<7k Chims - a realistic prospect?

[NiceCupOfTea]

Evening guys,

I've been following the prices of Chims for a while and it seems that there are quite a few decent sounding examples in the classifieds for between 6-7k. They don't sound like rot-boxes or basket cases, but are they a realistic proposition?

Is getting a well looked after decent condition 4.0 that's going to be a reliable daily driver going to be do-able on this sort of budget?

Plus, what's the consensus on values? Are they reaching the bottom of their depreciation curve, or is the thirsty V8 going to ensure they end up in freefall in the next few years? Might be the sort of thing I run for a couple of years and then sell on so don't want to lose too much!

[daz the plumber]

for get it,tvr chimaera will cost you... its more of a enthusiast car

[2 sMoKiN bArReLs]

£7k Chim is going to be a 13 year old car (ish), so will potentially have the problems any car that age might have.

You will need to budget, say, £1,500 a year for maintenance (assuming the average 4,000 miles per annum)

You will also expect some likely chassis work looming.

I believe prices will fall rather than appreciate. I know pound for pound £7k will buy you a lot of performance, but £7k will still buy you a lot newer gti for example.


Having said all that, I plan to keep mine until all the super unleaded is gone!

[Don]

Just remember that a £7K Chimaera was once a £37K Chimaera. The running costs can be high. We do a low mileage - but do try to use the car regularly. £2K a year on servicing and repairs. A few hundred quid on insurance. If the chassis goes it's either a write-off (sensibly) or a hobby restoration.

A Chimaera should probably now be viewed as a classic car - with all the attendant troubles and costs.

They are a top laugh, though. The engine and exhaust note make everyone smile and it accelerates like a frightened rabbit. However - today's warm hatches are probably faster in the real world as it's rear drive with bugger all weight over those rears. I can't count the times, when I first got it, that I span the rears at lights, roundabouts and junctions once the road had a trace of damp...

Fun. But I guarantee you will lose your shirt. The question is whether or not you mind.

[NiceCupOfTea]

Well I am used to running enthusiast / classic / expensive to maintain cars and am not expecting a brand new car

At the moment I am thinking not "can I afford to" but more "can I afford not to" - giving the way petrol prices / environmental movement is going they may not be allowed in a few years...

And I've never been about out and out speed - given the choice between a proper V8 RWD sportscar and a 7k hot hatch that may be superior in every way I'm afraid I would be going with the sports car...

I rather hoped that the mechanicals would be OK and I'd just be looking at chassis/outrigger rust and electrical malaises. 1500-2000 a year, does that include fuel or is that just maintenance/repairs?

[Jasandjules]

Any car of that age can go wrong, regardless of marque etc..

If you are happy to accept that many bits may fall off and need replacing, and will be more expensive than a Ford, go for it.

[Ubernoober]

There again, some of us are lucky enough to average over 10k miles a year using it as an every-other-day driver, with no breakdowns or breakages all for the cost of regular Indie servicing. But be prepared to replace parts as they wear out and at 13 years old, there may well be a few of them on the 'edge' - all Chims tend to head towards being a bit like 'Trigger's broom'

But all my other cars I've had/got, have been less reliable than my Chim - including my Merc

The only more reliable vehicle I have had was a Berlingo van - in 4 years that literally did have nothing break/fail/fall of/rust/disappear.

[2 sMoKiN bArReLs]

NiceCupOfTea said:

1500-2000 a year, does that include fuel or is that just maintenance/repairs?

Now you are having a laugh!!!!

[NiceCupOfTea]

;) Well the Saab has cost me nearly 2k in the last 7 months and 4 of that it was sitting either on my drive or at an indy in Tunbridge Wells with a shagged clutch

Seriously though, is it going to be any worse than any other 15 year old enthusiast car?

[FlipFlopGriff]

You get what you pay for generally and I would try and puch yourself to £10k to get a newer model as this is likely to be cost effective over say 2-3 years.
FFG

[2 sMoKiN bArReLs]

NiceCupOfTea said:

;)

Seriously though, is it going to be any worse than any other 15 year old enthusiast car?

Have you driven one? If not, don't.

because you'll buy one anyway, and hang the cost!

[NiceCupOfTea]

Not driven one yet - because I think I will have to have one if I do

Pushing to 10k isn't really an option... to be honest 7k is pushing it and is only going to be doable if I sell it a couple of years on to recoup some of the money

I know that sounds like I can't afford to run one but I somehow manage to find money to keep the things running

[900T-R]

FlipFlopGriff said:

You get what you pay for generally and I would try and puch yourself to £10k to get a newer model as this is likely to be cost effective over say 2-3 years.
FFG

After an indepth study of the market I came to the conclusion that £10K generally buys one a later car with less miles (not that desirable - these things need to be driven), but not one that has had more attention paid to the chassis or mechanicals...

[FlipFlopGriff]

900T-R said:

FlipFlopGriff said:

You get what you pay for generally and I would try and puch yourself to £10k to get a newer model as this is likely to be cost effective over say 2-3 years.
FFG

After an indepth study of the market I came to the conclusion that £10K generally buys one a later car with less miles (not that desirable - these things need to be driven), but not one that has had more attention paid to the chassis or mechanicals...

How many did you look at?
Later car, later chassis. Not saying thats every one but £7k is generally a more tired motor in need of work and £10k less so, hence you'll probably end up spending more on an older motor.
I agree on the mileage, it shouldn't impact, in factI agree more miles are better as consumables tend to have been replaced.
FFG

[900T-R]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Later car, later chassis.

With 1998-99 Cerbies needing complete chassis refurbs, I'm not sure whether a 'later' chassis is a bonus. Personally I'd be wary of the later years with the white powder coating.

FlipFlopGriff said:

Not saying thats every one but £7k is generally a more tired motor in need of work and £10k less so, hence you'll probably end up spending more on an older motor.

Not my experience - the older cars tend to have had some or most of the mechanical stuff doen that is bound to fail sooner or later - mine had new front wishbones, recent chassis waxoyl treatment, new starter motor, rebuilt gearbox, diff bushes replaced and and and - all the newer/ lower mileage cars seem to have had have had are front end resprays.

Thing is I rather have £3-4K worth of leeway for mechanical work that may be necessary at some point than stretch myself to spend that amount on top of my initial budget and buy something newer that has only benefitted from cosmetic attention (I suspect most of these 'minters' belong to the 'polish and only drive on sunny Sunday afternoons' brigade) when you know that it will need all of the above stuff at some point, too.

In fairness, my £6K Chim has become a £10K+ car, but then I now have something of which all major mechanicals are known entities - engine rebuild etc.

Edited by 900T-R on Thursday 29th May 13:41

[Zippee]

FlipFlopGriff said:

You get what you pay for generally and I would try and puch yourself to £10k to get a newer model as this is likely to be cost effective over say 2-3 years.
FFG

I sort of agree - there are poor later cars out there just as there are poor early cars.
Trouble is most are priced according to age rather than condition ie/ a poor 99 model would likely be priced a lot more than a prestige 95.
Buy on condition and you should be fine - just remember that servicing is not the expensive part, its the preventative maintenance that costs. My car is a 97 with 60k and I guess I average around £1500-2k a year over my 3 1/2 years ownership. This includes new shocks, manifolds, diff bushes, clutch etc. All of which are wearable items and therefore dependant uopn age, mileage etc. A higher mileage car therefore may prove to make more financial sense as these items are more likely to have been done than on a lower mileage one.
Chassis condition also is a factor - all because a car is old though does not mean the outriggers will soon need replacing. My 97 has a fantastic chassis (& I drive all year/weathers) yet I've seen an 01 450 that was almost rotten. Proper care and maintenance here are key!

My only worry with these cars coming down in price is that they will be purchased by people who can't afford to maintain them properly and create a host of problems later on!

[That Daddy]

My only worry with these cars coming down in price is that they will be purchased by people who can't afford to maintain them properly and create a host of problems later on!
[/quote]I think you will find thats already happening,as been for some time

[Bodmin]

I don't think your idea is totally unrealistic.

The RV8 is generally is very reliable unit & relatively cheap to maintain because unlike most modern engines there is no cambelt that needs regular renewal or tappets that require adjusting like the SP6 or AJP. The camshaft & clutch seem to need changing around the 50-60k mark depending upon how they have been driven.
Being a mass produced engine all the parts are still readily available & as 900T has already indicated for the age of car in your price bracket they may have already been done.

The chassis however needs to be inspected carefully but if it has been regularly cleaned & treated you should not find any nasty suprises.

The drivetrain is fairly sturdy but there where some issues with the early GKN type diffs. Suspension/diff bushes will wear/perish just the same as any other make of car.

The electrical gremlins are mostly caused by lack of use rather than any major inherent fault. Most of the frustration of TVR wiring is caused by the inaccuracy of the wiring diagrams/colours. On my own Griff I had a corroded connection in the n/s sill that supplied the fuel pump which shorted & blew the immobiliser unit......which was nice .... the wiring changed colour three times from the fuel pump to the fuse box

The other bonus is that most of the mechanical parts on the car where raided from other manufactures parts bins which are almost all still available. The only problem seems to be getting hold of some of the trim parts.

I guess it comes down to whether you are trying to aim for a show condition car or don't mind one that is a 'bit rough around the egdes'

Bodders

[banjolucknicker]

I've just bought a '97 4.0 from a very reputable indie near Midhurst for ~£11K. I initially looked at a few cheaper, older models but the prospect of potential problems and the safety net you get with buying from a (good) dealer swayed it for me.

End of the day it's your money, your choice. Personally I would prefer to pay the extra and get the peace of mind.

Best advice is whatever you go for just enjoy it, drive it and if it ends up costing a small fortune, chalk it up to experience and move on - lifes too short

[v8_steve]

Try to find one that is used as a daily drive since it is likely to be better maintained and more reliable.