leaking again then plastic wheel nut
leaking again then plastic wheel nut
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Discussion

nickwaiheke

Original Poster:

352 posts

220 months

Thursday 29th May 2008
quotequote all
Having another go at fixing the leaks in the CV8 (yes its spent 14 days at Vauxhall and still no luck) decided to take rear wheel off for better access to sill all nuts come off easily bar last one which starts rounding
brace doesn't even fit well tried better fitting sockets etc still no movement
any tips???

why are they so great to drive but so rubbish to live with

the muppet

669 posts

214 months

Thursday 29th May 2008
quotequote all
Six-pointed socket to start, then if that doesn't work try hammering on the next imperial size down. If possible use an impact wrench instead of a breaker bar. Good luck!

wolfracer

2,074 posts

229 months

Thursday 29th May 2008
quotequote all
WD40 sprayed liberally onto everything (avoiding brakes!!!) and leave overnight.
IF still no joy, last resort is to go to local repair garage and get them to weld another bolt or bar onto the nut and voila!
Bit extreme but would be pretty quick if you know the right people.

ukvoyager.info

2,782 posts

245 months

Friday 30th May 2008
quotequote all
After the wd40 if you can also try hammering the nut (protecting the nut with some wood). The shock can sometimes work things loose.

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

233 months

Friday 30th May 2008
quotequote all
silly question you did undo them in the correct order didnt you? ie not just gone round in a circle leaving the last one fully torqued and pinched by the wheel?

another nasty trick is to jack the car down (slowly) thhe pressure popps it lose - do this at your own risk (worked better on steelies!)

LuS1fer

43,230 posts

268 months

Friday 30th May 2008
quotequote all
I know nothing about Monaros but my Z28 did have plastic wheel nut covers that looked like a nut over the nut itself. It unscrewed from the nut, possibly anti-clockwise, I forget but you removed that first.

wolfracer

2,074 posts

229 months

Saturday 31st May 2008
quotequote all
[quote=stigmundfreud]silly question you did undo them in the correct order didnt you? ie not just gone round in a circle leaving the last one fully torqued and pinched by the wheel?quote]
I don't see how this makes a difference? Surely whichever way you undo the bolts you will be left with one fully tightened - regardless of sequence???
Tightening, yes i can see the logic of applying same pressures on opposite sides of the wheel to ensure the wheel is fitted squarely, but taking the wheel off surely (as all nuts are torqued to the same on fitment) there will be one left at full torque?

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

233 months

Saturday 31st May 2008
quotequote all
well wht you do is wheel on ground knock each one off tight then raise and do in the same pattern as you'll tighten. Make a difference? Yes, you dont undo each nut fully you undo each one a bit at a time which will ensure that even if the wheel rests on the nut it has been freed of purchase.

wolfracer

2,074 posts

229 months

Sunday 1st June 2008
quotequote all
stigmundfreud said:
well wht you do is wheel on ground knock each one off tight then raise and do in the same pattern as you'll tighten. Make a difference? Yes, you dont undo each nut fully you undo each one a bit at a time which will ensure that even if the wheel rests on the nut it has been freed of purchase.

aha understand now, you mean to break free each nut with the wheel "touching" the floor then raise and unscrew in sequence?
That is the way i would/do do it, but you can still get a sticky nut.... Our zafira had one nut which refused to move... 2 replacement locking wheel nuts later i took it Vx for them to have a go.... don't know what they did but they freed it...
First and ONLY time been imoressed with Vx mechanics.......

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

233 months

Sunday 1st June 2008
quotequote all
wonder if anyones suggested using a long extender bar to make the torque input required a lot less to break it off? (not re-read thread) - nowt worse than when shizzle sticks on but unless its been seriously cross threaded I cant see a nut on something so new being welded on

ads_green

838 posts

255 months

Sunday 1st June 2008
quotequote all
you can put the other bolts back in secure but not tight. Drive the car forward about 10" and back again. The tiny amount of movement can free up the bolt.

stevieturbo

17,959 posts

270 months

Sunday 1st June 2008
quotequote all
Irwin makes some incredible tools for removing rounded bolts and nuts.

This type of thing, although make sure you get the correct size. They are pretty amazing.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/96028/Automotive/Soc...

nickwaiheke

Original Poster:

352 posts

220 months

Sunday 1st June 2008
quotequote all
and the winner suggested hammering the 17" socket on hard and then attacking it with air pressue turning thing after a lot of swearing

the muppet

669 posts

214 months

Sunday 1st June 2008
quotequote all
Hammers are your friends...lol...and air tools are pretty good too!

Edited by the muppet on Sunday 1st June 19:36