Griff 500 stainless steel water pipes and silicon hoses.
Discussion
Hey guys, am purchasing the ACT stainless steel water pipes and silicon hoses (in preperation for the summer!!!) and looking to change them at the weekend, am pretty good with the spanners (built a westfield) but just wondered how difficult they are to change and if anyone has any hints and tips. Also whats the best way to avoid getting air in the system when I refill it and im guessing you dont fill the expansion tank??. Also am going to change the belt tensioner on the front pulleys and wondered if anyone has any tips for that!!
Cheers guys!!
Mike
Cheers guys!!
Mike
Pipes are dead easy to fit. One of the most straightforward jobs I have done. IIRC there is a difference in size (diameter) in the pipe from the expansion tank to the swirl pot on some cars - check ACT have given you the right one before you pull everyhting apart. Pull the old pipe off the top of the swirl pot and check it fits. ACT will swap it quickly if it is wrong. I had no problem with air.
There is a sequence for bleeding the cooling system that gets all the air out. It isn't hard but I wouldn't have figured out on my own (it's all in Steve Heath's book)
1. Turn the heater controls on to full to avoid any airlock
2. Take off the swirl tank screw cap
3. Half fill the expansion tank then put the blue cap back on.
4. Fill the swirl pot to the top of the threads
5. Undo the radiator bleed screw
6. When the level in the swirl pot drops and all the air is out, tighten the bleed screw back up
7. Top up the swirl pot and replace the cap.
That is supposed to do the trick although I found that I had to run the engine for a few minutes just to free up a few little airlocks and then top up the swirl pot again.
If you haven't got Steve's book and you are handy with the spanners I would highly recommend it. http://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/
gooner
1. Turn the heater controls on to full to avoid any airlock
2. Take off the swirl tank screw cap
3. Half fill the expansion tank then put the blue cap back on.
4. Fill the swirl pot to the top of the threads
5. Undo the radiator bleed screw
6. When the level in the swirl pot drops and all the air is out, tighten the bleed screw back up
7. Top up the swirl pot and replace the cap.
That is supposed to do the trick although I found that I had to run the engine for a few minutes just to free up a few little airlocks and then top up the swirl pot again.
If you haven't got Steve's book and you are handy with the spanners I would highly recommend it. http://www.tvrbooks.co.uk/
gooner
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