TRACKDAY BRAKE PADS FOR RX7
Discussion
Hi
On my first track day my brake pads overheated and the brakes deteriorated.
I was alarmed to see clouds of smoke billowing from under the car when I stopped. Subsequntly relieved to see that it wasn't steam!!
Has anyone tried Hawk pads or have 1st hand experience of a good alternative that won't destroy my disks please? I have booked my 2nd track day.
On my first track day my brake pads overheated and the brakes deteriorated.
I was alarmed to see clouds of smoke billowing from under the car when I stopped. Subsequntly relieved to see that it wasn't steam!!
Has anyone tried Hawk pads or have 1st hand experience of a good alternative that won't destroy my disks please? I have booked my 2nd track day.
Thanks fellas. I've bought some Hawk ones for the front. I'll leave the backs standard for now. The Hawk ones were also recommended by Rotechnics who look after my car so I'll let you know how they work out. The price was about £80 including Vat and P&P which seems reasonable. I saw them advertised for much more elsewhere.
What part of braking makes a difference? I assumed that there wasn't a great deal of room for different technique - in as much as there is a limited distance and a maximum speed at which a corner can be taken...
PS I didn't give much thought to cooling the brakes back down, just come into the pits and let the car rest without any brakes applied. Should one do a gentle slowing down lap?
PS I didn't give much thought to cooling the brakes back down, just come into the pits and let the car rest without any brakes applied. Should one do a gentle slowing down lap?
Braking is something that is quite hard to get right. With the wrong technique it is possible to destroy even the best pads.
it is all about braking hard, and for as short as time as possible, given grip. Braking is tapered with the hardest, firmest braking coming first, tapering off to no brakes as you get to the turn in point. Then there is trail braking, when and how and where. learning to use a corner as a braking zone without swapping ends. And keeping them cool, so you do need to cool the brakes - that will have the biggest effect on the pads. And they need to be warmed up correctly, bedded in correctly...
it is all about braking hard, and for as short as time as possible, given grip. Braking is tapered with the hardest, firmest braking coming first, tapering off to no brakes as you get to the turn in point. Then there is trail braking, when and how and where. learning to use a corner as a braking zone without swapping ends. And keeping them cool, so you do need to cool the brakes - that will have the biggest effect on the pads. And they need to be warmed up correctly, bedded in correctly...
There's more to this than meets the eye. I get the bit about the heavy braking first. It was far more noticeable on the track how unsettling it is for the car when you come off the brakes suddenly on the way into a corner. Spin inducing even. I'll concentrate on smoothing this out. As for trail braking - this was mentioned but I didn't get it. I'll make further enquiries next time out with an instructor!
Running Hawk HT-10 pads on the front and HP+ rear. Braided hoses and R600 'racing' fluid.
No issues with cooking them on trackdays and VMax events (170mph-50 breaking!).
If your rex still has ABS then you should be breaking hard enough to to get that kicking in initially.
You shouldn't be coming off the breaks suddenly at turn in as you've found out - it should be quick but not sudden. Something I struggly with too - fine line between being fast and smooth vs spinning
Managed to leave Copse backwards and do two 360s because I cocked up the breaking (and a downshift) at turn in.
More tuition needed!
No issues with cooking them on trackdays and VMax events (170mph-50 breaking!).
If your rex still has ABS then you should be breaking hard enough to to get that kicking in initially.
You shouldn't be coming off the breaks suddenly at turn in as you've found out - it should be quick but not sudden. Something I struggly with too - fine line between being fast and smooth vs spinning
Managed to leave Copse backwards and do two 360s because I cocked up the breaking (and a downshift) at turn in.More tuition needed!
Funny how you barely use the brakes day to day then on a track day they become the focus of attention. The brakes on an RX7 used to be state of the art as standard as far as production car braking distances were concerned according to Road & Track USA. I must admit I am tempted by a fancy upgrade with alloy bells and floating disks etc etc. There is a firm in Dartford which makes and fits lovely kit. They are called Hi-Spec. The proprietor is a brake anorak/scientist. On the other hand I read a back to back test on a Nissan SX200 which had 4 pots as standard. They installed a really fancy kit as described and the difference was barely measurable! One wonders whether the disk circumference/area or the "grip" of the caliper has the most effect...
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