E46 328i - likely problems?
Discussion
I may be inheriting a E46 328i Saloon soon. Unsure as to whether to move it on or sell the Z4M and keep it for a few months (and buy a motorbike)
W plate. Think it's a SE Auto. It's done 100k and has been well maintained. What bits are starting to go at that mileage? How are the servicing costs at independents? How reliable are they proving to be?
W plate. Think it's a SE Auto. It's done 100k and has been well maintained. What bits are starting to go at that mileage? How are the servicing costs at independents? How reliable are they proving to be?
Edited by john_p on Wednesday 14th May 12:49
All early E46s have little niggles - electrical mainly - but are pretty reliable things. Wear and tear is limited to the usual BMW stuff like wheel bearings, radius arm bushes.
The ZF autobox is probably getting tired if it's spent it's entire life in city traffic.
Other than that, they're nice cars. Suitable for a grinder perhaps?
Oh, if it's got black montana leather with integrated rear child seats, I'll p/ex the rear bench with you?
The ZF autobox is probably getting tired if it's spent it's entire life in city traffic.
Other than that, they're nice cars. Suitable for a grinder perhaps?
Oh, if it's got black montana leather with integrated rear child seats, I'll p/ex the rear bench with you?

Easiest way to diagnose any potential gremlins with the autobox is thus;
1) Cold select: Start it up when cold. Select D, then R, then D, then R. Whilst the engagement of each gear can be a bit physical when cold, there shouldn't be any clonking/thumping/banging
2) Cold Shift: It should hang onto gears a bit longer during cold cycle, but should still shift smoothly without hesitation.
3) Stall Test: When it's thoroughly warmed. Stationary in D, hold footbrake, gently bring revs up. The engine should begin to stall around 1800rpm. If it doesn't it could be the Torque Convertor is slipping
4) Band Strength test: Again hot. Stationary - full bore acceleration in S mode (S mode engages 1st gear as 2nd is always used in E). You're looking/feeling/listening for what feels like clutch slip, normally immediately after shift up when the torque can overwhelm the band or TC, or when it comes on power around 4000rpm.
5) Gear Hunting - these boxes can gear hunt if they're worn out, normally between 4th and 5th. Accelerate gradually up to the point it shifts into top, noting the RPM it shifts at. Deccelerate slightly below that RPM, then gradually bring up to that point again (avoiding kickdown) and hold speed at reasonable throttle (more than coasting). If it starts flapping between 4th and 5th constantly then you have gear hunting. Not good.
1) Cold select: Start it up when cold. Select D, then R, then D, then R. Whilst the engagement of each gear can be a bit physical when cold, there shouldn't be any clonking/thumping/banging
2) Cold Shift: It should hang onto gears a bit longer during cold cycle, but should still shift smoothly without hesitation.
3) Stall Test: When it's thoroughly warmed. Stationary in D, hold footbrake, gently bring revs up. The engine should begin to stall around 1800rpm. If it doesn't it could be the Torque Convertor is slipping
4) Band Strength test: Again hot. Stationary - full bore acceleration in S mode (S mode engages 1st gear as 2nd is always used in E). You're looking/feeling/listening for what feels like clutch slip, normally immediately after shift up when the torque can overwhelm the band or TC, or when it comes on power around 4000rpm.
5) Gear Hunting - these boxes can gear hunt if they're worn out, normally between 4th and 5th. Accelerate gradually up to the point it shifts into top, noting the RPM it shifts at. Deccelerate slightly below that RPM, then gradually bring up to that point again (avoiding kickdown) and hold speed at reasonable throttle (more than coasting). If it starts flapping between 4th and 5th constantly then you have gear hunting. Not good.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


