Steering and over heating problems
Discussion
I am sure my car hates me or hates being driven!!!
The steering doesn't centralise and feels very heavy, is that a steering rack problem and if so does anyone know where who to contact, I am in southampton.
I have a bit of play/rattle when i move the the front n/s wheel top to bottom even though it has just passed an mot?? Bearing??
The electric fan doesn't (may never have) work, what Temp should it kick in?Are they easy to replace or troubleshoot?I changed the radiator and since then the header tank sometimes over pressurises and chucks out all the water, what could cause this? Air lock?
Loads of questions from me as usual sorry.
Many thanks Mike
The steering doesn't centralise and feels very heavy, is that a steering rack problem and if so does anyone know where who to contact, I am in southampton.
I have a bit of play/rattle when i move the the front n/s wheel top to bottom even though it has just passed an mot?? Bearing??
The electric fan doesn't (may never have) work, what Temp should it kick in?Are they easy to replace or troubleshoot?I changed the radiator and since then the header tank sometimes over pressurises and chucks out all the water, what could cause this? Air lock?
Loads of questions from me as usual sorry.
Many thanks Mike
The rad fans are controlled by the 'otter' switch which is on the n/s of the rad& held on by a clip. If this is knackered it's best to leave it where it is and use the wires that feed it to connect to a 'Kenlowe' type adjustable job so you can controll the temp the fan comes on.
Edited by pwd95 on Friday 25th April 22:59
pwd95 said:
The rad fans are controlled by the 'otter' switch which is on the n/s of the rad& held on by a clip. If this is knackered it's best to leave it where it is and use the wires that feed it to connect to a 'Kenlowe' type adjustable job so you can controll the temp the fan comes on.
The wires seem to go directly to the fan from the loom? I hope this hasn't been bodged, just noticed that the fuse was missing from the box,seems this may have been an ongoing problem.wedgtable said:
I am sure my car hates me or hates being driven!!!
The steering doesn't centralise and feels very heavy, is that a steering rack problem and if so does anyone know where who to contact, I am in southampton.
I have a bit of play/rattle when i move the the front n/s wheel top to bottom even though it has just passed an mot?? Bearing??
The electric fan doesn't (may never have) work, what Temp should it kick in?Are they easy to replace or troubleshoot?I changed the radiator and since then the header tank sometimes over pressurises and chucks out all the water, what could cause this? Air lock?
Loads of questions from me as usual sorry.
Many thanks Mike
My suggestion for investigating the stiff steering (assuming it's not knackered power steering) would be to jack the front up and check for ease of movement with the weight off the wheels. Both by spinning the steering wheel and by twisting from lock to lock by holding the wheels. This would highlight any obvious tight spots. Then check all joints for wear, if they are all OK then get the tracking checked (check the tyre pressures are OK as well).The steering doesn't centralise and feels very heavy, is that a steering rack problem and if so does anyone know where who to contact, I am in southampton.
I have a bit of play/rattle when i move the the front n/s wheel top to bottom even though it has just passed an mot?? Bearing??
The electric fan doesn't (may never have) work, what Temp should it kick in?Are they easy to replace or troubleshoot?I changed the radiator and since then the header tank sometimes over pressurises and chucks out all the water, what could cause this? Air lock?
Loads of questions from me as usual sorry.
Many thanks Mike
As for the fan / water loss problems, air locks are a common problem so make sure they are bled out. If the fan isn't working then the water loss is almost certainly overheating! Not good! What temperature are you getting on the gauge? Is it working?
I have the otter switch overridden with a manual switch on mine as the otter switch is tucked up out of the air flow so once it switches the fan on it never gets cool enough to switch it off again, resulting in burnt out relays on a long trip!
You need to make sure the cooling system is filled correctly. Undo both water caps - make sure the blank cap goes to the swan neck and the pressure cap to the header tank - if not the car will boil with lots of back pressure which is very dangerous.
Start the car and run at a high idle topping the level through the swan neck air bubbles will evaporate through the swan neck. I always over fil the header too. Depending on your stat's opening temp eventually it will open - drop the revs and continue topping up the swan neck until the water starts to boil over - replace both caps. Take the car for a spin, allow to cool and top up the header.
With regard the steering - check all the UJ's in the column - excess play normally means the ball joints have worn out - easy job to replace if you have the tools and are readily available at cheap prices.
Start the car and run at a high idle topping the level through the swan neck air bubbles will evaporate through the swan neck. I always over fil the header too. Depending on your stat's opening temp eventually it will open - drop the revs and continue topping up the swan neck until the water starts to boil over - replace both caps. Take the car for a spin, allow to cool and top up the header.
With regard the steering - check all the UJ's in the column - excess play normally means the ball joints have worn out - easy job to replace if you have the tools and are readily available at cheap prices.
wedgienauld said:
steering column knuckle(s)
A good dousing with plus gas, and then a good coating with grease can help with this problem. Some people have even adapted rubber gaiters to cover the UJ's and packed them with grease.
My fan usually kicks in around 90 on the gauge, but I also have a manual override switch fitted so that I can anticipate any traffic, and kick the fans in early.
Air locks are a real problem, it might be worth having the system pressure bled, or even fitting a bleed valve into one of the pipes that goes to the heater matrix, as some wedge owners have done.
Here's a handy link to a filling the cooling system guide for the RV8. Someone posted this a while back.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/TipsAndT...
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/TipsAndT...
Thanks Guys,
i have refilled the system as per the guide and it seems much better.The gauge does work and fluctuates between 80 and 40 (so thermostat works) when moving hotest it has got is just over 90 and then the water bubbled out (engine stopped well before it got near the red mark!!). Is the over ride switch easy to fit??? I am thinking that prehaps the relay is burnt out then, and that is why the fuse was removed, so will go and have a play with that.
There is some play in the steering wheel which is suppose could be the column UJ but it has always been well greased since I have had the car. I think I will go around and check every bolt, bearing and ball joint. Just seems strange that it has just passed MOT. Could the things suggested be reasons for steering not centralising??
Mike
i have refilled the system as per the guide and it seems much better.The gauge does work and fluctuates between 80 and 40 (so thermostat works) when moving hotest it has got is just over 90 and then the water bubbled out (engine stopped well before it got near the red mark!!). Is the over ride switch easy to fit??? I am thinking that prehaps the relay is burnt out then, and that is why the fuse was removed, so will go and have a play with that.
There is some play in the steering wheel which is suppose could be the column UJ but it has always been well greased since I have had the car. I think I will go around and check every bolt, bearing and ball joint. Just seems strange that it has just passed MOT. Could the things suggested be reasons for steering not centralising??
Mike
It's a little way from you but if you don't want to faff yourself call Terry at Garnham and Cook in Gosport. My wedge is there at the mo for a service and MOT (including draining and re-filling the coolant. Terry has worked on wedges, S, chim and Griff (Woody - Hants TVRCC RO) as quite a few of us round here use him, he is a good lad.
Paul
Paul
You can check the fan works through all the electrical system by shorting out the otter switch. Which temperature it comes on depends on the switch and if it is working. But the otter switch has two lucars on so get some piggy back lucars and slot it all together with the pair of override wires into the cab and to the back of a suitable make/break switch.
Fuse, should be one? Mine was melted but I think the seized bearing on the fan caused that. Also checking the fan can get a false indication with the blades on. Listen for a grinding noise, like sand in the bearing, to see if it is on the way out.
Fuse, should be one? Mine was melted but I think the seized bearing on the fan caused that. Also checking the fan can get a false indication with the blades on. Listen for a grinding noise, like sand in the bearing, to see if it is on the way out.
I replaced the fan and rad on a kit car with a Rover rad + fan set up which ran constantly resulting in a cold engine. So I bought a thermostat and temp switch from a kit car supplier which was easy to fit and worked a treat. I fed a live feed to the rad fan and interrupted this with the wiring from the thermostat kit. A temp probe was then inserted into the top hose by slipping it under the jubilee clip (I used a bit of sealant to avoid leaks) and then the temp switch was mounted in the car under the dash which meant I could set the temp at whatever I wanted whenever I wanted. I'm not sure, but I think there was an optional temp gauge but I was too tght to buy this. I can't remember the precise cost of the kit but it was under £30. I can dig out the details if you email me. Regards, Mark
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