how removing the lambdas
how removing the lambdas
Author
Discussion

hermi500

Original Poster:

14 posts

226 months

Monday 10th March 2008
quotequote all
Hello,

what is the trick to remove the lambdas? The connector has a greater diameter then the hex to remove the lambdas. must i disassemble the connector or does i need a special tool?

Hermann

paulathome

686 posts

249 months

Monday 10th March 2008
quotequote all
The best way is to remove the connector with a very thin screw driver.
First dig out the brown bung that is at the back of the connector where the wires go in.
Then, from the front of the connector look down the shell and you will see the barbs which hold the crimp into the body of the connector. Push these gently in against the pin with a small screw driver as you pull the wire from the back. The wire should then pull out of the shell with the crimp.
Do this with all 3 wires (first noting the location of each wire in relation to the other and the plug body ident pip)
This will then allow a socket to be slid over the wires (17mm deep throat) and the sensor to be removed with a pair of grips round the socket.
Sounds complicated but only takes about ten minuits.
When the wires are inserted back into the plug shell they should just push in and click into position.
Job done. (or go and buy the correct tool from who knows where)
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Paul


Edited by paulathome on Monday 10th March 21:33


Edited by paulathome on Monday 10th March 21:35

hermi500

Original Poster:

14 posts

226 months

Monday 10th March 2008
quotequote all
Now it is clear. Thank you Paul!

Are there a special gasket needed for reassembling the lambdas in the mainfolds?

Johno

8,593 posts

313 months

Monday 10th March 2008
quotequote all
The easiest way to take out the lambda's is buy a 17mm box spanner or deep socket and cut a groove up the side for the wires and undo accordingly. Made one myself from a dep socket, took 10mins and not that they will ever go back in the exhaust, but if they were i wouldn't have to mes about with electrical connectors which seem to get weaker each time you muck about with them.

StreetDragster

1,575 posts

249 months

Tuesday 11th March 2008
quotequote all
Grinding a 17mm deep socket is the route i took too, like you say very quick and easy (Assuming you have an angle grinder to hand!)

Matt

TPO

74 posts

263 months

Tuesday 11th March 2008
quotequote all
http://www.cats-direct-shop.co.uk/lambda-sensors.p...
or http://stores.ebay.co.uk/T-P-GROUP

Get the proper socket for £5 and at £20 for the sensor its not worth putting the old ones back. It seems to me that the £100+ the garages charge for a sensor is because different makes of car have different connectors. With the universal ones you retain the old connector and fit it to the new sensor with the supplied crimp connectors.

More info at http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/oxygen_senso...

Cheers
Trevor

Johno

8,593 posts

313 months

Tuesday 11th March 2008
quotequote all
StreetDragster said:
Grinding a 17mm deep socket is the route i took too, like you say very quick and easy (Assuming you have an angle grinder to hand!)

Matt
Did mine with a 5mm drill and a hand saw. Drill the hole near the top, and then hack saw down, still only took 10mins . .

hermi500

Original Poster:

14 posts

226 months

Tuesday 11th March 2008
quotequote all
Hello Trevor,

thanks for the very interesting link.

I want to remove and reassemble the lambdas because it is necessary to grind the mainfold flange to the cylinder head. It has about 0.5mm difference between the highest and the deepest point. The lambdas working very well and normaly it is not necessary to buy new ones.

I think the three wire model in your first link is the right one. But the original lambdas have black, red and white wires. The shown lambda with three wires has no red one? Are you sure it is possible to use it and it doesn't matter how to connect the two white ones?
May be the white is also ground for the sensor in the original lambdas?

Hermann

blitzracing

6,422 posts

251 months

Wednesday 12th March 2008
quotequote all
The red is the heater supply wire, as the 2 wire sensors dont have this and take longer to warm up.

Mark

blitzracing

6,422 posts

251 months

Wednesday 12th March 2008
quotequote all
The white is ground and black is the signal.