Brighter light kit question
Brighter light kit question
Author
Discussion

tvrbob

Original Poster:

11,197 posts

286 months

Tuesday 25th March 2008
quotequote all
Just chatting with a fellow PHer about the brighter light kit and we couldn't understand why the problem is being solved the way this kit solves it.

As we see it the weakness in the existing system is the gauge of wire feeding power from the fuse board to the lamp connectors. The fuses and relays appear to be OK.

Why not just abandon the existing wires in the loom and run heavier gauge wires from the fuse board through to the lamp connectors?

spend

12,581 posts

282 months

Tuesday 25th March 2008
quotequote all
Nothing wrong with that Bob... but you may have a fusebox that is not 100% plus with the complexity of rewiring and weight of the wire it is often simpler to use relays on the RHS.

I have done both, replaced the LHS fusebox to undertray wiring with better thinwall cables, and also linked RHS relays to the alt. In my case it was mainly because I originally wanted a charging point in the nose, and secondly for installing HID ballasts which need a good jolt to fire up quickly.

Duplexing the earths under the rad is also beneficial IMHO.

Dave

tvrbob

Original Poster:

11,197 posts

286 months

Tuesday 8th April 2008
quotequote all
Can anyone tell me what route the cables take from the fuse board to lamp connectors? I understand that the cabling goes down one side then crosses over in the nose cone.

spend

12,581 posts

282 months

Tuesday 8th April 2008
quotequote all
There is a hole in the inner wing at the LHS of the dash, the loom then runs down the n/s inner wing (past the side repeater) to where the alarm siren is. The LHS lights come out there & the rest of the loom runs across the nose to the RHS.

Dave

tvrbob

Original Poster:

11,197 posts

286 months

Tuesday 8th April 2008
quotequote all
Thanks Dave biggrin

jdharris

225 posts

239 months

Tuesday 8th April 2008
quotequote all
Slightly off-topic but in the same area... I had a bulb go last week so took the oportunity to pop in some Philips Xtreme bulbs. Noticably brighter (so a mate says who I was following) but not had the opportunity for a "full darkness test" yet. Seem good though - just over £30 for 3 delivered from Regal Auto Bulbs - and excellent service to boot!

James

spend

12,581 posts

282 months

Tuesday 8th April 2008
quotequote all
My Hids are noticeably brighter for £40 yikes if you don't mind bending the law evilhehe

Dave

JonathanT

880 posts

315 months

Wednesday 9th April 2008
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jdharris said:
Slightly off-topic but in the same area... I had a bulb go last week so took the oportunity to pop in some Philips Xtreme bulbs. Noticably brighter (so a mate says who I was following) but not had the opportunity for a "full darkness test" yet. Seem good though - just over £30 for 3 delivered from Regal Auto Bulbs - and excellent service to boot!

James
Likewise having had one of mine go, I took the opportunity to try out a pair of Osram Nightbreakers with a (free) pair of Philips BlueVision sidelights. Everything is noticeably "whiter" and I think brighter, but again I've not had the chance for a proper test yet. Mine were £20 a pair from http://www.autobulbsonline.co.uk

T_Pot

2,542 posts

228 months

Wednesday 9th April 2008
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If the reason the lights are so poor, is down to the ability of the cable unable to carry enough power, is there not a way to convert the lights to led ones?

my thinking being, they require a lot less power to illuminate more than ordinary lamps.


anyone looked into this?

tvrbob

Original Poster:

11,197 posts

286 months

Wednesday 9th April 2008
quotequote all
T_Pot said:
is there not a way to convert the lights to led ones?
LED does not give off anything like enough candle power to replace to halogen filament. They may appear to be bright but that's something of an illusion. Similar in a way to hand held laser pens, they appear bright but they don't illuminate things very well because they emit on a very limited spectrum.