Changing brakes and discs all round tomorrow - any tips?
Discussion
Righto.
Got the discs and pads and going to start on the fronts tomorrow. Got the Bible and read it at least 3 times. Any tips from those in the know who have changed their brakes? Virtual
(or real ones if we meet) for any useful info.
Ooh and if this goes well an oil change is next!
Trace
Got the discs and pads and going to start on the fronts tomorrow. Got the Bible and read it at least 3 times. Any tips from those in the know who have changed their brakes? Virtual
(or real ones if we meet) for any useful info.Ooh and if this goes well an oil change is next!
Trace
V8 Animal said:
Replace all the brake fluid and you may as well fit braided pipes.
In theory a good idea, thanks for the suggestion and I will do it, but not this time. TBH I am still learning about doing this kind of stuff on the cars and I am practicing on the Mini (with supervision from the lovely chap at the Mini garage) then moving up to the Chim. Changed the brakes and oil on the Mini so doing the brakes and oil on the Chim after lots of research to ensure I am doing the correct thing. It isn't hard once you understand the techniques, but I am aware of the consequences if I get it wrong so I am taking baby steps on this Trace
Trace
When you come to do the rears I seem to recall that one of the hexagonal socket bolts securing the caliper is obstructed and if it hasn't been removed since leaving the factory is likely to be very tight.
You need to cut down the short leg of the Allen key and find a good piece of close-fitting tubing to go over the long leg to act as an extension piece.
Cheers
Dave
When you come to do the rears I seem to recall that one of the hexagonal socket bolts securing the caliper is obstructed and if it hasn't been removed since leaving the factory is likely to be very tight.
You need to cut down the short leg of the Allen key and find a good piece of close-fitting tubing to go over the long leg to act as an extension piece.
Cheers
Dave
Hi.
It's good practice to de-grease the discs defore you fit them, as quite often they have a light film of oil to protect during storage/shipping.
Also clean/de rust the mounting face on the hub to ensure the disc sits true.
Then after it's all back together remember to pump the brake peddle a few times before you move off to push the pads out to there correct position.
I have scared myself a few times when I have forgot to do this and as i've reversed off the lift and pressed the brakes, the peddle has shot to the floor and caused my heart to miss a beat! It's surprising how fast you can pump the peddle when you have to!
After you have gone for your test drive check the wheel nut's are still tight, as it's quite common for the discs to seat that last little bit and allow the wheels to come loose.
Most of all take your time, have plenty of tea and enjoy what it is that your doing. For me working on them is as much fun as driving them and very rewarding. ( All this from a bloke who has ALL the front suspension and the steering rack of the car so that he can paint the chassis as we speak).
It's good practice to de-grease the discs defore you fit them, as quite often they have a light film of oil to protect during storage/shipping.
Also clean/de rust the mounting face on the hub to ensure the disc sits true.
Then after it's all back together remember to pump the brake peddle a few times before you move off to push the pads out to there correct position.
I have scared myself a few times when I have forgot to do this and as i've reversed off the lift and pressed the brakes, the peddle has shot to the floor and caused my heart to miss a beat! It's surprising how fast you can pump the peddle when you have to!
After you have gone for your test drive check the wheel nut's are still tight, as it's quite common for the discs to seat that last little bit and allow the wheels to come loose.
Most of all take your time, have plenty of tea and enjoy what it is that your doing. For me working on them is as much fun as driving them and very rewarding. ( All this from a bloke who has ALL the front suspension and the steering rack of the car so that he can paint the chassis as we speak).
New discs come with a grease coating; this must be cleaned off before fitting.
For the rears you will need a wind back tool, they don't cost much and the job will be a pain without one.
Get some high temp grease (copper slip) to lubricate the contact points between the pads and the callipers, this will prevent brake squeal.
For the rears you will need a wind back tool, they don't cost much and the job will be a pain without one.
Get some high temp grease (copper slip) to lubricate the contact points between the pads and the callipers, this will prevent brake squeal.
With the rears don't muck about with em. Undo the Allen key bolt you can get too. Hacksaw off the obscured one. When hacksawing buy anew blade and try and keep the blade as straight as possible and try to saw down through the washer between the head of the Allen key bolt and the hub carrier.
Go to Halfrauds and buy some new Hex head M10's (they sell them in packets of 2) and replace all 4 Allen key heads with the Hex head bolts that you've just bought.
No need to adapt a tool to do it.
They will be really really tight if mine were anything to go by and in fact I snapped a decent Allen Key on the top one and then a decent 3/8 drive Allen key socket.
Had to change up to 1/2 inch drive Allen key socket which sorted it and hacksawed off the bottom ones. Never will I have the same issue again though
Go to Halfrauds and buy some new Hex head M10's (they sell them in packets of 2) and replace all 4 Allen key heads with the Hex head bolts that you've just bought.
No need to adapt a tool to do it.
They will be really really tight if mine were anything to go by and in fact I snapped a decent Allen Key on the top one and then a decent 3/8 drive Allen key socket.
Had to change up to 1/2 inch drive Allen key socket which sorted it and hacksawed off the bottom ones. Never will I have the same issue again though
Edited by Johno on Tuesday 3rd June 09:54
I've used both a hex bolt socket and an allen key to get my bolts off. They both have their advantages.
You can whack an allen key with a hammer to break the bolts grip, but the hex socket is much quicker and easier to use because its attached to a socket wrench.
I recently lost a front brake bolt after having the front calipers off. So I'd strongly recommend putting a blob of loctite on the bolts when you put them back in.
My top tip: When you've got the caliper undone, and before you pull it off the rotor (disc), twist it by gripping the back edge of the caliper and pulling it towards you. If you are on the drivers side it would be as if you are trying to turn the wheel to the left.
This will shove the piston back in so you don't have a big fight with it when you put the new pads in.
Thats on the front. I don't know about the rears as I've not had to change them yet.
You can whack an allen key with a hammer to break the bolts grip, but the hex socket is much quicker and easier to use because its attached to a socket wrench.
I recently lost a front brake bolt after having the front calipers off. So I'd strongly recommend putting a blob of loctite on the bolts when you put them back in.
My top tip: When you've got the caliper undone, and before you pull it off the rotor (disc), twist it by gripping the back edge of the caliper and pulling it towards you. If you are on the drivers side it would be as if you are trying to turn the wheel to the left.
This will shove the piston back in so you don't have a big fight with it when you put the new pads in.
Thats on the front. I don't know about the rears as I've not had to change them yet.
Edited by Barreti on Tuesday 3rd June 10:23
Johno said:
You don't need a special tool. Use a pair of swan necks to do it but be careful not to damage the seal.
True however I thought that until I had a piston pop out on me. OK I was unlucky but winding the piston without something to prevent it moving the wrong way is a method I don't risk anymore, more trouble than it was worth. A cheap wind back tool has been a useful addition to my toolkit.A smear of copper slip on the rear disc retaining bolts will help you next time you need to get the discs off.
Right, rear brakes. We got the wrong size, were given the 273 for the later cars. Now we have done a rough measurement and the discs appear to be approx 240 but the TVR Shop web site has got 235s and 253s. 
Didn't want to have to take the discs off to match them but its looking like thats what we are going to have to do unless anyone can suggest anything.
Cheers
Trace
Didn't want to have to take the discs off to match them but its looking like thats what we are going to have to do unless anyone can suggest anything.
Cheers
Trace
Ace-T said:
Didn't want to have to take the discs off to match them but its looking like thats what we are going to have to do unless anyone can suggest anything.
I've always done the match thing, take one off, pop up to Sutton Auto Factors, and do the 'I'd like some of these please' line, one of the lads runs round the back for a bit, check the bits are a match in the shop and away you go, and get it all back together before tonight so you can bed them in on the way to the Griffin.[quote=Ace-T]Right, rear brakes. We got the wrong size, were given the 273 for the later cars. Now we have done a rough measurement and the discs appear to be approx 240 but the TVR Shop web site has got 235s and 253s.
Didn't want to have to take the discs off to match them but its looking like thats what we are going to have to do unless anyone can suggest anything.
Can't you measure the circumference / perimeter of the disk and convert that into a diameter? My 94 Chim has 240 fronts and I think the rears are a larger diameter so 240 rears doesnt sound right...? Of the 2 sizes you mention 253 sounds more likely...Anyone else?
Didn't want to have to take the discs off to match them but its looking like thats what we are going to have to do unless anyone can suggest anything.
Can't you measure the circumference / perimeter of the disk and convert that into a diameter? My 94 Chim has 240 fronts and I think the rears are a larger diameter so 240 rears doesnt sound right...? Of the 2 sizes you mention 253 sounds more likely...Anyone else?
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