MOT help please!!!

[wedgtable]

After 3 months I have finally got the SS manifolds to fit (it involved a big hammer). took her for MOT today (it felt so good after 18 months to go for a flip) and she failed on:
near side lower fornt suspension joint has excessive play in lower ball joint

offside front track rod end ball pin shank loose

does anyone know the part no.s/model for these parts and is the replacement in the bible ( I left mine at the garage), big job or not??

Emmisions are too high aswell so does anyone know a quick fix as the tester fiddled under the hood, but couldn't get em down?

Also they have said that I need to fit side indicaters? is that true if they werent fitted? if so is it ok to fit them just under the headlights, in front of the wheel arch?I figure that will be easiest to wire up??

thanks in advance and I am so desperate to get out wedging again now. I have missed it so much.

[mikeb]

Get it warmed up and give it a good blast up and down the street and then test the gasses. What was he testing against - Landrover V8??

MikeyB

[adam quantrill]

If it's a flapper you can give the AFM a bypass pipe, it's a bit of a bodge but does work for MOT'ing.

Get some 10 or 8mm copper pipe - you only need a few inches, and flatten it to about 2mm inside gap at one end.

Then you can trap it between the flexible pipe and AFM to let more air in. Use some foam to pack around the gaps. Clamp it in place with the big jubilee clip. You can stick some foam in the end to plug it after the MOT.

[wedgtable]

I think it does need a good thrash but I'm not sure what the rules r on burning it up a country lane before an mot.Adam, I love ur idea. just love engineering that bypasses the daftness of it all. Thanks.

Any ideas on the ball joints??

[350zwelgje]

Lower ball joint: It is cortina. Aftermarket stuff is available but won't last long. Find the ones with a grease nipple. Replacement involves to dismantle the front suspension (including compressing the spring). Not to difficult if you can do you own spannering. A couple of hours per side (if all bolts are removeable....)

For the track rods poly stuff is available. That is if you mean the large soft donut type to keep it to the chassis.

Emissions: Had same issue once but creeped past during MOT. As mentioned before a good run is step one. If rising rate fuel pressure regulator, make sure it the pressure is not higher than standard (2.5 bar). Air filter should be clean.
If it is a flapper:
- Increase the idle to like 1200.
- Clean the adjustment bolt for CO (mixture)
Adjust the lot and you could be fine.

If not: If ignition and or timing is not ok and cause situations that emissions stay wrong.
Last - ECU is up the creek (just needs resoldering then, which is not a big thing but precise and you need to be able/understand how to do it correctly). ECU not ok was my situation when just passing for MOT and a few months later the wedge would only idle and not rev anymore.

If your wedge is original, I think they can't make you to install something that wasn't there in the first place. Seems that both situations were 'standard' and even some people blanked them and had no issues.

Rob

[wedgtable]

Thanks guys, if I have this right:
-Lower ball joint is cortina mk4 drill the rivets out and replace with bolts. Am I right in thinking that I can put a jack under spring to compress it??
-Emissions are bodgable but could be the ECU , which explains the lack of idle abilty, so I will look into that.
-indicators are not necessary if car is original???
-Not sure about the trackrod ends, where can I get new ones???

Got to get it back on the road this year 2 years is too long

[350zwelgje]

wedgtable said:

Thanks guys, if I have this right:
-Lower ball joint is cortina mk4 drill the rivets out and replace with bolts. Am I right in thinking that I can put a jack under spring to compress it??
-Emissions are bodgable but could be the ECU , which explains the lack of idle abilty, so I will look into that.
-indicators are not necessary if car is original???
-Not sure about the trackrod ends, where can I get new ones???

Got to get it back on the road this year 2 years is too long

- Lower ball joint description is ok so you know your stuff it seems, but no on the jack to compress the spring as this method is VERY DANGEROUS. Please compress the spring. Steve Heath has a cost effective way (see bible which involves a rod a few bolts and a square tube or something like that at the bottom = wishbone). Better then testing you insurance or even life insurance.
- I also had idle inability due to gunged up CO adjustment screw. You can unscrew it completely and then clean it. See to do and check if it improves before attacking the ECU. A clogged up air filter can have the same effect.
- You need indicators, but thought you mentioned side-indicators/repeaters. As indicator you can sort of use anything to pass an MOT (even land rover screw on indicators for example......)
- Track rod ends: All part suppliers that know wedges can provide you with poly. Remark: Would not recommend the standard ford stuff as it is foam (my opinion) and not worth it.

Rob

[wedgtable]

thanks rob, i have a rod with some bolts and a bit of steel plate that i think i can use to compress the spring. my life insurance is good but I am not willing to give her that money easily....

is tvr car parts a good place for track rod ends or RT racing??

Not sure where the CO screw is?? sorry.

indicators work fine but they want me to put side repeaters on,not really a big prob but hate the idea of drilling holes in the body..


thanks again guys

Edited by wedgtable on Monday 7th April 20:40

[djc1001]

Agree upper and lower ball joints are Cortina 3/4/5
The track rod ends are also Cortina Mk 3 / 4 also common to Granada Mk11 and several other Fords.
Obtainable from most motor factors or the normal Wedge / TVR specialists.
The QH upper and lower ball joints seem OK -
Whilst it's in bits do the upper ball joint then one side is 'finished'

Why remove spring?
If you leave the inner pivot bolts and shock in place it restricts movement of the lower wishbone - remove hub carrier by splitting ball joints and you should be able to get a grinder / drill to remove rivots.
If removing spring - always with bar type compressor SPub style.

David

[wedgtable]

Thanks David,
that is what i was thinking with the spring if that is viewed as safe?

[GV]

I have just done both wishones on both sides replacing the b/joints. My power steering now feels like power steering!

I stripped the entire suspension, cleaned it all up and replaced the shocks. IMO it is far easier with the parts off the car and if you use the spring compressor stipping it shouldn't take take long. The parts are cheap off ebay etc. If the nuts are rusted don't bother with WD or Plus Gaz - just grind the bastads off. You will need a high speed drill bit - get 2 in case one breaks then drill out the studs.

Putting it back together is fiddly and you need to make sure the spring is seated correctly otherwise it will sit high - having said that I'm suspecting that my n/s side is higher for that same reason - some final fetling before its MOT should sort it even if it means stipping and re-assembling it again which won't take long...

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

wedgtable said:

thanks rob, i have a rod with some bolts and a bit of steel plate that i think i can use to compress the spring. my life insurance is good but I am not willing to give her that money easily....

is tvr car parts a good place for track rod ends or RT racing??

Not sure where the CO screw is?? sorry.

indicators work fine but they want me to put side repeaters on,not really a big prob but hate the idea of drilling holes in the body..


thanks again guys

You don't need side repeater if they was never fitted or not there.
if they are they are there they have to work.

CO2 can be adjusted on the plemum and AFM.

Track rod ends come up on ebay.

I have a spare I can post tomorrow if needed urgently just replace and pay for postage.

depends on where you are, as my local MOT centre will set your CO2 up for you on the machine, if you say you are a friend of mine. he also will not make stupid requests like you need things you don't.

Leigh

[cirks]

Make sure they test the emissions at appropriate/allowable revs - plenty of places don't follow MOT guidelines about allowing holding at certain revs (can't tell you exact figure) before resorting to idle and doing the test. You'll find details on previous threads or google. If your emissions are a long way out then you want to get them right anyway. If mine with 4.8 on carbs can easily pass I'm sure you can get yours to!

[dwgriffith]

From MOT testing manual online at http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_150.htm
Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986
These must be fitted with one side repeater indicator on each side. Instead of a separate lamp, the side repeater might be part of the front direction indicator if it includes a wraparound lens. (See information on following page).

[adam quantrill]

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

You don't need side repeater if they was never fitted or not there.
if they are they are there they have to work.

Leigh

I agree, my 350i never had them. Just point them to the silver type approval sticker next to the chassis plate under the bonnet.

[leorest]

adam quantrill said:

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

You don't need side repeater if they was never fitted or not there.
if they are they are there they have to work.
Leigh

I agree, my 350i never had them. Just point them to the silver type approval sticker next to the chassis plate under the bonnet.

... and use a different place next year! The "tester" is obviously only familiar with modern Euroboxes/rice-burners. Find a testing station who know their job.

[matt-man]

Hey Mike!

Once your all MOT'd i look forward to going for a blast!

Driving wise, your all clear to drive to and from a MOT station, or a garage for repairs to pass the MOT. The only stipulation is that you NEED to have a booked appointment and not just 'er i woz popin to da garage plod' as that wont wash!

Also, you need insurance (but thats obvious!)

Go for a good blast before hand to open her up a bit....

Good Luck matey!!

[wedgtable]

Thanks guys excellent stuff have the parts on order. Looking forward to getting stuck in. All the bolts should come apart easily as I only replaced the springs 18 months ago!! Revs are still being tricky, I just can't get it to idle but have more things to try, thanks for all the info.
My MOT centre used to be very good (easy!!) but I think they must have been jumped by the ministry.

Matt, I will defo be up for some hooning as soon as shes on the road.Living in Eastleigh now so not to far from you.

Mike