Exhaust manifold removal
Discussion
Time to remove the exhaust manifolds and weld the cracks. Any advice on removal, repair and replacement appreciated. I'll be doing the job with a local garage. I'm sure I read that the engine mounts need removing and the engine pushing to one side. Roughly how long will it take to remove the manifolds?
I have just had mine done at a local garage. They didnt move the engine but had to do a lot of the work from underneath and used a cut down allen key.
They charged me for 5 hours as i had agreed with them but said it took more like 7! Worth taking your time and getting it right though.
They charged me for 5 hours as i had agreed with them but said it took more like 7! Worth taking your time and getting it right though.
I'm pretty sure from other oposts and experience that you cannot get the drivers side out without moving the engine.
Passenger is easy. But driver side the easiest way is to undo the bottom of the rubber engine mount and release one end of the steering column. Then lift the engine enough to slide it in.
Bolts are from above and below, ratchet spanners help a lot. Invest in some stainless ones when you refit, along with some copperslip.
Passenger is easy. But driver side the easiest way is to undo the bottom of the rubber engine mount and release one end of the steering column. Then lift the engine enough to slide it in.
Bolts are from above and below, ratchet spanners help a lot. Invest in some stainless ones when you refit, along with some copperslip.
I found the easiest way to get the off side manifold off was to remove the two bolts that go through the engine mounts. Then support the engine on a block of wood and a jack and completely remove the near side engine mounting plate. (5 nuts o unfasten IIRC)
Then its easy to jack up the engine a fraction and push it towards the nearside which allows enough room to get the off side manifold removed.
Just jacking up the engine didn't give enough clearance. The engine needs to move sideways and the mounting plates catch the chassis if you try to jack it up too high.
Then its easy to jack up the engine a fraction and push it towards the nearside which allows enough room to get the off side manifold removed.
Just jacking up the engine didn't give enough clearance. The engine needs to move sideways and the mounting plates catch the chassis if you try to jack it up too high.
Agree with the comments about undoing the engine mounts and stuff. I will be swapping my manifolds over to ACT ones in the next few weeks so will take lots of pics and do a small 'how to'. Also considering linked decats as well.
If anyone needs a set of standard 4.2 manifolds that have been ceramic coated and wrapped, give me a bell. I believe they did crack with the last owner but have not done so in the 3.5 years I've owned the car. Good plug ref the coppaslip - I use it on most if not all engine bay bolt threads, including the spark plugs.
If anyone needs a set of standard 4.2 manifolds that have been ceramic coated and wrapped, give me a bell. I believe they did crack with the last owner but have not done so in the 3.5 years I've owned the car. Good plug ref the coppaslip - I use it on most if not all engine bay bolt threads, including the spark plugs.
It keeps the heat in the exhaust manifolds and not in the engine bay, so preserves stuff such as chassis rails and fuel lines. A side effect is it supposedly increases power by keeping the exhaust gas temp as high as possible, although I did it mainly for the first reason.
Err... used Black Satin and did it myself!
Err... used Black Satin and did it myself!
Edited by longbow on Thursday 8th May 09:20
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