Have-a-go-Hero

[catretriever]

I decided to take the plunge and have a go at spraying the repaired rear corner of my TVR S1 over the weekend, figuring I couldn't make it look worse than it's current state (bare splotches of fibreglass and filler over an area of about 1 sq metre). I'm not trying to achieve show-car results here, just trying to make it look like it isn't made of plasticine

It went a lot better than I'd hoped in some respects and I managed to get a resonably even finish. However, rather than a nice glossy paint finish I'm getting a fairly rough matt finish.

I have some clear coat ready to apply, but I'm not sure if I should be applying it now or if there is some rubbing down of the paint to do first, or if I've just made a balls up of it and need to either start again or take it to a professional.

I know there are plenty of people who could do a much better job than me, and I may be kidding myself, but it's a skill I'd like to develop so any advice over and above 'take it to a pro' would be greatfully received.

cheers,

Matt

[dilbert]

I'm not an expert at this at all. In fact if I spray anything, I invariably get the finish you describe. It's all about preparation.

Lack of dust is a biggie (try sweeping (better hoovering) up two days before and wetting the floor down in the morning and evening of those two days.

I think though, if you're getting a (sandtex) matt finish, it's probably because your pressure is to high. I guess you can compensate for a higher pressure with thinner paint (and vice versa), but if you go too thin, then you have to put on thousands of coats to get coverage.

I'd say muck about with the variables, beforehand on a sheet of something similar to the target. If you start on the target, you can end up wasting all the preparation.

Edited by dilbert on Tuesday 6th May 11:38

[catretriever]

Thank's for the tip. I forgot to mention that I'm using aerosols for this job so don't have any control over the pressure.

What I'm wondering I suppose is whether the glossy finish should be present immediately, or if there's a buffing stage I need to go through.

[dilbert]

catretriever said:

Thank's for the tip. I forgot to mention that I'm using aerosols for this job so don't have any control over the pressure.

What I'm wondering I suppose is whether the glossy finish should be present immediately, or if there's a buffing stage I need to go through.

Aha!
I don't think I've ever had any success with aerosol cans. I think the only options you have there are to make sure the nozzle isn't bunged, and to shake the can some more. Oddly one never seems to be able to shake them enough.

[catretriever]

So that would imply that the pressure was too low?

I must admit that I was working on the premise that the finer each coat of paint was the better the finish would be. But it sounds like I've been applying it too finely at too great a distance.

I think I will have a go at it with some rubbing compound to see if I can't improve things a bit.

[CNHSS1]

have you clear lacquered the paint finish? if not thats the possible problem. iirc the Halfords range of metallics say they require overcoating with the lacquer to get the shiny finish your after.

[catretriever]

I haven't applied the laquer yet as I wasn't sure if their was a step to complete in between that and the base coat.

Thanks for the tip, I'll try applying the laquer on a non-obvious area and check the results.

[RossB_eg4]

Try shaking the can then leaving them upright in warm water (only a small amount so no water gets anywhere near the nossle) for 5mins or so before spraying, makes the paint less viscious and allows the paint to flow and stick to the surface alot better, avoiding the matt orange peel effect you often get from a can

[catretriever]

I did read somewhere else on the interweb that ambient temperature might be the problem. A minimum temp of 22 celcius was suggested, so it looks like this is the week for it

I'll give the warm water thing a try....thanks.

[dilbert]

Sorry I didn't get back, I run strange timing, so I was in bed by the time you posted.

TBH, I don't know. As I say I'm not an expert at all, I just realised a long time ago, that aerosol cans, rarely give you what you want. If it's a non metallic paint, I guess, just get it on there, wait until it has completely dried, and then do the rest with wet & dry, t-cut, and perhaps lacquer.

I have never (ever) seen a metallic colour match out of a can, so I've never bothered to try.

I think that spray cans are really only intended for small items, and perhaps bits of trim. I used to use them for that. Some time ago I bought a really cheap airbrush for model making. As airbrushes go it's not a great one (mainly plastic - but metal nozzles), but compared with an aerosol, it masses better. You can mix paint consistently (use a syringe), and have total control over the pressure, and the quantity of solvent in the paint. I just use it with Humbrol enamel, and even for small car parts it works really well.

It might not be so great for exterior stuff, although I don't think there would be too many problems, unfortunately my car is two pack metallic, so I would have to send it away to be done anyhow. Certainly I wouldn't shy away from items like maybe the painted back of a foglight, or trim items like caps and frames, with good old Humbrol. Especially when they're looking a bit shabby, but I'm certainly not an artist. I don't try to be, but that's no reason not to go for a proper spray setup.

If I was going to consider a whole panel, I'd get a proper spraygun now. A cheap gun (new) is like £20, and a usable (if not excellent) compressor can be had new for £70. You could get a good secondhand one for £50, like I did from the local free ad. I reckon you could do the lot including cellulose paint (if it's not fancy stuff) for less than £100.

Edited by dilbert on Wednesday 7th May 03:47