Which steering tie rod ends?
Discussion
I replaced the hubs on the Griff this week, and because I smacked the rubber on one of the steering tie rod ends with the hammer and split it I bought a pair to replace them.
I bought offset ones (MK IV Escort I think they said, or MK III) because that is what I had in my hand from the offside.
Only when I came to do the nearside and the damned thing isn't offset
So the car looked like this
NS HUB ------ STEERING RACK -----¬ OS HUB
Now I've got a pair of offset ones on the car, so both are like the offside (only reversed for the NS obviously but I dont have a mirror of ¬ on my keyboard
)
When I realised I had odd ends on I started to have a look around and found the one on the Offside has a L on it and Nearside has an R.
Question time then;

Probably the same tit who thought it OK to twist the wiring together for my indicator and alarm
I bought offset ones (MK IV Escort I think they said, or MK III) because that is what I had in my hand from the offside.
Only when I came to do the nearside and the damned thing isn't offset

So the car looked like this
NS HUB ------ STEERING RACK -----¬ OS HUB
Now I've got a pair of offset ones on the car, so both are like the offside (only reversed for the NS obviously but I dont have a mirror of ¬ on my keyboard
)When I realised I had odd ends on I started to have a look around and found the one on the Offside has a L on it and Nearside has an R.
Question time then;
- Does this change the geometry (concensus is no, because the pivot point at the hub is the same)
- Does it make any difference other than for possible wheel clearance - which I don't have a problem with.
- Does it matter that I may have Left and Right on the wrong way around if I believe the L and R stamped on them?

Probably the same tit who thought it OK to twist the wiring together for my indicator and alarm

Edited by Barreti on Thursday 13th March 01:02
I used Lockheed AP part No TA687.
I can't see the need for cranked ones, the rack sits a little higher than the wishbones? Same as the rest of the geo having the rack at full extent (level) when neutral, and shortening (toe in) on deflection seems logical. I would guess having cranked TRE's would influence this detrimentally.
Dave
I can't see the need for cranked ones, the rack sits a little higher than the wishbones? Same as the rest of the geo having the rack at full extent (level) when neutral, and shortening (toe in) on deflection seems logical. I would guess having cranked TRE's would influence this detrimentally.
Dave
spend said:
I used Lockheed AP part No TA687
Thanks for the info Dave. These were from Parkers and have their part numbers on them - FTR4414 and FTR4415spend said:
The rack sits a little higher than the wishbones?

spend said:
Same as the rest of the geo having the rack at full extent (level) when neutral, and shortening (toe in) on deflection seems logical. I would guess having cranked TRE's would influence this detrimentally.
I think I see what you're getting at Dave - sort of.Would this be to the detriment of how it feels, or only visible on tyre wear?
Are the Lockheed parts not cranked then? so like -O rather than ¬
I'll have a look tomorrow at the old parts to see if I can find numbers on them. Don't remember seeing anything though.
Edited by Barreti on Thursday 13th March 01:13
No the ones I got were not cranked Ian, the track rods line up with the ball joint (kind of inline above the hub connection - but they are also level when the wishbone is level). The arcs should add camber and toe as the wishbones move up or down away from the neutral position (level) - this will be different geometrically if they are cranked?
Dave
Dave
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