Battery problem?
Discussion
My Cerbie discharges very quickly, a small number of days. So, I leave it on trickle charge all the time.
Now that doesn't seem to be doing the trick so I started her yesterday, drove 20 miles or so and put it on full charge (i.e. not a trickle) overnight.
Went to start her today, bearly turned over and wouldn't start. Wiated 20 minutes or so and she started quite easily!
Does this sound like the battery has had it?
If so, what specifications of battery do we need (is it safe to buy a heavier duty one?).
I assume to get at the battery you just remove the 2 allen bolts and the scuttle must be on a lip of some sort.
Cheers, Dave
Now that doesn't seem to be doing the trick so I started her yesterday, drove 20 miles or so and put it on full charge (i.e. not a trickle) overnight.
Went to start her today, bearly turned over and wouldn't start. Wiated 20 minutes or so and she started quite easily!
Does this sound like the battery has had it?
If so, what specifications of battery do we need (is it safe to buy a heavier duty one?).
I assume to get at the battery you just remove the 2 allen bolts and the scuttle must be on a lip of some sort.
Cheers, Dave
Removal should be straight forward, but can often be a challenge due to the proximity of the airbox, you may have to loosen or remove it, but watch out for the vacuum tube attached at the back. Also some folks struggle with the clamp that holds the batery edge down, especially if they have the "double nut" version.
Yes, get the most powerful type you can. I've gone for an Optima Red Top, which has proved good so far, some others recommend a battery with better resistance to deep cycle discharge. Steve_T found a good battery for that (can't remember which one it was though).
Look out for sizing - you need a battery with recessed lugs to fit under the wing, and a lip on the short edge for the clamp (although many ignore this bit due to the snug fit).
Finally, before going to all this trouble, do check that the various connections are done up properly and that the alternator is actually attempting to charge the battery. No point replacing if, if it's not the root problem!
Yes, get the most powerful type you can. I've gone for an Optima Red Top, which has proved good so far, some others recommend a battery with better resistance to deep cycle discharge. Steve_T found a good battery for that (can't remember which one it was though).
Look out for sizing - you need a battery with recessed lugs to fit under the wing, and a lip on the short edge for the clamp (although many ignore this bit due to the snug fit).
Finally, before going to all this trouble, do check that the various connections are done up properly and that the alternator is actually attempting to charge the battery. No point replacing if, if it's not the root problem!
http://www.tayna.co.uk/Optima-Red-Top-RT-S-4.2-P41...
Thats the link for the Red Top, i got one a couple of months ago and its spot on more of an energetic crank than the 072 from Halfords.
You are really best off checking alternator voltages and connections and any sources of drain on your current battery though first, if its a lead acid check theres fluid in all the pots etc.
Thats the link for the Red Top, i got one a couple of months ago and its spot on more of an energetic crank than the 072 from Halfords.
You are really best off checking alternator voltages and connections and any sources of drain on your current battery though first, if its a lead acid check theres fluid in all the pots etc.
Hi Steve, thanks for the chat today, sorry I didn't make the meting. Here's an update
The scuttle comes off easily, 2 allen bolts and slide towards the front of the car. Then, you have to remove the n/s air box. Then you get frustrated as you still cannot remove the battery as a very large bolt is in the the way. I could open 4 cells and one was a little low in water, but the battery is holding 12.8v which sounds good to me (just to annoy me, she started first time tonight).
The alternator is in a stupid place, but the connections seem OK.
So, we are wondering if this means a poor earth to the starter (which is also in a bad place).
I'm going to test the battery again tomorrow to see if it changes.
Also, at the windscreen end of the fuel rail sits a thing that looks like it should have a small vacuum pipe on it. It doesn't have anything on it and we wondered if it should?
Does anyone have any thoughts about the earth on the starter motor please?
The scuttle comes off easily, 2 allen bolts and slide towards the front of the car. Then, you have to remove the n/s air box. Then you get frustrated as you still cannot remove the battery as a very large bolt is in the the way. I could open 4 cells and one was a little low in water, but the battery is holding 12.8v which sounds good to me (just to annoy me, she started first time tonight).
The alternator is in a stupid place, but the connections seem OK.
So, we are wondering if this means a poor earth to the starter (which is also in a bad place).
I'm going to test the battery again tomorrow to see if it changes.
Also, at the windscreen end of the fuel rail sits a thing that looks like it should have a small vacuum pipe on it. It doesn't have anything on it and we wondered if it should?
Does anyone have any thoughts about the earth on the starter motor please?
You have to undo that 'big bolt' to remove the battery, it's holding the battery clamp. If the starter motor lead looks a bit suspect, replace, it.
Just make sure all the connections and the battery terminals are cleaned, and nice and shiny.
That 'thing' by the fuel rail doesn't have anything connected to it.
Just make sure all the connections and the battery terminals are cleaned, and nice and shiny.
That 'thing' by the fuel rail doesn't have anything connected to it.
Halfwits type 072 is the one, but the Amp are only 550, and you will need something over 600 for the cerb.
The origional ones from TVR were 630 Amps, so go for one over 600 amps. I just got one from my local Autofactors, 620 amps type 072 heavy duty.
Considering I have high compression heads, the battery has more than enough power to turn then engine, and it has a 3 year warrenty... £86
Mr F
The origional ones from TVR were 630 Amps, so go for one over 600 amps. I just got one from my local Autofactors, 620 amps type 072 heavy duty.
Considering I have high compression heads, the battery has more than enough power to turn then engine, and it has a 3 year warrenty... £86
Mr F
Gosh what a pain the battery is.
After a huge amount of fiddling to remove the damn thing (by people much more adept than a numpty like me) it finally came off tonight.
Paull at PPC kindly lent me a new battery to try if I should ever get the old one off. Although it was an orignal spec battery, did it take some shoving. Anyhow, when in she starts first time. And again. And again.
Electrics got a bit confused (I assume because of reconnecting a battery) but they're behaving well now.
A simple enough problem, but what a game to fix.
Many thanks to all who have helped, offered advice and support. I'm very happy now
Dave
After a huge amount of fiddling to remove the damn thing (by people much more adept than a numpty like me) it finally came off tonight.
Paull at PPC kindly lent me a new battery to try if I should ever get the old one off. Although it was an orignal spec battery, did it take some shoving. Anyhow, when in she starts first time. And again. And again.
Electrics got a bit confused (I assume because of reconnecting a battery) but they're behaving well now.
A simple enough problem, but what a game to fix.
Many thanks to all who have helped, offered advice and support. I'm very happy now
Dave
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