Help needed with fuses, relay and big black box

[streaky]

390SE, chassis # DH5959R1 (factory prototype - so it might be a tad more 'individual' than most).

Anyway, trying to fix the OS wing mirror motor (still can't) and work out why the electric aerial doesn't work (the switch isn't connected!) I came across these conundra:

Fuse box
========

A new layout, not covered in the 'bible': 3 X 7

Fuses are rated:

30 25 25
25 15 30
20 25 30
30 15 30
30 25 30
20 10 20
10 10 30

I could experiment, switching everything on and pulling them one by one ... but has anyone got any idea of what they each protect?

Relay
====

Edited 14Aug03 : It's the Wiper delay module (thx wedg1e).

Black box
=========

Edited 14Aug03 : It's the ECU/EFI (thx jmorgan & wedg1e).

If these questions are answered by the 'bible' just point me to the relevant chapter/pages. Many thx.

Streaky

>>> Edited by streaky on Thursday 14th August 06:22

>>> Edited by streaky on Thursday 14th August 06:29

[jmorgan]

Your box sounds like the ECU. Mine is just tucked up out of the way, not secured really.
I might be wrong here but would a loom simular to existing be used on a prototype? With mods as required for the new stuff?

>> Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 13th August 20:59

[streaky]

jmorgan said:

Your box sounds like the ECU. ...

I think so, the 'bible' refers to the ECU location being in the passenger footwell, next to the relays. My relays are under the glove box.

Streaky

>> Edited by streaky on Wednesday 13th August 21:21

[streaky]

jmorgan said:

... I might be wrong here but would a loom simular to existing be used on a prototype? With mods as required for the new stuff?

I have no idea! Individuality is my car's middle name .

Streaky

[Nacnud]

You're lucky you are!
I've got 40 fuses in my SEAC, all unmarked!

Last time I blew an indicator fuse, my driving lights came on!

TVR electrics

[jmorgan]

Poke and hope time then

[wedg1e]

The 'Pektron' box is the wiper delay module.

The fuel injection wiring loom was a stand-alone piece of wiring even on the Rover/ Rangey. There are only actually about 4 points where it needs to connect to the rest of the car, hence it's easy to add the EFI to a carb car. No reason why yours should be any different to the rest of ours in that respect!
You may find there's about 4 feet of the EFI loom coiled up and tucked out of the way.

Pulling th fuses is probably the quickest way to find out what they protect; however if you pull the fuse box out and list the colours of the wires to each end of each fuse, you should be able to work out from the wiring diagram which does what. If you don't have a diagram, post the colours on here and you'll soon have some answers... ;-)
Ian


>> Edited by wedg1e (twice!) 'cos I can type faster than my RF-linked keyboard can cope...

>> Edited by wedg1e on Thursday 14th August 00:07

[streaky]

wedg1e said:

... Pulling th fuses is probably the quickest way to find out what they protect; however if you pull the fuse box out and list the colours of the wires to each end of each fuse, you should be able to work out from the wiring diagram which does what. If you don't have a diagram, post the colours on here and you'll soon have some answers... ;-) Ian

Duh! Can't believe I didn't think to do that! I blame heat-stroke! I'll try it and revert if there are any circuits I can't identify. Many thanks.

Streaky

[ralph dodds]

I'm sorry, but I think I'd still stick with the pull each fuse individually and see what they do. Apart from the risk of actually breaking joints or pulling wires off as you lower the fuse box, my experience with wedge wiring looms is that they sometimes follow the colour coding but not always. It'll only take 20 minutes after all.

Ralph

[streaky]

I now learn that the 3X7 fuse arrangement was common in the early Tasmins, but the fuses were lower rated that those in the same positions on my board (7.5A -v- 30A in some cases!).

I take the point about pulling the board out completely and will go along the route of pulling each fuse. They're so close together I'll need needle-nose pliers to do that.

The car is off to CATS in Farnham, Surrey (I have no connection with them, but they've done great jobs previously fitting alarms, radios, navigation equipment to various cars of mine in the past) for a Thatcham alarm/immobiliser as insisted upon by my insurers. They also want locking wheel nuts so an order with Wedge Engineering/RTS (?) is being compiled.

This means that investigation of the fuses will have to wait until the weekend (hope it stays fine!). It also means that I can't play today .

I'm still hoping someone can save me the trouble of pulling each fuse .

BTW (and a silly question as I don't know which fuses are which) are there any fuses I shouldn't pull?

Streaky

[wedg1e]

streaky said:

BTW (and a silly question as I don't know which fuses are which) are there any fuses I shouldn't pull? Streaky

Only the one for the stereo, if you don't have the code...

[streaky]

wedg1e said:

streaky said: BTW (and a silly question as I don't know which fuses are which) are there any fuses I shouldn't pull? Streaky Only the one for the stereo, if you don't have the code...

Good point! I'll run a feed from the battery to the radio before I start pulling fuses.