In reply to a quest. asked by Jim
Discussion
"how many miles on your car? What is it's general shape? What kind of history do you have? How far do you want to go in getting it in top form? Your answers will go a long way to helping us tailor a response to your questions. Happy Motoring! Jim '85TE"
-I have 55k Miles on the car, the general shape is basically just alright. A lot of morons have worked on the car and cobbled things up (I.E. The turbo doesn't work, the clutch doesn't work, the exhaust leaks, headlights dont' work (electrical?) and some electrical is cobbled up. I have no history with this type of car, basically only American cars. I would like this thing running in great shape. And I would even like to drive it someday
-I have 55k Miles on the car, the general shape is basically just alright. A lot of morons have worked on the car and cobbled things up (I.E. The turbo doesn't work, the clutch doesn't work, the exhaust leaks, headlights dont' work (electrical?) and some electrical is cobbled up. I have no history with this type of car, basically only American cars. I would like this thing running in great shape. And I would even like to drive it someday
Brandon,
Ok....where to begin..?? First things first. Do a general inspection and diagnosis of the engine. Get a compression tester and check each cylinder (engine warm, throttles wide open). Do both a Wet and Dry test on each cylinder. You should see at least 120PSI on each cylinder and a variance between cylinders of no more than 5PSI (which is on the high side), if not, you probably have the makings of Piston Crowning.
PC is a phenomenon which ocurred in the early Turbos as a result of Lotus keeping the cast pistons of the naturally aspirated S1 & S2. These do not react favorably to the turbo environment, and after 36K-40K mi., start to 'crown' from heat cycling. This pulls the rings away from the cylinder liners allowing blow-by and loss of compression. If severe, it can result in a melted piston (ask me how I know).
Lotus solved this problem in '86 by introducing Nikosil alloy liners w/ matched, forged aluminum pistons. You can retrofit these to your car, but at $1200/hole ($4800 for the set), it is cost prohibitive. Greatly more affordable is a set of JE forged aluminum pistons for $800 the set, incl. rings and pins.
Your exhaust leak is likely reused exhaust gaskets gone bad. The fix is a set of multi-laminated ones available from JAE. These absolutely do not leak. Figure about $65 for a set.
Your Turbo not working could be one or all of several causes. A Blown Turbo (remove the air inlet hose to the turbo and run your finger around inside (engine cold). If you have any oil on your finger at all, the seals have gone south requiring a rebuild. Also, if your wastegate is not functioning, this too would prevent you from making any boost. At 55k mi., I would plan on having both rebuilt. Look for a Garrett authorized Disel Truck Turbo repair shop in your area, they can repair both units for under $400. If you cannot find a local one, try Diesel & Import Auto/Truck Service here in Mpls. (www.dieselandimport.com) . They have rebuilt my turbo/wastegate as well as three other Club members Turbos and did an excellent job for hundreds less than I hear others paid. They are a Garrett/Airesearch authorized dealer and repair center and they accept out of state work as well. Ask for Dave, he's the foreman (I have no affiliation whatsoever with them).
For your clutch, again at 55K mi., if it's the original, it should be replaced. Also, the pressure plate, t/o bearing and pilot bearing should also be replaced. Figure $750 if you do it yourself (I did...pretty easy), or $1500 if you have it done. This includes a new rear seal and a turned and balanced flywheel.
Let me know if I can offer any other help or advise. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
Ok....where to begin..?? First things first. Do a general inspection and diagnosis of the engine. Get a compression tester and check each cylinder (engine warm, throttles wide open). Do both a Wet and Dry test on each cylinder. You should see at least 120PSI on each cylinder and a variance between cylinders of no more than 5PSI (which is on the high side), if not, you probably have the makings of Piston Crowning.
PC is a phenomenon which ocurred in the early Turbos as a result of Lotus keeping the cast pistons of the naturally aspirated S1 & S2. These do not react favorably to the turbo environment, and after 36K-40K mi., start to 'crown' from heat cycling. This pulls the rings away from the cylinder liners allowing blow-by and loss of compression. If severe, it can result in a melted piston (ask me how I know).
Lotus solved this problem in '86 by introducing Nikosil alloy liners w/ matched, forged aluminum pistons. You can retrofit these to your car, but at $1200/hole ($4800 for the set), it is cost prohibitive. Greatly more affordable is a set of JE forged aluminum pistons for $800 the set, incl. rings and pins.
Your exhaust leak is likely reused exhaust gaskets gone bad. The fix is a set of multi-laminated ones available from JAE. These absolutely do not leak. Figure about $65 for a set.
Your Turbo not working could be one or all of several causes. A Blown Turbo (remove the air inlet hose to the turbo and run your finger around inside (engine cold). If you have any oil on your finger at all, the seals have gone south requiring a rebuild. Also, if your wastegate is not functioning, this too would prevent you from making any boost. At 55k mi., I would plan on having both rebuilt. Look for a Garrett authorized Disel Truck Turbo repair shop in your area, they can repair both units for under $400. If you cannot find a local one, try Diesel & Import Auto/Truck Service here in Mpls. (www.dieselandimport.com) . They have rebuilt my turbo/wastegate as well as three other Club members Turbos and did an excellent job for hundreds less than I hear others paid. They are a Garrett/Airesearch authorized dealer and repair center and they accept out of state work as well. Ask for Dave, he's the foreman (I have no affiliation whatsoever with them).
For your clutch, again at 55K mi., if it's the original, it should be replaced. Also, the pressure plate, t/o bearing and pilot bearing should also be replaced. Figure $750 if you do it yourself (I did...pretty easy), or $1500 if you have it done. This includes a new rear seal and a turned and balanced flywheel.
Let me know if I can offer any other help or advise. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
Branden,
Just a point of information... You have an '85 Turbo , not an HCI . The HCI stands for High Compression Injected which was introduced in '86. It consisted of the Nikosil alloy cylinder liners w/ matched forged alloy pistons and Bosche K-jetronic fuel injection. The HCI also had the HC timing belt and pulleys and tensioner. No such animal as an '85HCI.
Your '85 Turbo has cast iron cylinder liners and cast alloy pistons w/ twin Dellorto DHLA 45M carburettors. You have a trapezoidal timing belt, pulleys and semi-automatic tensioner. Please note this difference as many parts between the two are not interchangeable. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
Just a point of information... You have an '85 Turbo , not an HCI . The HCI stands for High Compression Injected which was introduced in '86. It consisted of the Nikosil alloy cylinder liners w/ matched forged alloy pistons and Bosche K-jetronic fuel injection. The HCI also had the HC timing belt and pulleys and tensioner. No such animal as an '85HCI.
Your '85 Turbo has cast iron cylinder liners and cast alloy pistons w/ twin Dellorto DHLA 45M carburettors. You have a trapezoidal timing belt, pulleys and semi-automatic tensioner. Please note this difference as many parts between the two are not interchangeable. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
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