New Body or New Lens - my dilemma

[kybo]

Can't afford both so here goes.

Current body - EOS350D
Lenses - Sig 28-300mm
Can 28-135mm IS
Can 18-55mm kit

I enjoy taking pictures of my family and wildlife but I have the bug (badly ) for motorsport photography.

I have been offered a 2yr old (boxed, mint cond) EOS20D for £250 and also been offered his 6 month old (immac) Sigma 50-500mm for £300 (when he sources a replacement).

I know the 20D will be a massive upgrade to the 350D but I have used the 50-500 on a few occasions for motorsport and it's amazing (and at a fantastic price, I think)

I'm leaning toward the lens as I have a camera that does the job (ok) but don't really have a lens that's any good for Motorsport.

Waddaya reckon, help me out please?
Thanks,
Scott

[Piers_K]

"I'm leaning toward the lens as I have a camera that does the job (ok) but don't really have a lens that's any good for Motorsport."

Kinda answered your own question me thinks

I assume you will be selling your 350 body if you buy the 20.. or a lens if you go for the 50-500?

[kybo]

Kinda think your spot on

A lot of people swear by two bodies but I don't know if I could afford not to sell the 350D if I upgraded (TBH the wife wouldn't let me keep two )

If I got the lens I think I'll hold on to the others, for a while at least.

Thanks,
Scott

[sidaorb]

Personally I'm not so keen on that lens

Buy the 20D, then sell your body (the camera, not yours) and use the money from that halfway towards a Sigma 70-200 F2.8 and a 1.4x telecon or a Sigma 100-300mm F4

Edited by sidaorb on Wednesday 2nd April 20:21

[RobDickinson]

IMO the 20D isn't a massive upgrade on the 350D.

Slightly better low light focusing, slightly better viewfinder, 5fps and more ergonomic but I'm sure your used to the 350d anyhow now.

It wont take better pictures than the 350d, the end result wont be any different.

Where as with the 20D you still wont have the lens to get you the shots you want.

IMO go for the lens or a 40D.

IMo the 50-500 if your buying new wait, theres a 150-500 OS replacement out very very soon.

[sidaorb]

Just to throw another small spanner in the works.............there are a few 1D MkI's floating around at the moment for sensible prices......if your talking motorsport then thats the one that began it all

Ok only 4 mp but a proper frame rate

[MonkeyHanger]

When paired with the right lens the 20D is a more than capable motorsport camera, i managed quite well with one for 2 years.

[RobDickinson]

MonkeyHanger said:

When paired with the right lens the 20D is a more than capable motorsport camera, i managed quite well with one for 2 years.

Trouble is its a lens or a camera, so the 20d wont be paired with the right lens.

I'd take a poorer camera with the right lens over a beter body with no lens.

[MonkeyHanger]

RobDickinson said:

MonkeyHanger said:

When paired with the right lens the 20D is a more than capable motorsport camera, i managed quite well with one for 2 years.

Trouble is its a lens or a camera, so the 20d wont be paired with the right lens.

I'd take a poorer camera with the right lens over a beter body with no lens.

I won't disagree, but then again i wouldn't recommend the old 1D either just because it will do 8fps. You don't need a machine-gun for motorsports. The other problem with the original 1D is the battery life.

The only time i fire off bursts is for rallies where you're lucky to see the same car twice in a day and even then it's only 2 or 3 shots.

If the OP can only afford either the 20D OR the 50-500, perhaps selling the 350D and 70-300 would raise enough extra cash to fund both?

[kybo]

Thanks,

I find asking questions on here interesting to say the least as everyone's opinion wil varie slightly, even if in agreement. And it's all appreciated.

I'm constantly looking to improve my equipment as I improve so I was interested to note that body improvement wouldn't be drastic by upgrading here. But, if I could fund both is £250 a good/fair price for this body?

I also appreciate the advice given about different lenses. Probably the wrong way of thinking but I am swayed towards the Bigma (over recommended lenses) because I have used it and know its capabilities. By the same token I am aware that this lens is not F2.8 or even prime and that that could improve my shots no end. What would rough costs be for the 70-200 F2.8 + TC and/or for the 100-300 F4?

Thanks again for the sound advice,
Scott

[Piers_K]

You could pick up a 20D + battery grip for the same sort of money off e bay.. but you dont have the advantage of knowing the seller and the bodies history as you do with your mates..

Re a wider lens.. For wildlife and family yes it may well be an advantage to get a shallower depth of field.. but if I remember correctly when it comes to M/sport your a bit of a pan fan.. in which case its doubtful you'll be using it wide open...

Go back over some of your favorite shots and see what aperture you used..

[kybo]

Piers_K said:

but if I remember correctly when it comes to M/sport your a bit of a pan fan.. in which case its doubtful you'll be using it wide open...

Yes, you are right. I read (and used) a lot of advice about panning, so as not to get 'static' cars out on the circuit. The slow shutter speeds can be achieved by dialling in smaller(?) apertures (F4/F6 upwards) in Av mode so I find that the Bigma aperture range works well for me. How often would you be called to use F2.8 when panning M/sport?

I'll check my shots; I think most were around F8-F11 for Silverstone as I had to zoom more to get closer but at Cadwell you're closer so probably didn't go that high (F4-F6.3). Both were dull/overcast/rainy days too so sunny days wouldn't be problematic.

F2.8 would help in other aspects of photography but I lack that kind of money at the mo.

Thanks,
Scott

[MonkeyHanger]

kybo said:

Piers_K said:

but if I remember correctly when it comes to M/sport your a bit of a pan fan.. in which case its doubtful you'll be using it wide open...

Yes, you are right. I read (and used) a lot of advice about panning, so as not to get 'static' cars out on the circuit. The slow shutter speeds can be achieved by dialling in smaller(?) apertures (F4/F6 upwards) in Av mode so I find that the Bigma aperture range works well for me. How often would you be called to use F2.8 when panning M/sport?

I'll check my shots; I think most were around F8-F11 for Silverstone as I had to zoom more to get closer but at Cadwell you're closer so probably didn't go that high (F4-F6.3). Both were dull/overcast/rainy days too so sunny days wouldn't be problematic.

F2.8 would help in other aspects of photography but I lack that kind of money at the mo.

Thanks,
Scott

Use either shutter priority or Manual for motorsports. Using AV is totally pointless as your shutter speed is the main factor.

Then simply use the ISO setting to control aperture. Around f8-f10 (ish) is the general rule of thumb. Obviously if you're doing pans then the aperture may be totally different.