rear brakes binding
Discussion
Would like your opinion on a problem I have at the back. Identified the one piston causing all the trouble.
- Can I just 'repair' this one piston?
- Do I need to do both pistons of this caliper (probably I will when all the stuff is on the workbench anyway)?
- Or should the other, second caliper be done as well?
By the way, does somebody have the part numbers for an overhaul kit or seals handy or what XJ6 model it is of? Wedge is an A-frame '87 350i.
I can drive the wedge at the moment, but not in a fast road manner, and would like to have it at least fixed quickly to enjoy this summer.
Rob
- Can I just 'repair' this one piston?
- Do I need to do both pistons of this caliper (probably I will when all the stuff is on the workbench anyway)?
- Or should the other, second caliper be done as well?
By the way, does somebody have the part numbers for an overhaul kit or seals handy or what XJ6 model it is of? Wedge is an A-frame '87 350i.
I can drive the wedge at the moment, but not in a fast road manner, and would like to have it at least fixed quickly to enjoy this summer.
Rob
yeah, would "only" replace one piston, because its such an easy job to remove the caliper.
and maybe in 1 month you can do the other one because "Practice makes perfect".
and best is to order a half seal-kit, because you pay 10,-euro only, instead of 20, for a full seal kit, for one side!!!
and maybe in 1 month you can do the other one because "Practice makes perfect".
and best is to order a half seal-kit, because you pay 10,-euro only, instead of 20, for a full seal kit, for one side!!!
Hi There,
When my rear brakes were binding, i decided to do both of them and change the disks at the same time. On my 400 they were from a 4.6 jag but when you get the calipers off you can see the party numbers which can be idetified.
I would definatly change both and go for fully refurbished units on both sides as all the work is getting the the calipers....wat you might save in parts you wont save in time when you need to do the job again!! Its not a nice experiance....but then having pads cath fire isnt either!!
When my rear brakes were binding, i decided to do both of them and change the disks at the same time. On my 400 they were from a 4.6 jag but when you get the calipers off you can see the party numbers which can be idetified.
I would definatly change both and go for fully refurbished units on both sides as all the work is getting the the calipers....wat you might save in parts you wont save in time when you need to do the job again!! Its not a nice experiance....but then having pads cath fire isnt either!!
Comadis said:
yeah, would "only" replace one piston, because its such an easy job to remove the caliper.
and maybe in 1 month you can do the other one because "Practice makes perfect".
and best is to order a half seal-kit, because you pay 10,-euro only, instead of 20, for a full seal kit, for one side!!!
Maybe you could take the sarcasm and clever bugger attitude somewhere else ? and maybe in 1 month you can do the other one because "Practice makes perfect".
and best is to order a half seal-kit, because you pay 10,-euro only, instead of 20, for a full seal kit, for one side!!!
I've just changed mine, a US 280i, the calipers for mine are from a late 60s thru 87 XJ6. Also from some other models too.
I thought about a repair kit, but decided on new/rebuilt calipers. $90 each here.
Logic leaking = repair kit, seized = rusty pistons.
It's a bit of a bugger. Remove the handbrake calipers is easy, but undoing the wired nuts was an ordeal. No space for socket, so can't use a bar. My bolts were "dry" sqeaked all the way out.
I thought about a repair kit, but decided on new/rebuilt calipers. $90 each here.
Logic leaking = repair kit, seized = rusty pistons.
It's a bit of a bugger. Remove the handbrake calipers is easy, but undoing the wired nuts was an ordeal. No space for socket, so can't use a bar. My bolts were "dry" sqeaked all the way out.
I have just changed mine - Ward engineering is the place to get exchange calipers. I's a fiddly job to do in situ and would recomend dropping the whole diff to do it poperley. I would also sort out the brake calipers and disks at the same time.
It took me whole day to drop the diff on own only because every nut and bolt was rusted and had to be chopped, ground and bashed out. Once out - everything else was so easy to work on even the lockwiring which hadn't been done by a previous mechanic.
It took me whole day to drop the diff on own only because every nut and bolt was rusted and had to be chopped, ground and bashed out. Once out - everything else was so easy to work on even the lockwiring which hadn't been done by a previous mechanic.
I'd refurb the lot .. removal is a 8itch
The cost of the refurb is nothing compared to the grief you will suffer taking the lot off
scrapped knuckles etc..
Mike B did a nice article on the front brakes
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_brake_refurb....
and used these guys to do the refurb .. prices look good
a company called Classicar Automotive based in Cheshire (www.classicbrakes.co.uk telephone: 01625 860910).
The cost of the refurb is nothing compared to the grief you will suffer taking the lot off
scrapped knuckles etc..Mike B did a nice article on the front brakes
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_brake_refurb....
and used these guys to do the refurb .. prices look good
a company called Classicar Automotive based in Cheshire (www.classicbrakes.co.uk telephone: 01625 860910).
Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 28th May 11:01
I've got a spare set. as far as I know they are ok.
But have been sitting for a while.
you have 2 options
Put them on, get your's re-ferb'd put yours back on send mine back
or
You could borrow then get them re-ferb'd. swap them with yours, get your's re-ferb'd and then send yours back to me re-ferb'd
Depends if you have more time or more money.
Leigh
But have been sitting for a while.
you have 2 options
Put them on, get your's re-ferb'd put yours back on send mine back
or
You could borrow then get them re-ferb'd. swap them with yours, get your's re-ferb'd and then send yours back to me re-ferb'd
Depends if you have more time or more money.
Leigh
Thanks for the many replies.
And so quickly, nobody fixing their wedge last evening/night it seems ;-)
Currently no leaks, but only this one piston that is sometimes reluctant to go back to clear the disk.
Had no pads on fire, could be due to using good mintex pads that can stand a lot and have lasted a few trackdays and a full day drifting until now....
Disks are still ok (checked when I replaced the U-joints last year).
Like the budget theme coming up as I am Dutch.....
But money is not the issue, it is time only at the moment.
Especially to make it to the Zolder Continental Meeting in June.
Leigh thank you for your offer, but I live in Belgium.
Plan now to take this one caliper of and overhaul it (if ok after inspection).
Learn from it and see if the second will be done then as well before putting the wedge back on the road. How do you call this? Suck and see?
So it is XJ6 up to '87?
If there are part numbers on the calipers, my standard part supplier will be able to sort me out.
Worst case would be to track down a refurbished caliper in Belgium. Belgians like to drive jags so when it comes to that hope it won't be an issue.
Ahum, drive a jag as a company hack so as a last resort could perhaps be sorted by the dealer if I want to fork out the money....
Grateful for the wedge community support, good as ever.
You should deserve a PH-medal that goes with the rest of the medals we seem to have as being wedgers (looks for coat).
Rob
And so quickly, nobody fixing their wedge last evening/night it seems ;-)
Currently no leaks, but only this one piston that is sometimes reluctant to go back to clear the disk.
Had no pads on fire, could be due to using good mintex pads that can stand a lot and have lasted a few trackdays and a full day drifting until now....
Disks are still ok (checked when I replaced the U-joints last year).
Like the budget theme coming up as I am Dutch.....
But money is not the issue, it is time only at the moment.
Especially to make it to the Zolder Continental Meeting in June.
Leigh thank you for your offer, but I live in Belgium.
Plan now to take this one caliper of and overhaul it (if ok after inspection).
Learn from it and see if the second will be done then as well before putting the wedge back on the road. How do you call this? Suck and see?
So it is XJ6 up to '87?
If there are part numbers on the calipers, my standard part supplier will be able to sort me out.
Worst case would be to track down a refurbished caliper in Belgium. Belgians like to drive jags so when it comes to that hope it won't be an issue.
Ahum, drive a jag as a company hack so as a last resort could perhaps be sorted by the dealer if I want to fork out the money....
Grateful for the wedge community support, good as ever.
You should deserve a PH-medal that goes with the rest of the medals we seem to have as being wedgers (looks for coat).
Rob
Calipers can sometimes seize if the rubber flexible hose starts to break up inside.
If you using a repair kit and see any "excess" fragments of rubber change the hose too.
Unfortunately it is not a Jag part, I got mine from a TVR supplier.($50)
Had it been from the same jag model.... $20.... damn.
Changing the hose is only five minutes, once the cars up.
If you using a repair kit and see any "excess" fragments of rubber change the hose too.
Unfortunately it is not a Jag part, I got mine from a TVR supplier.($50)
Had it been from the same jag model.... $20.... damn.
Changing the hose is only five minutes, once the cars up.
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