Anti Roll Bar Link Rod Kit?
Discussion
Due to some knocking from the rear it would appear that i need a new set of Anti Roll Bar Link Rod Kits for the rear of my car. can any one help in terms of a supplier that can post them out and if there are any suggestions of additional work that is good to do during this opperation?
Many thanks in advance.
Many thanks in advance.
What's everyone's thoughts on having the rear anti roll bar connected or not on the Cerb and how if affects handling.
My car still has a habit of skipping a bit at low speed very tight corners and roundabouts, almost if the rear roll bar is loading and unloading, or is it a trait of the chassis
.
My car still has a habit of skipping a bit at low speed very tight corners and roundabouts, almost if the rear roll bar is loading and unloading, or is it a trait of the chassis
.HarryW said:
What's everyone's thoughts on having the rear anti roll bar connected or not on the Cerb and how if affects handling.
My car still has a habit of skipping a bit at low speed very tight corners and roundabouts, almost if the rear roll bar is loading and unloading, or is it a trait of the chassis.
One of my roll bar links went the other day and I ran for a week with them disconnected. The car feels softer and more controllable to me anyway. If I had the option of taking it off altogether I think I would.My car still has a habit of skipping a bit at low speed very tight corners and roundabouts, almost if the rear roll bar is loading and unloading, or is it a trait of the chassis
.Edited by Dave 500 on Friday 30th May 14:34
Joolz took mine off, and I must say I have been pleasantly surprised.
Holds the tarmac very well now.
Been on a track day, or two, and a couple of sprints.
If yours is an 'early' i.e. below diff', ARB then it's not a long job to take it off to see how you get on.
Tim
Holds the tarmac very well now.
Been on a track day, or two, and a couple of sprints.
If yours is an 'early' i.e. below diff', ARB then it's not a long job to take it off to see how you get on.
Tim
Edited by TT Tim on Friday 30th May 14:28
Cheers guys,
It would appear that the earlier cerbs have the seperate Spherical joints at the end and the later ones have the all in one.
I take it then that you do not need them for an MOT. It is interesting though to see the opinions without one. I thought the idea was to make the handling better by minimising the roll. if they are disconected will there be any additional stress transferred to some other component?
the thought of getting rid does appeal so we dont have any knocking in future.
I forgot to mention that mine is a later one, the garage has sent it for an MOT now with the view to change them after the test, so i dont know how big a job it is to carry out.
It would appear that the earlier cerbs have the seperate Spherical joints at the end and the later ones have the all in one.
I take it then that you do not need them for an MOT. It is interesting though to see the opinions without one. I thought the idea was to make the handling better by minimising the roll. if they are disconected will there be any additional stress transferred to some other component?
the thought of getting rid does appeal so we dont have any knocking in future.
I forgot to mention that mine is a later one, the garage has sent it for an MOT now with the view to change them after the test, so i dont know how big a job it is to carry out.
Edited by McNasty on Friday 30th May 15:27
you can make your own drop links cheaply with some 10mm threaded rod and some 10mm rose joints.
I only advocate removing the rear bar as part of a handling development programme where you've got a suspension system which will work well with no rear bar .. however having said that why not remove it and see how you get on?
Technically for the MOT if the car was originally fitted with an anti roll bar it should have one for the test, but you might explain to your MOT station that the suspension kit you've fitted is designed to work without an ARB and see if they're quite happy with that.
I only advocate removing the rear bar as part of a handling development programme where you've got a suspension system which will work well with no rear bar .. however having said that why not remove it and see how you get on?
Technically for the MOT if the car was originally fitted with an anti roll bar it should have one for the test, but you might explain to your MOT station that the suspension kit you've fitted is designed to work without an ARB and see if they're quite happy with that.
Digging this one up cos I'm inter3sted in removng the rear arb. The cerb I saw in Portsmouth had the rear arb removed, was running ohlins which had virtually no movement in them (got away with very low running height and no arch rub). Talking to the previous owner Kingsley Marten (who does the odd spot of race driving lol!) he said removing it "transformed the handling of the car".
I must say driving it it felt well planted.
I must say driving it it felt well planted.
It depends what you want .. most people want lots of traction, a small benefit in rear ride comfort and so the benefits are in removing the arb.
If you wanted a drift car you might leave it connected.
Our T350 racer does still use a rear arb but only because our car has a low speed understeer issue because of all the weight in front of the front wheels, so I've kept the rear arb to try and allow an extra element of destabilisation at the rear. At high speeds our rear end is kept in check by significant aero effects, something you don't have the luxury of in a road car usually. Once the ajp8 engine is in I fully expect to be able to take the rear arb off our car.
If you wanted a drift car you might leave it connected.
Our T350 racer does still use a rear arb but only because our car has a low speed understeer issue because of all the weight in front of the front wheels, so I've kept the rear arb to try and allow an extra element of destabilisation at the rear. At high speeds our rear end is kept in check by significant aero effects, something you don't have the luxury of in a road car usually. Once the ajp8 engine is in I fully expect to be able to take the rear arb off our car.
On the caterhams, it's common practice to disconnect it for a wet setup for racing and to remove the front one as well. But that's more to soften the suspension quickly.
But in a normal car, why wouldn't you have it? The point of it is to transmit force from one side of the suspension to the other during cornering to try to reduce roll and keep the car more level in the corners. This is to keep more rubber on the road and improve grip.
But in a normal car, why wouldn't you have it? The point of it is to transmit force from one side of the suspension to the other during cornering to try to reduce roll and keep the car more level in the corners. This is to keep more rubber on the road and improve grip.
On the subject of MOT's, jules I once remember you said you didn't remove the ARB on later cars just hooked it out of the way.
I did this on my as a trial after getting my nitrons, but the first MOT guy got a bit upset and I had to reconnect it IN the mot station to get the car to pass.
Do you completely remove them now. It looks like a PITA to actually remove the rod in teh later cars without cutting it in half.
I did this on my as a trial after getting my nitrons, but the first MOT guy got a bit upset and I had to reconnect it IN the mot station to get the car to pass.
Do you completely remove them now. It looks like a PITA to actually remove the rod in teh later cars without cutting it in half.
I remove the early under-car arb if required. I keep the original bars still in place but tied out of the way on later cars. as far as I can recall the mot regulations say the arb must be fitted on a car to which it was OE .. it doesn't say anything about it being connected to the suspension and working, just fitted ... an easy 10min job on an early car to refit, and it technically is fitted still to the later cars, just not working ..
So if i'm reading right - removing arb should improve traction? Not interested in tracking the car btw.
The cerb really feels so much more lively at the back than my cobra but not sure whether it's more related to no arb on the cob or just testament to how good jag rear end set up actually is.
The cerb really feels so much more lively at the back than my cobra but not sure whether it's more related to no arb on the cob or just testament to how good jag rear end set up actually is.
smash said:
So if i'm reading right - removing arb should improve traction? Not interested in tracking the car btw.
The cerb really feels so much more lively at the back than my cobra but not sure whether it's more related to no arb on the cob or just testament to how good jag rear end set up actually is.
If its anything like my Cobra, I think the explanation is the sheer amount of rubber passed to the road by the Cobra at the back. Compared to that the Cerb tyres look like they come from a bicycle. The cerb really feels so much more lively at the back than my cobra but not sure whether it's more related to no arb on the cob or just testament to how good jag rear end set up actually is.
Funnily enough they're the same width - 255/60's on my cobs rear, 255/rubber bands on the cerb, lol! Oviously with the profile of the cobs wheels @ 15" they became part of the suspension effectively whereas the cerb's bands aren't going to give anything, one of the drawbacks of nice big wheels. Actually one reason why you shouldn't go putting oversize rims on certain cars - heard of Range Rover sport running 22's that after major kerb cracked suspension mounts - no compliance - so don't go mad
I might be able to help. I had a knock at the rear that turned out to be the ARB bushes sticking. Basically, as the ARB rotated the sticking bush started to twist with it. Then, when the torque on the bush reached a certial level the bush snapped back to its proper position causing a knock. Took bushes off (also found snapped bracket), copper slip, back together and it was fixed.
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