OZ Wheel Cleaning/Refurb ?
Discussion
Hi all.
Car's back with me now, and after a steady 15 mile drive home, seems OK.
400SE transfers have disappeared,
and she's aquired a few more blemishes.
Anyway, to quit rambling....the wheel rims look dowdy, with lots of rough spots, and corroded/oxidised bolt heads. Really let the car down.
Sorry if it's been covered recently, but WHERE and HOW MUCH for wheel refurb ? I'm oop North of course.
I had my old 280s done, but I'm thinking the split rims are a different kettle of fish.
Any info' appreciated.
edited to say...'search' not working.
Car's back with me now, and after a steady 15 mile drive home, seems OK.
400SE transfers have disappeared,
and she's aquired a few more blemishes.Anyway, to quit rambling....the wheel rims look dowdy, with lots of rough spots, and corroded/oxidised bolt heads. Really let the car down.
Sorry if it's been covered recently, but WHERE and HOW MUCH for wheel refurb ? I'm oop North of course.
I had my old 280s done, but I'm thinking the split rims are a different kettle of fish.
Any info' appreciated.

edited to say...'search' not working.
Edited by grahamw48 on Sunday 23 March 22:13
Theres a lot of people who will refurb them, but most will either charge you the earth, or will want you to split and reassemble them, which means
1) getting hold of 120 M7*24mm splitrim bolts. Not too difficult. I got mine on ebay for 120 quid. Or, I think titanium-touch.com do them in Germany.
2) getting hold of the tools to remove the old bolts. The heads are 10-point, and the sockets are available, but blody expensive. www.titanium-touch.com do them, but theyre about 100 quid for a set.
You can either have the rims diamond cut and re-lacquered, or do as everyone else does and just have them machine polished and left bare. The finish actually lasts very well.
Ask Matt-man!
1) getting hold of 120 M7*24mm splitrim bolts. Not too difficult. I got mine on ebay for 120 quid. Or, I think titanium-touch.com do them in Germany.
2) getting hold of the tools to remove the old bolts. The heads are 10-point, and the sockets are available, but blody expensive. www.titanium-touch.com do them, but theyre about 100 quid for a set.
You can either have the rims diamond cut and re-lacquered, or do as everyone else does and just have them machine polished and left bare. The finish actually lasts very well.
Ask Matt-man!
As Ed says it will cost a lot (and not always a good job!) so diy is a good option
I can lend the 10 point tools for postage costs
Stainless bolts are well worth the extra
Get the wheels checked for true - one of mine was badly buckled
Use threadlock when putting new bolts in
Use a good quality silicone to put the rims back together
You can outsource the polishing cheaply
I can lend the 10 point tools for postage costs
Stainless bolts are well worth the extra
Get the wheels checked for true - one of mine was badly buckled
Use threadlock when putting new bolts in
Use a good quality silicone to put the rims back together
You can outsource the polishing cheaply
Edited by cuneus on Monday 24th March 11:08
Edited by cuneus on Monday 24th March 11:08
I refurbed mine, in fact I did 10 of the bu55ers1
I did do a bit of speel on how I did them for Hans in Holland.
If you want me to send you a copy PM me with your email address.
It is not difficult but very time consuming.
By the time I finished mine I could double as a bank robber as I had no finger prints left.
Brian
I did do a bit of speel on how I did them for Hans in Holland.
If you want me to send you a copy PM me with your email address.
It is not difficult but very time consuming.
By the time I finished mine I could double as a bank robber as I had no finger prints left.

Brian
ed_crouch said:
Ask Matt-man!
Hey Hey!!Funny ive read this, ive started the quick cleanup again ready for this years motoring!!
Mine were quite corroded and looing a bit sorry for themselves, and after various quotes i decided to give them a go myself!!! After seeing the results from Badredwedge's wheels i thought i could give ut a go!!
Stripped the wheels with Nitromoors (and it is a bit of a 'er am i sure i want to do this?' moment when you take the lid off the can!) and this takes off the laquer almost instantly!!
After this is done, its polishing time...
I could go into much more detail but only if you want me to!
Result is ace!!
[pic]
[/pic]Snow Mole said:
Hi Graham
You back from your travels?
Still here in Durham-are you down in York now?
Cheers
Richard
Hi Richard !You back from your travels?
Still here in Durham-are you down in York now?
Cheers
Richard
Yep, back from wanderings, and back in York (my adopted home since aged 15).
Not really got to grips with Tiv yet, due to orrible weather, but looking forward to chucking money back into the pit.
Certainly loving the NOISE, the motorised pit-bull-on-a-leash sensation, the attention...... well, you know what I mean.

grahamw48 said:
Matt-man.......hey, that's more like it. 
Did you polish by hand, or with a power tool ? Tyres on ?
Thanks Graham!! Once the laquer is off, its just time and patience...I took the tyres off as i didnt want to get any of the Nitromors on the rubber as i suspect it will eatthrough them instantly!!
Did you polish by hand, or with a power tool ? Tyres on ?
The advantage of having no laquer is that you can polish them to a morror finish (which looks ace) but the disadvantage is that they do need to be kept up to scratch as they are open to the elements. They are NOWHERE near as bad as i expected to keep looking great!
the only reason i am doing them again at the moment (polishing, not nitromors) is that i didnt take out some of the blemishes which i wish i had on done so wnt to get a better look this year...
Definatly powertool for the majority and only the final part by hand...
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