Discussion
Just thought I'd update you on my progress with my new toy. Absolutely loving it so far!! The handling is just unreal and the acceleration is great. I know the Toyota engine has the 2nd cam at about 6000 rpm but the k series does offer a kick at about 5500, which I find quite noticeable. The engine also changes up a note soundwise too - love it. Is that the VVC?
Cleaned it twice in just over a week but it is being kept under a car cover so don't want it scratching.
I'm still getting used to it and don't want to push my luck too far around corners yet. Would you say the car tells you when it will let go or could it be a quite sudden loss of control? Does any one know of a course or day I can do that allows you to try driving the car hard enough to spin etc to get to know the car better? I've done plenty of track days but the idea is not to loose control and spin. I want to know my cars limits and how it reacts when they are exceeded.
One more thing. Does anyone else ever get a small amount of coolent splash on the front bonet (front right hand side looking out of the car? I guess this is the overflow pipe and when pushed hard the car is chucking some out??? any ideas?
Overall view - well worth every penny!! Even my dad has admitted he loves it!
Cleaned it twice in just over a week but it is being kept under a car cover so don't want it scratching.
I'm still getting used to it and don't want to push my luck too far around corners yet. Would you say the car tells you when it will let go or could it be a quite sudden loss of control? Does any one know of a course or day I can do that allows you to try driving the car hard enough to spin etc to get to know the car better? I've done plenty of track days but the idea is not to loose control and spin. I want to know my cars limits and how it reacts when they are exceeded.
One more thing. Does anyone else ever get a small amount of coolent splash on the front bonet (front right hand side looking out of the car? I guess this is the overflow pipe and when pushed hard the car is chucking some out??? any ideas?
Overall view - well worth every penny!! Even my dad has admitted he loves it!
The 111S has a valve in the exhaust which opens the second exhaust port at a particular engine speed. That's what's causing your engine note change.
Rover's VVC is a continuously variable system (unlike Honda and Toyota engines which simply switch between two cams at a particular engine speed) so there should be no noticeable surge at any point in the rev range. Mine pulls harder over about 5500rpm but the extra power doesn't come in suddenly.
Rover's VVC is a continuously variable system (unlike Honda and Toyota engines which simply switch between two cams at a particular engine speed) so there should be no noticeable surge at any point in the rev range. Mine pulls harder over about 5500rpm but the extra power doesn't come in suddenly.
Edited by kambites on Monday 19th May 13:36
Sounds like you have a leak. Did you buy it from a dealer or used car showroom? I'd get that checked before anything else - it may just be a loose pipe but if it's the radiator it can go and you'll lose all coolant. Sorry to be the bearer of potentially bad news 
If it is the worst case scenario of a radiator, don't get another Lotus one, they're notorious for failing as the ends are made of plastic and will split. Get an all-alloy one from Eliseparts or Proalloy. The former sells one that is only a few quid more than Lotus charge. It's a clam-off job so will add at least an hour's labour to the job. Consider getting a few jobs done at the same time, such as a new radiator fan, get the heater resistor pack checked for corrosion and perhaps braided brake lines, this will save you money in the long run.
The back end can be difficult to catch, so worth considering a driving course at Carlimits. However, you shouldn't need to go at tyre-slipping speeds on public roads, so take it easy at first.
If it is the worst case scenario of a radiator, don't get another Lotus one, they're notorious for failing as the ends are made of plastic and will split. Get an all-alloy one from Eliseparts or Proalloy. The former sells one that is only a few quid more than Lotus charge. It's a clam-off job so will add at least an hour's labour to the job. Consider getting a few jobs done at the same time, such as a new radiator fan, get the heater resistor pack checked for corrosion and perhaps braided brake lines, this will save you money in the long run.
The back end can be difficult to catch, so worth considering a driving course at Carlimits. However, you shouldn't need to go at tyre-slipping speeds on public roads, so take it easy at first.
Edited by kevin ritson on Monday 19th May 13:53
I've never had any coolant splash, as is said above, it sounds like you have a small leak somewhere.
A circuit day would be a great idea to get used to the handling of your car, especially with some tuition. In the dry, you should definitely feel the car start to approach the limit before it crosses it (this applies to any car, but especially an Elise), but once it crosses the limit that's not the end of the world of course! The Elise has a huge bias of grip over power, so shouldn't cause you too many problems on that side of things. Just remember to keep it smooth, give the car gentle inputs and feel what is going on through: the seat of your pants, the balance of the car, and the feel through the steering (grip the wheel lightly and gently feel it through your palms). Only build things up when you're totally comfortable with what the car's up to and what it's telling you. To be quite frank the Elise has such a balmy amount of grip you shouldn't ever really be getting close to it on the road.
A circuit day would be a great idea to get used to the handling of your car, especially with some tuition. In the dry, you should definitely feel the car start to approach the limit before it crosses it (this applies to any car, but especially an Elise), but once it crosses the limit that's not the end of the world of course! The Elise has a huge bias of grip over power, so shouldn't cause you too many problems on that side of things. Just remember to keep it smooth, give the car gentle inputs and feel what is going on through: the seat of your pants, the balance of the car, and the feel through the steering (grip the wheel lightly and gently feel it through your palms). Only build things up when you're totally comfortable with what the car's up to and what it's telling you. To be quite frank the Elise has such a balmy amount of grip you shouldn't ever really be getting close to it on the road.
Thanks for all the advise. Will look into that course and as said on the public roads I should be well within the cars capabilites.
As for the leak I have just had the car serviced at Bell & Colvill and they picked nothing up. And there was me hoping and thinking nothing needs doing!! Any idea of what supply and fix of a new rad is?
As for the leak I have just had the car serviced at Bell & Colvill and they picked nothing up. And there was me hoping and thinking nothing needs doing!! Any idea of what supply and fix of a new rad is?
dubsey said:
Thanks for all the advise. Will look into that course and as said on the public roads I should be well within the cars capabilites.
As for the leak I have just had the car serviced at Bell & Colvill and they picked nothing up. And there was me hoping and thinking nothing needs doing!! Any idea of what supply and fix of a new rad is?
It might be just a coolant pipe. Given the horizontal placement of the radiator (i.e. away from flying debris), I would guess that a pipe is more likely. See if you can find the source of the drip.As for the leak I have just had the car serviced at Bell & Colvill and they picked nothing up. And there was me hoping and thinking nothing needs doing!! Any idea of what supply and fix of a new rad is?
Agreed that a pipe is more likely.
There is a design flaw in the radiator that can lead it to fail (the end caps are made of a plastic which becomes brittle with age and/or heat - not sure which) but when that lets go, it tends to be in a big way.
If you do replace the radiator, get an all aluminium one (for example http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page... ) rather than a direct replacement. It's not cheap to have it replaced because it involves taking the clam off. If you do take the clam off, get the heater resistor pack sorted out while it's off. Cheap part, expensive to fix when it breaks (and it will break unless you only use the car in the dry, the fix for the problem just involved drilling a few holes to stop water accumulating around the resistor pack).
There is a design flaw in the radiator that can lead it to fail (the end caps are made of a plastic which becomes brittle with age and/or heat - not sure which) but when that lets go, it tends to be in a big way.
If you do replace the radiator, get an all aluminium one (for example http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page... ) rather than a direct replacement. It's not cheap to have it replaced because it involves taking the clam off. If you do take the clam off, get the heater resistor pack sorted out while it's off. Cheap part, expensive to fix when it breaks (and it will break unless you only use the car in the dry, the fix for the problem just involved drilling a few holes to stop water accumulating around the resistor pack).
If it's just starting to go it can be difficult to pick up on - usually you notice coolant levels dropping a little, then it's often only when you spot coolant marks on the service panels. May be worth taking the panel off and running the engine to check for leaks - just don't stick your head right in there as if the rad does go you'll be covered in very hot liquid!
dubsey said:
Ok I will have a look into it. Try and find out where it is coming from. Any ideas on the cost of replacing the radiator then?
Yup - http://s296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/mahju/?ac...Its the labour that will get you as its a clam off jobby
Enjoy the 111s, its a great car. The extra noise is the 2nd exhaust opening up under load.
dhouthoo said:
That exhaust valve can get stuck too, resulting in loss of power and sound. At a next service you can ask your mechanic to put it open permanently.
That would be a shame because it's there for a reason. Doesn't it optimise back pressure to the system? Not to mention keeping the noise down when cruising on the motorway.It's purely there to pass drive-by type approval regs and is operated by a vaccuum created from the plenum. It's not especially loud when the valve opens but the mod is very simple:
1. Either remove the rear undertray or if you have smallish hands, twist the offside reflector mount so you can get your hand into the hole behind it.
2. You'll see an orange pipe feeding into the exhaust. Pull this off of the exhaust.
3. Put some tape around the hole now in the exhaust - it only leads to a vacuum-operated valve, which will now be permanently open. The tape is to keep the valve clean in case you want to use it again.
4. Put a self-tapping screw into the end of the pipe (this leads to the plenum so needs to be blocked off) and fold the end of the pipe back on itself before cable tying it.
5. Put the undertray or reflector back and you now have a slightly louder exhaust. No substitute for a sports exhaust, though.
1. Either remove the rear undertray or if you have smallish hands, twist the offside reflector mount so you can get your hand into the hole behind it.
2. You'll see an orange pipe feeding into the exhaust. Pull this off of the exhaust.
3. Put some tape around the hole now in the exhaust - it only leads to a vacuum-operated valve, which will now be permanently open. The tape is to keep the valve clean in case you want to use it again.
4. Put a self-tapping screw into the end of the pipe (this leads to the plenum so needs to be blocked off) and fold the end of the pipe back on itself before cable tying it.
5. Put the undertray or reflector back and you now have a slightly louder exhaust. No substitute for a sports exhaust, though.
kevin ritson said:
It's purely there to pass drive-by type approval regs and is operated by a vaccuum created from the plenum. It's not especially loud when the valve opens but the mod is very simple:
You're probably right, but why is this necessary on the VVC engine and not on the standard K series?Sound like you have what i have. Had my 111 s for about two months, noticed a drop in coolant and it turned out to be the Rad. Irish dealer charges 1400 euro for a new rad, and they'll only put in the original plastic one, so i went elsewhere.
Eliseparts one is on its way in along with new rad fans, heat resistor and braided brake lines. Remember if it's the A/C model you need the expensive Rad.
Good luck, hopefully that's the front end done for a while. Now for the back!
rory
Eliseparts one is on its way in along with new rad fans, heat resistor and braided brake lines. Remember if it's the A/C model you need the expensive Rad.
Good luck, hopefully that's the front end done for a while. Now for the back!
rory
kevin ritson said:
It was just a marketing thing as the S2 111S came out a couple of years after the 120BHP model, it's a bit faster and valve-operated exhausts were fashionable at the time.
Or possibly the quieter exhaust note might be in-keeping with the car's raison d'etre; which is a comfortable Elise for everyday use. I know that's why I bought mine. Even the intake is fully sound deadened!!RobM77 said:
kevin ritson said:
It was just a marketing thing as the S2 111S came out a couple of years after the 120BHP model, it's a bit faster and valve-operated exhausts were fashionable at the time.
Or possibly the quieter exhaust note might be in-keeping with the car's raison d'etre; which is a comfortable Elise for everyday use. I know that's why I bought mine. Even the intake is fully sound deadened!!Gassing Station | Elise/Exige/Europa/340R | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff