosen them. it's a combination of forces that shifts them.
4)Although the tool pretty much self aligns it is important to ensure all the force is going into the bush and not the wishbone itself! (see point 1)
5)To remove the lower hub carrier bushes use a long piece of M10 HTS and thread it through both bushes then fit the tool on the outside and press the bushes inwards one at a time. This is because the outer part of the tool fouls the inside of the hub carrier. (Makes sense when you're actually doing it)
ETA:
I can't dimension the chamfer properly because I can't find my engineering protractor
I do know it waists down to leave a 3mm flat surface to press against the wishbone and extends 8mm. Any Pythagoras experts about?
I'm supposed to be writing this up properly but in the meantime this might help if you can see it. If anyone can do a proper CAD drawing so that others can benefit in future that would be brilliant.
Top tips!
1)Use high tensile threaded bar, not normal mild steel. You'll need at least 1M and maybe more as it can strip the threads occasionally. You will also need a few new M10 nuts! Cut off about 300mm and use this as it saves running the nuts excessive distances.
2)Liberally grease the threads and keep them clean to prevent 1).
3)You're not trying to just push the bushes out, the tool applies compression then you use a bit of percussion to loosen them. it's a combination of forces that shifts them.
4)Although the tool pretty much self aligns it is important to ensure all the force is going into the bush and not the wishbone itself! (see point 1)
5)To remove the lower hub carrier bushes use a long piece of M10 HTS and thread it through both bushes then fit the tool on the outside and press the bushes inwards one at a time. This is because the outer part of the tool fouls the inside of the hub carrier. (Makes sense when you're actually doing it)
ETA:
I can't dimension the chamfer properly because I can't find my engineering protractor
I do know it waists down to leave a 3mm flat surface to press against the wishbone and extends 8mm. Any Pythagoras experts about? Edited by TheGriffalo on Tuesday 4th March 10:46
TheGriffalo said:
Time to show off my toy again You need one of these, any decent local machine shop will make one up for you. Takes about ten minutes per bush to get them out. No heat, no drilling, no hacksawing. Just pop it on, tighten it up a bit and then tap it. Repeat to fade
They are an absolute doddle to get out Works on the bench and on the car... Will even get the lower rear hub carrier ones out if you use a long bar and assert the force across both lower bushes at the same time.
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