Engine problems!
Discussion
I've just bought my first TVR - a 1999 Chimaera 450 with 58k miles. However, this isnt a happy first post - as I think I've got a fairly major engine problem. When I bought it, it was low on oil - I topped it up, but there's now a knocking noise coming from low down in the engine which is getting worse. Also, when the engine is hot the oil pressure gets very low indeed. The engine doesnt smoke at all and is otherwise quiet. I'm pretty sure that it's one of the big ends... and I drained the oil to find it had lots of metal flecks in it. Not a good start to TVR ownership.
At this stage I'm hoping that the flecks are from the bearing shells and replacing them will cure the knock, but am worried that the damage could more more extensive (e.g. needing a reground crank). So a few questions:
1) Can the bearing shells be replaced with the engine in situ?
2) Are there different size bearing shells, or are they the same in all Rover V8 4.6 engines?
3) Has anyone done this job or had a similar problem?
Also, if it's the crankshaft, can anyone advise how tricky it is to remove the engine (i.e. is it a long job), and how easy is it to replace the crankshaft?
Cheers
John
At this stage I'm hoping that the flecks are from the bearing shells and replacing them will cure the knock, but am worried that the damage could more more extensive (e.g. needing a reground crank). So a few questions:
1) Can the bearing shells be replaced with the engine in situ?
2) Are there different size bearing shells, or are they the same in all Rover V8 4.6 engines?
3) Has anyone done this job or had a similar problem?
Also, if it's the crankshaft, can anyone advise how tricky it is to remove the engine (i.e. is it a long job), and how easy is it to replace the crankshaft?
Cheers
John
Edited by johnnyBv8 on Wednesday 7th May 22:36
I've changed bearing shells in situ on my wedge so it should be possible, probably harder to remove the sump as its a proper ally casting but hopefully there's room.
I found the mains were more heavily worn than the big ends and to change the mains in the block I modified a small screw to sit in the oil feed hole of the crank so just head sticks out
You then turn the crank over on the front nut and it winds the old shell out, you can then wind the new shell in the same way
Matt
I found the mains were more heavily worn than the big ends and to change the mains in the block I modified a small screw to sit in the oil feed hole of the crank so just head sticks out
You then turn the crank over on the front nut and it winds the old shell out, you can then wind the new shell in the same way
Matt
As you say you 'have just bought' this TVR', despite caveat emptor, it could be suggested the car was 'starved of oil' upon receipt. I would then recommend contacting the seller and at least try to negotiate some recompense once you have determined any possible damage and repair costs.
Good Luck and let us know how you get on.
Good Luck and let us know how you get on.
kenny Chim 4 said:
As you say you 'have just bought' this TVR', despite caveat emptor, it could be suggested the car was 'starved of oil' upon receipt. I would then recommend contacting the seller and at least try to negotiate some recompense once you have determined any possible damage and repair costs.
Good Luck and let us know how you get on.
Cheers - I did think that, but I bought privately so doubt I have much chance. Just trying to work out the solution first!Good Luck and let us know how you get on.
Hi Johnny, I should've added that it's perfectly normal for the oil pressure to decrease (down to 15 on mine) as the engine warms.
With regards to the worrying noise, it could well be just a blown manifold gasket. When that occurs, the sound really can be metalically mechanical- if you know what I mean, rising in sync with revs. Get the car checked out via a trusted indepenent garage.
Our cars may be deemed exotic but their guts are (fairly) basic and easy to work on/rectify.
With regards to the worrying noise, it could well be just a blown manifold gasket. When that occurs, the sound really can be metalically mechanical- if you know what I mean, rising in sync with revs. Get the car checked out via a trusted indepenent garage.
Our cars may be deemed exotic but their guts are (fairly) basic and easy to work on/rectify.
Hi John,
Sorry to hear this and I hope you get it sorted quickly and the bill isnt too big. Not sure if you are mechanically minded (I'm not!) so I agree with previous post, and suggest you get a good independent to look at it before you do anything. Not sure I would be so "understanding" with the seller either! Whatever you do there will be loads of help and advice from this forum as there are some really great and very experienced guys on here. Good luck
Sorry to hear this and I hope you get it sorted quickly and the bill isnt too big. Not sure if you are mechanically minded (I'm not!) so I agree with previous post, and suggest you get a good independent to look at it before you do anything. Not sure I would be so "understanding" with the seller either! Whatever you do there will be loads of help and advice from this forum as there are some really great and very experienced guys on here. Good luck
I have the same engine and year as you, make shure you check the rear most cross bolts with allen heads as mine were completely loose as TVR fitted the wrong size washer/rubber (can think of the name but a metal/rubber bonded washer) basically on mine the metal part was bigger than the head of the bolt so TVR torqued them up on the rubber washer part and then they become loose.
If you need to change the big end bearings this might come in handy
http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/engine...
http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/engine...
kenny Chim 4 said:
With regards to the worrying noise, it could well be just a blown manifold gasket.
I'd initially hoped that afetr reading these forums, but unfortunately the metal flecks point to something more sinister. My local Land Rover garage have confirmed that it does sound like big ends.The engine manual link is very helpful - thanks RedV8.
Has anyone else had any similar experiences...any more suggestions re my initial questions gratefully received!
350Matt said:
I've changed bearing shells in situ on my wedge so it should be possible, probably harder to remove the sump as its a proper ally casting but hopefully there's room.
Matt,Did you change the conrod bolts, or reuse the original ones? They're stretch bolts so assume they should be replaced, but none of the landrover parts suppliers seem to sell them. Rimmer Bros are the only place that do, making me wonder whether they need to be replaced after all!
Well, despite a TVR specialist saying it must be big ends, I dropped the sum and checked all the shells... virtually no wear. Engine internals were very clean, the crosshatching was still visible on the bores, no sludge etc etc - basically in very good nick!
So, perhaps it is camshaft after all - next on the list to check. Also wondered if it could be a sticking hydraulic lifter...the car has been stored for a while.
Anyone know where would be the best (cheapest!) place to buy a new camshaft (and followers etc).
Cheers
So, perhaps it is camshaft after all - next on the list to check. Also wondered if it could be a sticking hydraulic lifter...the car has been stored for a while.
Anyone know where would be the best (cheapest!) place to buy a new camshaft (and followers etc).
Cheers
John
Sounds like a camshaft to me . .. mine went very quickly once the lobe had worn from a slight knock to a proper "oh bugger, something major is fooked" . ..
Not difficult to whip it out and have a look at all. I did mine, diagnosed the problem then decided with the amount of bits of metal flying around the engine to take it out of the car and give it to V8D. Not cheap, but worth it
Where abouts in Norfolk are you ?
Sounds like a camshaft to me . .. mine went very quickly once the lobe had worn from a slight knock to a proper "oh bugger, something major is fooked" . ..
Not difficult to whip it out and have a look at all. I did mine, diagnosed the problem then decided with the amount of bits of metal flying around the engine to take it out of the car and give it to V8D. Not cheap, but worth it
Where abouts in Norfolk are you ?
When my cam went in my 450 I had a knocking noise. This was caused as I later discovered by cracked cam bearings, there were bits of metal in the sump and movement in the cam was causing the noise. The block has to come out as the cam bearing at the back is impossible to get to otherwise, it also has to be pressed into place.
Lucky you have investigated and caught this early I think, bits of metal floating around isn't good and the last thing you want is a damaged crank (they're quite expensive). Suggest you go and see an experienced Rover v8 builder.
It could well be a manifold gasket, this is very common and doesn't sound as you'd expect. I took the opportunity to have a serious rebuild, co-incidentally mine was a 450 at 59,000 miles. Hope it works out for you though.
Lucky you have investigated and caught this early I think, bits of metal floating around isn't good and the last thing you want is a damaged crank (they're quite expensive). Suggest you go and see an experienced Rover v8 builder.
It could well be a manifold gasket, this is very common and doesn't sound as you'd expect. I took the opportunity to have a serious rebuild, co-incidentally mine was a 450 at 59,000 miles. Hope it works out for you though.
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