Wedge neighbours?
Discussion
Being fairly recent to wedge ownership, i am learning slowly about the car i.e what makes it tick and what falls off! (regularly) I have heard of the main TVR events, but what about just local meet ups.
Are there owners in the Herts/Stevenage area? Would be nice to look at other cars and chat. (besides the forum that is).
Also, can anyone let me know the correct engine oil for an '89 350i, and how much i will need for full change including filter?
>>> Edited by Waynester on Wednesday 6th August 13:26
Are there owners in the Herts/Stevenage area? Would be nice to look at other cars and chat. (besides the forum that is).
Also, can anyone let me know the correct engine oil for an '89 350i, and how much i will need for full change including filter?
>>> Edited by Waynester on Wednesday 6th August 13:26
Cheers Ian (wedg1e), Going to be doing this oil change this afternoon. I'm a bit worried about this changing oil filter business. Something about preventing the pump from draining then having to re-prime!!
Am i safe taking it off and within a minute or 2 replacing with the new one???
I sound like an idiot i know, best to be sure though.
Also the oil filter is straight forward rv8 yeah??
>> Edited by Waynester on Wednesday 6th August 14:51
Am i safe taking it off and within a minute or 2 replacing with the new one???
I sound like an idiot i know, best to be sure though.
Also the oil filter is straight forward rv8 yeah??
>> Edited by Waynester on Wednesday 6th August 14:51
I was told from a good soource to drain the oil with the filter in place, then refill with new oil. After that replace the filter. Don't do both at the same time. I know this potentially means you may contaminate your new oil with old stuff but not much. Also spin the motor on the battery with the rotar arm out first to see if you get some oil pressure.
Haven't tried this yet but it sounded like good advice.
Haven't tried this yet but it sounded like good advice.
On my service he drains, new oil in, pre fills the new filter during draining then as quick as you please, changes it with the old one. Starts the car up soon after watching gauges etc like a hawk. Usually on mine it comes up straight away. 2 secs tops.
My oil is 20w50.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 6th August 15:23
>> Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 6th August 15:24
My oil is 20w50.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 6th August 15:23
>> Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 6th August 15:24
wedg1e said:
Best oil for an RV8 is 20W/50 e.g. Castrol GTX, and don't let anyone tell you otherwise ;-)
Wow, is time to come out of the closet. My name is BoltonTVR and I'm a CastrolGTXoholic. There I've done it, not a single mention of the word synthetic.
Safeways had an offer recently for Castrol GTX, two five litre cans for fifteen quid. Got an oil filter for £4.30, so the whole change was less than twenty quid. Sorry Mobil.
You do have to be a bit quick with the filter change; unlike the SD1, the filter is remotely mounted on the TVR and is upside down, so lots of potential for mess.
It's also got to be a bit of a perfectionist who drains all of the remote hoses, and the cooler, and the cooler hoses... but it is, of course, the best method. Common sense and regular oil/ filter changes suggests that it won't be a problem. Leaving it until the oilways are full of sludge and expecting a miracle cleanout is not the best option
I always drain the oil, take the filter off then pour some new oil down the remote hoses to flush the old stuff back to the sump. Put the new oil in. Fill the new filter with new oil, then quickly spin the filter on. Then pull the distributor out (bear with me!) and spin the oil pump drive up using a long bolt with a slot cut in the head, fitted into an electric drill. You can hear the difference when the pump starts making pressure. Then drop the distributor back in, reset the ignition timing and fire her up.
If you think that sounds long-winded, consider how long and how expensive an engine rebuild is....
Ian
It's also got to be a bit of a perfectionist who drains all of the remote hoses, and the cooler, and the cooler hoses... but it is, of course, the best method. Common sense and regular oil/ filter changes suggests that it won't be a problem. Leaving it until the oilways are full of sludge and expecting a miracle cleanout is not the best option
I always drain the oil, take the filter off then pour some new oil down the remote hoses to flush the old stuff back to the sump. Put the new oil in. Fill the new filter with new oil, then quickly spin the filter on. Then pull the distributor out (bear with me!) and spin the oil pump drive up using a long bolt with a slot cut in the head, fitted into an electric drill. You can hear the difference when the pump starts making pressure. Then drop the distributor back in, reset the ignition timing and fire her up.
If you think that sounds long-winded, consider how long and how expensive an engine rebuild is....
Ian
Waynester - The Herts/Beds monthly meet is the 2nd Sunday lunchtime of every month at "The Three Horseshoes" in Harpenden on East Common Road off the A1081 - We could do with getting the Wedge numbers up.
www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?X=515000&Y=212000&scale=25000&coordsys=gb
>> Edited by Wedgie400 on Wednesday 6th August 23:32
>> Edited by Wedgie400 on Wednesday 6th August 23:34
www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?X=515000&Y=212000&scale=25000&coordsys=gb
>> Edited by Wedgie400 on Wednesday 6th August 23:32
>> Edited by Wedgie400 on Wednesday 6th August 23:34
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