Drivers window FFS!
Discussion
Im just on my way out and been airing the cerb(Doors open) today and the drivers window wont go up 
FFS...it'l go down but not up! I can here the motor clicking when I press down but nothing when I press up, so is it gona be something simple like wire off switch or duff switch? Or something more sinister/costly?
FFS...it'l go down but not up! I can here the motor clicking when I press down but nothing when I press up, so is it gona be something simple like wire off switch or duff switch? Or something more sinister/costly?Ballsy said:
That'l be the flux capacitor thats away....very expensive
Damnit, knew it would be expensive thought it might be a sticking foo foo valve though? 
Ballsy said:
Best bet will be to take the door card off and have a look at the motor and mechanism
Well stuck a cover over it last night and will whip the cards off tonight I guess 
sonnylad said:
If you have a magnet, first check the reed sensor at the bottom of the door.
As this informs control box the door is closed and all is ok to raise the window.
Russ
Only just looked at this post, and have door card off/ glass out and wiring hanging out of holes in the door now!As this informs control box the door is closed and all is ok to raise the window.
Russ
Not a total waste of time though as I found the wires from courtesy sensor on the door broken, so reconnected them and went through cleaning all the other connections I could find...nope didnt work!
Mind you with all my jjjjiggling of wires the glass went up
, so lowered it then tried again....and..
it wont go up again!!!! Soo peed off.
1/Have now disconnected/reconnected the door/window control box.... no difference.
2/Have checked all the connections in the door and cleaned some up...no difference.
3/Have looked at the connections on the back of the switch, seem ok.
So.. I suppose it could be a break in the loom before it enters the door??
Or could it be still be faulty control box?
Any other ideas? Getting desperate now!
2/Have checked all the connections in the door and cleaned some up...no difference.
3/Have looked at the connections on the back of the switch, seem ok.
So.. I suppose it could be a break in the loom before it enters the door??
Or could it be still be faulty control box?
Any other ideas? Getting desperate now!
SmokinV8 said:
1/Have now disconnected/reconnected the door/window control box.... no difference.
2/Have checked all the connections in the door and cleaned some up...no difference.
3/Have looked at the connections on the back of the switch, seem ok.
So.. I suppose it could be a break in the loom before it enters the door??
Or could it be still be faulty control box?
Any other ideas? Getting desperate now!
What I would do is determine if the problem is with the motor or the switch. I don't have any notes here (at work) but if you take a look at the wiring diagrams to the door/window contorl unit it is pretty easy to work out which wires are which. Hard wire power to the drivers window up wires (from the control unit power wires) and see if the window goes up. If so then put a multimeter on the drivers side up window switch wires and press the switch to see if you have a voltage registered.2/Have checked all the connections in the door and cleaned some up...no difference.
3/Have looked at the connections on the back of the switch, seem ok.
So.. I suppose it could be a break in the loom before it enters the door??
Or could it be still be faulty control box?
Any other ideas? Getting desperate now!
If the winodw motor works and the switch works then then test if you have a voltage on the window pos switch and door reed switch wires. From memory they should both drop to 0v when door closed/window up.
Let me know if you get stuck and I will dig my notes out to post a more detailed explaination.
If all checks out then the control unit is shot.
Tim.
TimJM said:
SmokinV8 said:
1/Have now disconnected/reconnected the door/window control box.... no difference.
2/Have checked all the connections in the door and cleaned some up...no difference.
3/Have looked at the connections on the back of the switch, seem ok.
So.. I suppose it could be a break in the loom before it enters the door??
Or could it be still be faulty control box?
Any other ideas? Getting desperate now!
What I would do is determine if the problem is with the motor or the switch. I don't have any notes here (at work) but if you take a look at the wiring diagrams to the door/window contorl unit it is pretty easy to work out which wires are which. Hard wire power to the drivers window up wires (from the control unit power wires) and see if the window goes up. If so then put a multimeter on the drivers side up window switch wires and press the switch to see if you have a voltage registered.2/Have checked all the connections in the door and cleaned some up...no difference.
3/Have looked at the connections on the back of the switch, seem ok.
So.. I suppose it could be a break in the loom before it enters the door??
Or could it be still be faulty control box?
Any other ideas? Getting desperate now!
If the winodw motor works and the switch works then then test if you have a voltage on the window pos switch and door reed switch wires. From memory they should both drop to 0v when door closed/window up.
Let me know if you get stuck and I will dig my notes out to post a more detailed explaination.
If all checks out then the control unit is shot.
Tim.
Often they used cable that was a little "at the limit" for the distance or power that it was to carry (headlight cabling springs to mind). Additionally, the connectors were often not protected as well as in other makes (door motors, etc).
One of the other things that shows itself from a few of the workarounds that folks use, is that (and I'm no electrical specialist) they tended to combine power cabling with switching, whereas I get the impression that current engineering would recommend using lower powered switching circuits with seperate power cabling.
One of the other things that shows itself from a few of the workarounds that folks use, is that (and I'm no electrical specialist) they tended to combine power cabling with switching, whereas I get the impression that current engineering would recommend using lower powered switching circuits with seperate power cabling.
Storer said:
I know the electrics on the Cerb (any TVR really) can be troublesome but what is the reason.
Is it that the factory used cheap components or insufficient support/attachment points?
Was it that the technology was in it's infancy and had not been perfected?
I think most have damp or water ingress too, doesnt help electrics! Is it that the factory used cheap components or insufficient support/attachment points?
Was it that the technology was in it's infancy and had not been perfected?
LOL - you think this is just a tvr problem. I used to run a modified 20 year old capri and ended up removing the wiring loom and making a new one at work because it was so bad and corroded. My wifes MX-5 is the same, and as for my ex 6 year old Kawasaki motorbike, that was awful. Connections had actually rotted off around the headlight/fairing.
It's a combination of our weather and the salt etc they put on the roads mostly. Ok a little more protection on the pugs would be good as well.
It's a combination of our weather and the salt etc they put on the roads mostly. Ok a little more protection on the pugs would be good as well.
Edited by Byker28i on Sunday 20th April 18:15
At the moment, anyway. Just finished working on the car, and the bl**dy window will not go fully up now! Have unplugged the control box then reconnected again, wasnt that. So Im sure this is to do with the door closed sensor. Before I put the door cards back on, the window went up fully when I held the sensor shut.But as soon as the card went back on it rises up to the point where the bottom of the window passes the sensor (you can here it click) then stops regardless whether the door is open or shut. Guess Im now going to have to remove the magnetic reed sensor on the bottom of the door?
And to top it all off, after playing with the window whilst greasing up the runners etc Ive managed to flatten the battery!
And to top it all off, after playing with the window whilst greasing up the runners etc Ive managed to flatten the battery!
Good news, what was the fix?
I have seen a few people having problems with the door/windows recently, I will post up my findings from when I researched the various connections to the box to see if they help others.
Edited to say - post continued on next page.
I have seen a few people having problems with the door/windows recently, I will post up my findings from when I researched the various connections to the box to see if they help others.
Edited to say - post continued on next page.
Edited by TimJM on Tuesday 22 April 08:44
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