What secondary flash?
Discussion
I have a client who takes photos of products for ebay listings, is happy with his camera, but currently only has the onboard flash. Its a small privately run business, chap probably isnt looking to spend much money at all - His products (clothes worn by a manikin) would look significantly better if he had two flashes, id have though.
1) Would the photos look odd, if he used one onboard flash (which cant be angled or bounced) and one external flash to the side, or would he need two external flashes having supresed the onboard flash a tad with something tissue paper. IIRC he doesnt have an slr, so the flash(s) would probably need to be triggered by the onboard flash. Basically then, how many flashes does he need? and
2) If he doesnt have an slr, wouldnt an external flash over expose the subject?
3) Any suggestions for the cheapest bit of kit available to do a better job than one single onboard flash?
Many thanks in advance
1) Would the photos look odd, if he used one onboard flash (which cant be angled or bounced) and one external flash to the side, or would he need two external flashes having supresed the onboard flash a tad with something tissue paper. IIRC he doesnt have an slr, so the flash(s) would probably need to be triggered by the onboard flash. Basically then, how many flashes does he need? and
2) If he doesnt have an slr, wouldnt an external flash over expose the subject?
3) Any suggestions for the cheapest bit of kit available to do a better job than one single onboard flash?
Many thanks in advance
most flash units will have a built in 'slave cell'
this sees the onboard flash going off and says 'me too!' so they both go off at the same time.
if i was you i'd get a used low power 'monoblock' head off ebay 250w/s power or lower even and a sheet of styrene insulation from wickes.
-fire the new head AWAY from the product and into the styrene sheet to bounce back onto the model (keeps the light even and nice and soft)
-turn the flash as far down as you can. set the camera to 125th on manual and adjust the apperture til you're not overexposing.
-use the on bard flash as fill in light (hopefully you can turn this up or down) just turn it up to get less shadows and less contrast.
job done :-)
this sees the onboard flash going off and says 'me too!' so they both go off at the same time.
if i was you i'd get a used low power 'monoblock' head off ebay 250w/s power or lower even and a sheet of styrene insulation from wickes.
-fire the new head AWAY from the product and into the styrene sheet to bounce back onto the model (keeps the light even and nice and soft)
-turn the flash as far down as you can. set the camera to 125th on manual and adjust the apperture til you're not overexposing.
-use the on bard flash as fill in light (hopefully you can turn this up or down) just turn it up to get less shadows and less contrast.
job done :-)
Scho said:
set the camera to 125th on manual and adjust the apperture til you're not overexposing.-use the on bard flash as fill in light (hopefully you can turn this up or down)
With a DSLR yes, but this is on a compact - the flash may just be 'Auto' or 'Off'. With continuous lighting you can see exactly what you're getting and so can the camera - so it can expose for it as it normally would. White balance should be dealt with automatically.Simpo Two said:
Scho said:
set the camera to 125th on manual and adjust the apperture til you're not overexposing.-use the on bard flash as fill in light (hopefully you can turn this up or down)
With a DSLR yes, but this is on a compact - the flash may just be 'Auto' or 'Off'. With continuous lighting you can see exactly what you're getting and so can the camera - so it can expose for it as it normally would. White balance should be dealt with automatically.buy his lights now.
Scho said:
Simpo Two said:
Scho said:
set the camera to 125th on manual and adjust the apperture til you're not overexposing.-use the on bard flash as fill in light (hopefully you can turn this up or down)
With a DSLR yes, but this is on a compact - the flash may just be 'Auto' or 'Off'. With continuous lighting you can see exactly what you're getting and so can the camera - so it can expose for it as it normally would. White balance should be dealt with automatically.buy his lights now.
I've just splurged a pile of cash on two Vivitar 285HVs and remote triggers for off camera lighting, but I suspect that might be a bit beyond your needs here.
Previously I have been getting on well with 2 300W halogen up-lighters bought from Argos for £10 each. You can control the direction of the light so they are quite flexible, and at full power are very bright.
Previously I have been getting on well with 2 300W halogen up-lighters bought from Argos for £10 each. You can control the direction of the light so they are quite flexible, and at full power are very bright.
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