Front ARB drop links

[griffter]

Does anybody know the ball joint thread diameter (or ARB hole diameter) and effective length of the front anti-roll bar drop links please?

I have a source of cheap rose joints and want to make my own drop links, but I want to start parts investigation before I'll have the chance to get the drop links off the car.

Thanks...

[PurpleV8]

I have some old ones off a 97 Chim in my garage. If you want them you can have them. 2 mins from M4 J23A.

Purple V8

[clive f]

make sure they are good quality, my ones are knackered after 18 months!

considering going back to standard set.

[shpub]

Hi Clive

What did the manufacturer say when you contacted them to say you'd had a problem?

[griffter]

PurpleV8: thanks and YHM...

Clive: yeah, not expecting them to last forever, or be a patch on shpub's for quality. More than anything I'd be interested to see if I can do it and what difference they make.

Edited by griffter on Friday 18th April 12:25

[clive f]

shpub said:

Hi Clive

What did the manufacturer say when you contacted them to say you'd had a problem?

as you well kmow steve, I havent told you
they are now loose on the back end of the car.

[shpub]

clive f said:

as you well kmow steve, I havent told you
they are now loose on the back end of the car.

If you don't tell me you have a problem, how can I help you?
If they are loose, have you tried tightening them up?
It might be as simple as that. See this check list that I normally go through with unexpected clunks.

"If they are clunking then there are a few things to check:

1. The bolts are tight enough to clamp the rose joints so that the droplinks swivel on the rose joint and not on the bolt.

2. They are fitted so that as the ARB moves the rose joints do not lock out i.e. they do not reach the end of the movement. If they do, the links need to be re-orientated. This should be checked per the fitting instructions. It may look fine with the wheels off the ground but as the suspension compresses, it may clunk as the rose joint touches. With the rear, it may require the yoke to be at either 90 degrees to the ARB or parallel with it.

3. There is no play in the rose joint. Grab the drop link and see if it can be moved. If so, it is possible that there is some play in the rose joint but it could be a loose nut/bolt so check point 1. If it is the rose joint, contact me and I'll sort out a replacement.

It can also be other areas like the ARB bushes or a broken mount on the wishbone. As the drop link is now working correctly, the ARB may be moving in the bush and this is causing a clunk as it hits the chassis. Equally it can also be something else that is loose. "

If you've checked all this and still have a problem PM me and we'll sort it out.

[clive f]

cheers steve

[Chimjunkie]

griffter said:

Does anybody know the ball joint thread diameter (or ARB hole diameter) and effective length of the front anti-roll bar drop links please?

I have a source of cheap rose joints and want to make my own drop links, but I want to start parts investigation before I'll have the chance to get the drop links off the car.

Thanks...

Funny, I went down this route. Bought the rose joints and started to think about bolts, nuts, washers and long nut to join the two in good quality stainless... Far too much hastle and cost so bought Steve Heaths set! Looking a what he supplied, my attempt would never have been so good!! and would not have really saved that much money for the effort.

[900T-R]

Indeed - I'm a cheap ba$tard (unfortunately I have to be - but for the 58-odd pounds Steve charges for a pair of droplinks which look good enough to keep an extra set in a display case I really can't be bothered to find out if it could be done any cheaper.

And that's from the man who spent ten hours and covered his living room in aluminium shavings blending his trumpet base .

[Bonefish]

If you've got a lathe, LHT & RHT 10mm taps, some SS hex, and ally bar for the spacers - then you can make yourself up some fully adjustable ones like these.
Rose joint id is 10mm

[Pasco]

clive f said:

shpub said:

Hi Clive

What did the manufacturer say when you contacted them to say you'd had a problem?

as you well kmow steve, I havent told you
they are now loose on the back end of the car.

[Pasco]

Hello Quinny me old buddy

[Pasco]

Quinny said:

How de doo de


You going to Chatsworth???

Yes providing its not Pissing it down Buddy

[Pasco]

How does Shut the fk up sound then Quinny My Yellow Backed Welding Expert ?

[Pasco]

I do intend to go to be honest so keep an eye out for a Fat Git driving a Loudish Griff

[Pasco]

Mate i look forward to it

[griffter]

Chimjunkie said:

Funny, I went down this route. Bought the rose joints and started to think about bolts, nuts, washers and long nut to join the two in good quality stainless... Far too much hastle and cost so bought Steve Heaths set! Looking a what he supplied, my attempt would never have been so good!! and would not have really saved that much money for the effort.

The shpub droplinks in the metal are indeed impressive. And I take your point - the hardware is critical and important to get right.

The way I was going to do it was far simpler though: Why not just get a male and a female rose joint and screw them together (assuming sufficient thread length) then secure at the required length/angle with a locking nut on the male thread? I don't see the need for the two males screwed into the 'long nut'. Once the drop link length is established and the links are fitted I can't see the need to adjust them in situ. Hence why I want to give it a go!

My normal practice is to try to do something cheaply, realise the shortcomings and shell out in full, thus spending more money than I would have done if I'd listened to common sense in the first place...

[The AJP Griff]

griffter said:

The way I was going to do it was far simpler though: Why not just get a male and a female rose joint and screw them together (assuming sufficient thread length) then secure at the required length/angle with a locking nut on the male thread?

Thats how a mate of mine has done it,Ben,and it works just fine.He bough 4 very good quality rod ends and some rubber boots for a very reasonable price.I'm pretty sure this is how Joo has done it on my new car as well

Edited by The AJP Griff on Sunday 20th April 11:37

[Chimjunkie]

That was my original thought. But wandered if the length of male and female thread would be long enough?