data´s for wheel alignment and camber adjustment?
Discussion
Comadis said:
anybody has an advice about data´s to start with for wheel alignment and camber adjustment?
roaduse, optimized more for cornering, less for speed.
wheels: 6x13 with 185/60 tyres, car engined kitcar.
wheel alignment 0 and camber -1,5?
Give us a clue, Comadis - is this for the Sylva again, or are we setting up a Cobra or a GTM? The settings would differ...roaduse, optimized more for cornering, less for speed.
wheels: 6x13 with 185/60 tyres, car engined kitcar.
wheel alignment 0 and camber -1,5?
Assuming it's for the Sylva, for for road use I'd start with 0.5-1 degree negative camber on the front and slight toe in.
It is normal to use some toe (either in or out, not parallel) to take the cumulative 'slack' out of the suspension joints when the car is running in a straight line. My car is actually set to toe out (because it's set up for hillclimbing), but whilst this gives nice, sharp turn-in, it makes the car a bit directionally unstable on the road, which can be tiresome.
-1.5 degrees front camber wouldn't hurt (apart from increasing wear on the inner shoulders of the tyres), but it's a bit excessive for road use, IMO.
Before you go anywhere near camber and toe settings, get the corner weights and ride heights done, though - you should be aiming for a slight nose-down rake, so the that the ground clearance to the underside of the chassis is about 150mm above ground at the rear and 135/140mm at the front.
It would also be advisable to ensure that the rear axle (assuming it's a live axle Sylva?) is pointing in the right direction and has equal camber and toe on either side. You definitely don't want the axle to be toeing-out at all, but don't be tempted to try for significant (more than about 0.5 degrees) toe-in or negative camber, because it would just increase bearing wear to an unacceptable degree.
yep...for the sylva.
i only wanted to be sure that my idea of adjuisting is also common to other people´s ideas.
and it is. i would have done the same with the camber. for starting i would prefer also to adjust some toe-in, as i mostly drive curvy roads.
rear axle will be also measured when the car is in the my friends garage. i´m very busy at the moment so this may take some time. but i will post a small report.
i only wanted to be sure that my idea of adjuisting is also common to other people´s ideas.
and it is. i would have done the same with the camber. for starting i would prefer also to adjust some toe-in, as i mostly drive curvy roads.
rear axle will be also measured when the car is in the my friends garage. i´m very busy at the moment so this may take some time. but i will post a small report.
A good tip once you have set up the camber angles and toe angles, is to test the tyre temperatures by simply running you hand across the tyre side to side after a run. If there is a noticeable difference in temperature, it means the average tyre load is uneven. So if the inside of the tyre is hotter than the outside, then reduce the negative camber or if the outsides hotter increase the negative camber. You should be able to easily detect a change of fractions of a degree. All suspension settings are a compromise as there are so many dynamic factors involved, but this is not a bad method for general road use.
Mark
Mark
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