Balljoint Help Please
Balljoint Help Please
Author
Discussion

V8 Animal

Original Poster:

6,015 posts

241 months

Tuesday 22nd April 2008
quotequote all
Fitting my top and bottom joints tonight came across a problem.
Tightening up the top joint and the bolt keeps spinning can't get pass the nyloc end of the nut needs to go another 4mm
Has anyone have any ideas how to stop this other side of the car is ok.
As i struggled to see had to call it a night did think if i put on the shock and jacked the wishbone maybe this would tighten the bolt?
V8 Animal

chrispitman

742 posts

285 months

Tuesday 22nd April 2008
quotequote all
I had that one too, the solution is to get your self some washers and pack behind the nut until you get the tapered joint pulled tight together then remove the washers and the nyloc will go on.

Barreti

6,689 posts

268 months

Tuesday 22nd April 2008
quotequote all
On my Griff I did exactly what you are thinking of doing V8 Animal and it worked a treat.
Put a bit of wood under the bottom of the balljoint/wishbone and gently pump up the trolley jack to apply pressure but not enough to lift the car off the axle stand because you'll be working in a place where you'll cut your fingers off if it slips.

Good luck.

V8 Animal

Original Poster:

6,015 posts

241 months

Tuesday 22nd April 2008
quotequote all
That's 2 ideas for tommorow night thanks guys.
Also thought maybe a ratchet strap between the wishbones but maybe that may twist the bones.
This has got to have happened to someone else surly not just me it also happened on my westfield but thas was the bottom one and the jack did the trick.
V8 Animal

fenderbender

339 posts

255 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
Any method where you force the taper deeper into the hole will do the trick. I have always used a scissor jack to apply precise amounts of pressure where required when pressure needs to come from bottom up. An old woodworking g-cramp or old valve spring compressor (with screw drive) works well when the pressure needs to be from the top down. You can. of course, make life easier by ensuring both taper and hole are free from lubricant.

HRG

72,863 posts

270 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
I had this problem too. It appears that the taper section on the newer ball joints is fractionally deeper than the hub. I put a washer on mine to pull it into contact but as the taper was proud I left the washer in place.

If you remove the washer with the taper sticking out there is nothing to physically hold the balljoint in place bar the fit of the taper! yikes

fenderbender

339 posts

255 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
Sorry, misunderstood the problem banghead

HRG

72,863 posts

270 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
I tried the trolley jack thing first, expecting that to be the problem. It was only when I looked closer with the jack in place that I saw that the taper was protruding yes

chrispitman

742 posts

285 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
Yes you still need one washer, the method of packing the nut off with washers is to pull the joint tight when the joint is loose and the nyloc bites everything spins and wont tighten.

V8 Animal

Original Poster:

6,015 posts

241 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
chrispitman said:
I had that one too, the solution is to get your self some washers and pack behind the nut until you get the tapered joint pulled tight together then remove the washers and the nyloc will go on.
I understand the theory but won't the bolt still spin?
Paul

350Matt

3,912 posts

310 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
You can also use a spanner to temporarily fill the gap before the nyloc part starts biting, tighten up on the spanner to lock the taper in place then loosen nut, remove spanner, tighten up locknut

Matt

V8 Animal

Original Poster:

6,015 posts

241 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
350Matt said:
You can also use a spanner to temporarily fill the gap before the nyloc part starts biting, tighten up on the spanner to lock the taper in place then loosen nut, remove spanner, tighten up locknut

Matt
You can only get the nut and washer as there is no room it has got to go up the inside of the upright.
If you know what i mean.
Paul

mrcosmos

657 posts

242 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
HI,had the same problem last year when i fitted all new joints.I solved it by fitting a normal nut first,tighten the joint fully then remove the nut and fit the new nyloc nut.Works a treat.Regards,Dave.

V8 Animal

Original Poster:

6,015 posts

241 months

Wednesday 23rd April 2008
quotequote all
Sorted the bugger!
Removed nut after alot of prying bolt spinning opposite way.
Held bolt at top with molegrips screwed on nut past nyloc refitted ok.

Took car out for a few miles front end quiet stiff not much movement did improve slightly.
Saying that balljoints were stiff.
Decided not to adjust anything yet a run up to chatsworth should bed it in abit.
Ride height to top of arch 620mm same as before and 10 clicks back from full about right?
Rears tommorow night should be more straightforward.
Thanks for your help guysthumbup
V8 Animal

chrispitman

742 posts

285 months

Thursday 24th April 2008
quotequote all
Did you reset the camber, I had a set of ball joints like those ones and the ball was too big to slide into the wishbone to get the correct camber. The gen TVR ones have a very small ball.

TVR SUPPLIES

68 posts

243 months

Thursday 24th April 2008
quotequote all
chrispitman said:
Did you reset the camber, I had a set of ball joints like those ones and the ball was too big to slide into the wishbone to get the correct camber. The gen TVR ones have a very small ball.
The ball joints that V8 Animal is using will give maximum adjustment to the back of the slots in the wishbone,provided the correct tvr recommended spacing is used(3mm either side).There are a lot of ball joints that appear similar,that wont give so much adjustment,however.

AntonyJ

5,254 posts

312 months

Thursday 24th April 2008
quotequote all
TVR SUPPLIES said:
chrispitman said:
Did you reset the camber, I had a set of ball joints like those ones and the ball was too big to slide into the wishbone to get the correct camber. The gen TVR ones have a very small ball.
The ball joints that V8 Animal is using will give maximum adjustment to the back of the slots in the wishbone,provided the correct tvr recommended spacing is used(3mm either side).There are a lot of ball joints that appear similar,that wont give so much adjustment,however.
TVR recommended spacing 3mm either side?
My precat has one spacer that goes at the front?

TVR SUPPLIES

68 posts

243 months

Thursday 24th April 2008
quotequote all
AntonyJ said:
TVR SUPPLIES said:
chrispitman said:
Did you reset the camber, I had a set of ball joints like those ones and the ball was too big to slide into the wishbone to get the correct camber. The gen TVR ones have a very small ball.
The ball joints that V8 Animal is using will give maximum adjustment to the back of the slots in the wishbone,provided the correct tvr recommended spacing is used(3mm either side).There are a lot of ball joints that appear similar,that wont give so much adjustment,however.
TVR recommended spacing 3mm either side?
My precat has one spacer that goes at the front?
Originally it was just one 6mm spacer,then TVR could no longer get the smaller head ball joints that they originally used,themselves,so the spacing was modified to accomodate the newer ball joints.Thus the later standard became 2x3mm spacers.This is why you will see the likes of Clever Trevor selling the 3mm spacers for their top ball joints also.
To be honest,it's not an exact science anyway,as if you intend to set the castor angle evenly,you may well find std spacing is not adequate,and the spacing can vary from side to side.Also worth mentioning is that some of the larger head ball joints will still give a camber to the maximum negative value of the std TVR spec ie -1o,even though they will not quite travel far enough to allow the bolts to the very rear of the adjustment slots,ie this maximum adjustment is rarely required.

daz the plumber

14,997 posts

262 months

Thursday 24th April 2008
quotequote all
can you tell me how you know the ball joints are worn cheers

AntonyJ

5,254 posts

312 months

Thursday 24th April 2008
quotequote all
TVR SUPPLIES said:
AntonyJ said:
TVR SUPPLIES said:
chrispitman said:
Did you reset the camber, I had a set of ball joints like those ones and the ball was too big to slide into the wishbone to get the correct camber. The gen TVR ones have a very small ball.
The ball joints that V8 Animal is using will give maximum adjustment to the back of the slots in the wishbone,provided the correct tvr recommended spacing is used(3mm either side).There are a lot of ball joints that appear similar,that wont give so much adjustment,however.
TVR recommended spacing 3mm either side?
My precat has one spacer that goes at the front?
Originally it was just one 6mm spacer,then TVR could no longer get the smaller head ball joints that they originally used,themselves,so the spacing was modified to accomodate the newer ball joints.Thus the later standard became 2x3mm spacers.This is why you will see the likes of Clever Trevor selling the 3mm spacers for their top ball joints also.
To be honest,it's not an exact science anyway,as if you intend to set the castor angle evenly,you may well find std spacing is not adequate,and the spacing can vary from side to side.Also worth mentioning is that some of the larger head ball joints will still give a camber to the maximum negative value of the std TVR spec ie -1o,even though they will not quite travel far enough to allow the bolts to the very rear of the adjustment slots,ie this maximum adjustment is rarely required.
Cheers, thanks for that.