idiots guide to buying an E36 m3
Discussion
ks this is getting scary ,I'm agreeing with......well I can't say the name (
)
seriously this has become one of the most over hyped problems on almost any car, its become OTT.
To be honest I would go so far as to say that the M3 3.2 engine is one of the most reliable, economical & easiest cars to maintain considering its performance.
Try playing around with the twin turbo ricer's as cheaply ?
) seriously this has become one of the most over hyped problems on almost any car, its become OTT.
To be honest I would go so far as to say that the M3 3.2 engine is one of the most reliable, economical & easiest cars to maintain considering its performance.
Try playing around with the twin turbo ricer's as cheaply ?
dadofbud said:
Idiots guide to buying an M3, they stopped selling it an W.H Smith due to a lack of interest
Page 1 Find one you like
Page 2 Buy it
Page 3 Drive it and be happy
Page 4 your wife / children / friends will now respect you.
Page 5 The End
Remind me again, when do the schools go back?Page 1 Find one you like
Page 2 Buy it
Page 3 Drive it and be happy
Page 4 your wife / children / friends will now respect you.
Page 5 The End
Travis - there's a brief buyers guide way back in issue 072 of EVO magazine (October 04). I'd also agree that the Vanos issue tends to be overplayed on the 3.2s, and there are few other problems that you wouldn't find on any 3 series.
As you know, they are incredible value at the moment, especially when you compare them to E30s and E46s. A few subtle mods make a big difference to the handling (and steering)and give you a car that punches way above its weight. Good luck finding one!
Kurt
As you know, they are incredible value at the moment, especially when you compare them to E30s and E46s. A few subtle mods make a big difference to the handling (and steering)and give you a car that punches way above its weight. Good luck finding one!
Kurt
I fitted an X-brace from the convertible and front strut top mounts from the 3 litre. The former reduces flex at the front and the latter give a little more castor (which in turn gives more neg camber in a turn and adds some weight to the steering). I found this tightened up the front end. Both of these can be had from breakers for sensible money.
I've since gone on to fit a Bilstein Sprintline suspension kit, Powerflex Bushes, and have dropped a tyre size to 235s at the rear. When the front tyres wear out, I'll be going up to 235s (the M3GT had 235s all round). More money involved here obviously, but no more than you'd have to spend on any other car.
I've since gone on to fit a Bilstein Sprintline suspension kit, Powerflex Bushes, and have dropped a tyre size to 235s at the rear. When the front tyres wear out, I'll be going up to 235s (the M3GT had 235s all round). More money involved here obviously, but no more than you'd have to spend on any other car.
[quote=RWDKurt(the M3GT had 235s all round).
[/quote]
Didn't know that. Cheers for the info. I'm just about to replace all four tyres so will try 235's all round.
I've said for a long time that the M3 Evo represents incredible value at the moment. It's not as feelsome and nimble as an Elise for example, but by christ does it shift and outpaces an Elise by such a large margin it's almost embarrassing :large:
As far as mods go, a decent coilover set-up is a must IMO. That combined with with ajustable camber and castor mounts, polly bushes and uprated ARB's will transorm the car from a great GT into a serious road/track weapon. Brakes are another weak point, but a reasonably cheap and effective sollution is to fit decent pads, some race fluid and braided hoses
Mine is currently undergoing the above transformation and my only regret is not doing it sooner!
I have a chap interested in it but I've told him that the only thing I'd consider chopping it in for is a fettled 964 Carrera 2, which means that unless I get offered £15,000+ then I wont part with it. Nothing IMO for thos sort of money comes close.
[/quote]
Didn't know that. Cheers for the info. I'm just about to replace all four tyres so will try 235's all round.
I've said for a long time that the M3 Evo represents incredible value at the moment. It's not as feelsome and nimble as an Elise for example, but by christ does it shift and outpaces an Elise by such a large margin it's almost embarrassing :large:
As far as mods go, a decent coilover set-up is a must IMO. That combined with with ajustable camber and castor mounts, polly bushes and uprated ARB's will transorm the car from a great GT into a serious road/track weapon. Brakes are another weak point, but a reasonably cheap and effective sollution is to fit decent pads, some race fluid and braided hoses
Mine is currently undergoing the above transformation and my only regret is not doing it sooner!
I have a chap interested in it but I've told him that the only thing I'd consider chopping it in for is a fettled 964 Carrera 2, which means that unless I get offered £15,000+ then I wont part with it. Nothing IMO for thos sort of money comes close.
ASBO said:
dadofbud said:
Idiots guide to buying an M3, they stopped selling it an W.H Smith due to a lack of interest
Page 1 Find one you like
Page 2 Buy it
Page 3 Drive it and be happy
Page 4 your wife / children / friends will now respect you.
Page 5 The End
Remind me again, when do the schools go back?Page 1 Find one you like
Page 2 Buy it
Page 3 Drive it and be happy
Page 4 your wife / children / friends will now respect you.
Page 5 The End
RWDKurt said:
Travis - there's a brief buyers guide way back in issue 072 of EVO magazine (October 04). I'd also agree that the Vanos issue tends to be overplayed on the 3.2s, and there are few other problems that you wouldn't find on any 3 series.
As you know, they are incredible value at the moment, especially when you compare them to E30s and E46s. A few subtle mods make a big difference to the handling (and steering)and give you a car that punches way above its weight. Good luck finding one!
Kurt
Thankyou Kurt ,really useful info there As you know, they are incredible value at the moment, especially when you compare them to E30s and E46s. A few subtle mods make a big difference to the handling (and steering)and give you a car that punches way above its weight. Good luck finding one!
Kurt
BMW Owner had a great buyers guide about a year ago. Most important issue is to buy in condition, rather than age or mileage. Stating the obvious, a 100k car which has been looked after is a far better bet than a 40k car which has been hammered from cold 1 mile to the shop and back every day.
1. Check it has history. Dealer or (even better) specialist Indie, especially the last year or 2.
2. Check for rust around the arches. They tend to bubble there first.
3. Rear 3/4 and rear screen rubbers tend to perish or harden a bit. Cheap/easy to rectify.
4. They are hard on brakes, so check the rotor and pad condition. Again, not too pricey to sort.
5. Interiors are good, but drivers bolster can get worn. Again, not much to sort out.
6. Rear shock top mounts fail. Check these have been replaced. Again, not much to sort out.
7. Vanos is rarely an issue. Check the car picks up around 2.5k and again around 5k rpm. If not, walk away. The engines are a bit noisy anyway so don't let it worry you. There are plenty with 200k + mileage that still pull like trains so that says something.
8. The clips for the door strips can rust and break, so check they are still tight. Mind you, they also tend to get stolen, as do front bumpers and badges, so may be new anyway (as are mine).
Like any second hand car, if its been looked after (ie serviced, cleaned, anything requiring attention taken care of) etc, they are generally bomb proof and are amazing bang for your buck. If its covered in dirt, no history and generally scruffy, then adjust price accordingly.
I've got the SMG (selling shortly to upgrade though) and have found it perfect in traffic (I live in London). I'd suggest you try one before you decide.
Cheers
Andrew
1. Check it has history. Dealer or (even better) specialist Indie, especially the last year or 2.
2. Check for rust around the arches. They tend to bubble there first.
3. Rear 3/4 and rear screen rubbers tend to perish or harden a bit. Cheap/easy to rectify.
4. They are hard on brakes, so check the rotor and pad condition. Again, not too pricey to sort.
5. Interiors are good, but drivers bolster can get worn. Again, not much to sort out.
6. Rear shock top mounts fail. Check these have been replaced. Again, not much to sort out.
7. Vanos is rarely an issue. Check the car picks up around 2.5k and again around 5k rpm. If not, walk away. The engines are a bit noisy anyway so don't let it worry you. There are plenty with 200k + mileage that still pull like trains so that says something.
8. The clips for the door strips can rust and break, so check they are still tight. Mind you, they also tend to get stolen, as do front bumpers and badges, so may be new anyway (as are mine).
Like any second hand car, if its been looked after (ie serviced, cleaned, anything requiring attention taken care of) etc, they are generally bomb proof and are amazing bang for your buck. If its covered in dirt, no history and generally scruffy, then adjust price accordingly.
I've got the SMG (selling shortly to upgrade though) and have found it perfect in traffic (I live in London). I'd suggest you try one before you decide.
Cheers
Andrew
If anyone thinks VANOS is a problem try sorting EDC suspension on the E34! At least you can be sure VANOS will last once done, and for a comparatively reasonable cost given performance. The EVO prompted a seperate article on release in Autocar praising its fuel economy!! And it's otherwise a fairly simple car. There are lots of reasonably priced suspension upgrades - if KW do anything for the E36 I hear their Variant 2s are superb.
Best of luck..
And get on with it! You know you can't help it.
Best of luck..
And get on with it! You know you can't help it.
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