Whats the best oil?
Discussion
the one thats chosen with special consideration for the grade used (e.g. 5/30, whatever) rather the brand.
Pick the right grade oil for your engine, an older / more worn engine will better suit a thicker grade.
secondly, pick a cheap brand you can afford to change regularly rather than an expensive brand that you'll change rarely..
the grade and the regularity of changes matter most, the brand matters last!!
personally I use silkolene pro R.
google about for a copy of the motor oil bible, you'll learn a lot about oil from it! opie oils are good people to talk to and supply also, many forums including pistonheads here have affiliations
Pick the right grade oil for your engine, an older / more worn engine will better suit a thicker grade.
secondly, pick a cheap brand you can afford to change regularly rather than an expensive brand that you'll change rarely..
the grade and the regularity of changes matter most, the brand matters last!!
personally I use silkolene pro R.
google about for a copy of the motor oil bible, you'll learn a lot about oil from it! opie oils are good people to talk to and supply also, many forums including pistonheads here have affiliations
I use Shell Helix 5W40.
I have no particular preference for it but, as I basically live in the middle of nowhere, it's available locally and is decent quality.
I but in in the large containers (twenty something litres) for about €100 incl VAT (that's EUROS) so it's well affordable and for that I'll get 3 oil fills for the Cerb and have some left over for regular topping up (if ever required).
I have no particular preference for it but, as I basically live in the middle of nowhere, it's available locally and is decent quality.
I but in in the large containers (twenty something litres) for about €100 incl VAT (that's EUROS) so it's well affordable and for that I'll get 3 oil fills for the Cerb and have some left over for regular topping up (if ever required).
Im going to be controversial and say that the best oil for any vehicle is AMS oil.
Why? Because one of my clients was until recently chief lubricant tester for BP and his job was testing oils among other things, in the lab and in real situations. He said the best oil by far was AMS oil and its the only thing that he will use in his Formula two race car (and other cars)
Neither I or him have any connection with AMS.
Having said this I as yet do not have any car running on it because I have only recently found out about this oil. But when the cerb is serviced in the next few weeks I am ordering some AMS to be put in during the service.
N.B. One thing my client did say was that it sometimes is not a good idea going from semi to fully sythentic oil as fully synthetic oil will displace engine 'dirt' (dont know the techincal term)that the semi did not and can clog oil channels causing probles of oil starvation.
Why? Because one of my clients was until recently chief lubricant tester for BP and his job was testing oils among other things, in the lab and in real situations. He said the best oil by far was AMS oil and its the only thing that he will use in his Formula two race car (and other cars)
Neither I or him have any connection with AMS.
Having said this I as yet do not have any car running on it because I have only recently found out about this oil. But when the cerb is serviced in the next few weeks I am ordering some AMS to be put in during the service.
N.B. One thing my client did say was that it sometimes is not a good idea going from semi to fully sythentic oil as fully synthetic oil will displace engine 'dirt' (dont know the techincal term)that the semi did not and can clog oil channels causing probles of oil starvation.
Any of the 'Decent' oils will do the job. I used to use Silkolene, but than when you need a top up you can never find it anywhere, so I started using Shell Helix - recomended by Neil Garner Racing - it's quality oil, affordable, and easy to get hold of at any Shell station.
THe only way to tell which is the best oil (I would think) is to have 'n' identical engines running different oils, with each engine subject to exactly the same loads, then strip them down after 10's of thousands of miles and have them checkd.
THe only way to tell which is the best oil (I would think) is to have 'n' identical engines running different oils, with each engine subject to exactly the same loads, then strip them down after 10's of thousands of miles and have them checkd.
Check that you are using fully synthetic and not one of those part-synth oils which state clearly on the label SYNTHETIC. I reckon that once you've established that, just about anything available in this country will do you.
Grades of synthetic oils specify their charateristics at defined temperatures. The fairly minimal temperature swings experienced in this country means that any of the low numbers (5, 10, 15) available will be OK for your cold-start. They are all within the range for the UK.
The upper numbers depends on how hot your engine runs. A Cerb tends to run at 90 degrees, so again any of the synth oils available in this country will be fine.
You cannot buy a "thick" oil to compensate for a worn engine. Synthetics work because they have particularly long, and strong, molecular chains, so they don't break down under harsh environments. The reasoning being that a race engine is a more "harsh" environment than inside a normal road-car engine.
That said, a race car (or "hobby" car like your Cerb) will see more oil changes than a road car, so the development works in both scenarios.
Summary: Buy any FULLY synth oil, change it often and don't give it a second thought.
Grades of synthetic oils specify their charateristics at defined temperatures. The fairly minimal temperature swings experienced in this country means that any of the low numbers (5, 10, 15) available will be OK for your cold-start. They are all within the range for the UK.
The upper numbers depends on how hot your engine runs. A Cerb tends to run at 90 degrees, so again any of the synth oils available in this country will be fine.
You cannot buy a "thick" oil to compensate for a worn engine. Synthetics work because they have particularly long, and strong, molecular chains, so they don't break down under harsh environments. The reasoning being that a race engine is a more "harsh" environment than inside a normal road-car engine.
That said, a race car (or "hobby" car like your Cerb) will see more oil changes than a road car, so the development works in both scenarios.
Summary: Buy any FULLY synth oil, change it often and don't give it a second thought.
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