Gear Box remote linkage bushes
Discussion
Hi All,
After an eventful weekend of getting the drivers exhaust manufold off, repaired and back on the car, i also spent a little time pondering how to sort the gear box out.
In short, its really heavy when cold and when under hoofing load between 3rd to 4th, sometimes 4th to 5th, i can feel the gears mesh slightly as the engage. Its not the end of the world but its just not right.
I did a bit of searching through the forums and found this from D1MAD - "Another easy check worth doing is gripping your gear stick and checking for vertical free play. Any noticeable movement and the remote linkage bushes probably need renewing. They are only about a tenner a set, but a bit fiddly to fit. I thought my gearbox was on the way out as syncro was starting to catch on several gears but changed these bushes and it was like having a new gearbox"
Sounded feasible (although unlikely!), so tried changing gear whilst gently lifting the gear level and it shifts perfectly! SO, the next thing was to try and find out what parts these are!
Called Rimmer Bros and managed to order some bushes as a totaly kit quantity of 7. This was the only parts they had to offer - sounds right to anyone?
Has anyone done this job before? Hard?
Cheers!!
D1MAD
After an eventful weekend of getting the drivers exhaust manufold off, repaired and back on the car, i also spent a little time pondering how to sort the gear box out.
In short, its really heavy when cold and when under hoofing load between 3rd to 4th, sometimes 4th to 5th, i can feel the gears mesh slightly as the engage. Its not the end of the world but its just not right.
I did a bit of searching through the forums and found this from D1MAD - "Another easy check worth doing is gripping your gear stick and checking for vertical free play. Any noticeable movement and the remote linkage bushes probably need renewing. They are only about a tenner a set, but a bit fiddly to fit. I thought my gearbox was on the way out as syncro was starting to catch on several gears but changed these bushes and it was like having a new gearbox"
Sounded feasible (although unlikely!), so tried changing gear whilst gently lifting the gear level and it shifts perfectly! SO, the next thing was to try and find out what parts these are!
Called Rimmer Bros and managed to order some bushes as a totaly kit quantity of 7. This was the only parts they had to offer - sounds right to anyone?
Has anyone done this job before? Hard?
Cheers!!
D1MAD
Matt
Should be 8 bushes in total, as 4 bolts with 2 bushes on each bolt
I'll see if I can dig the receipt out tonight as have the part no on them
All the bushes are the same so it's 1 bush no X 8
Made a hell of a difference to my gearchange, and best improvement I've done this year so far. Alas sent Leigh my spare set not that long ago , so no more spares
Should be 8 bushes in total, as 4 bolts with 2 bushes on each bolt
I'll see if I can dig the receipt out tonight as have the part no on them
All the bushes are the same so it's 1 bush no X 8
Made a hell of a difference to my gearchange, and best improvement I've done this year so far. Alas sent Leigh my spare set not that long ago , so no more spares
Edited by gsx600 on Monday 9th June 17:14
Hello Matt,
The bushes will defo improve things if it is simply a matter of remote/box alignment, but if its an internal box problem here is a radical solution to an unfriendly 5-speed LT77 gearbox.
• Baulking at will and very notchy. Very, very hard work, this was my last resort in 1996.
• During a routine gearbox oil level check noticed how dirty the lubricant had become so it was obvious it had to be flushed and changed. It had the recommended ATF which Rover had been forced to specify, because the gearbox was unreliable when filled with conventional lubricant.
• An Ex-Mobil employee advised Mobil 1 or Castrol RS at 0W40 or 5W40 viscosity were considered by the trade to be a better replacement than ATF in the Rover 5 speed box and gave a much improved performance.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the box and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining, be amazed at the filthy color and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues (Visualize the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess).
• Refill with fully synthetic 5W40 "Castrol RS" or 0W40 "Mobil 1" (there is no discernable difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment (Comes in a tube-like applicator available from Halfords, etc).
• The transformation is miraculous from Day 1.
Mine is on its third treatment and oil change and has run immaculately for 12 years without any of the original symptoms. A total pleasure to use.
More detail here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
The bushes will defo improve things if it is simply a matter of remote/box alignment, but if its an internal box problem here is a radical solution to an unfriendly 5-speed LT77 gearbox.
• Baulking at will and very notchy. Very, very hard work, this was my last resort in 1996.
• During a routine gearbox oil level check noticed how dirty the lubricant had become so it was obvious it had to be flushed and changed. It had the recommended ATF which Rover had been forced to specify, because the gearbox was unreliable when filled with conventional lubricant.
• An Ex-Mobil employee advised Mobil 1 or Castrol RS at 0W40 or 5W40 viscosity were considered by the trade to be a better replacement than ATF in the Rover 5 speed box and gave a much improved performance.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the box and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining, be amazed at the filthy color and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues (Visualize the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess).
• Refill with fully synthetic 5W40 "Castrol RS" or 0W40 "Mobil 1" (there is no discernable difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment (Comes in a tube-like applicator available from Halfords, etc).
• The transformation is miraculous from Day 1.
Mine is on its third treatment and oil change and has run immaculately for 12 years without any of the original symptoms. A total pleasure to use.
More detail here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
islander said:
Easy standing up in a pit underneath the car, a real bugger laying on your back! The front bolts are a bit of a bugger to get at, but I doubt are the ones that will cause the problem! I have some spare ones, think it may be 4 as my front ones were okay!
Martin, your teasing me!!Could i come to yours and borrow the pit next week sometime? once i get my bloomin exhaust sorted and on the car thats the next on the list!
So i assume its only from the bottom up, not top down?
honestjohntoo said:
Hello Matt,
The bushes will defo improve things if it is simply a matter of remote/box alignment, but if its an internal box problem here is a radical solution to an unfriendly 5-speed LT77 gearbox.
• Baulking at will and very notchy. Very, very hard work, this was my last resort in 1996.
• During a routine gearbox oil level check noticed how dirty the lubricant had become so it was obvious it had to be flushed and changed. It had the recommended ATF which Rover had been forced to specify, because the gearbox was unreliable when filled with conventional lubricant.
• An Ex-Mobil employee advised Mobil 1 or Castrol RS at 0W40 or 5W40 viscosity were considered by the trade to be a better replacement than ATF in the Rover 5 speed box and gave a much improved performance.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the box and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining, be amazed at the filthy color and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues (Visualize the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess).
• Refill with fully synthetic 5W40 "Castrol RS" or 0W40 "Mobil 1" (there is no discernable difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment (Comes in a tube-like applicator available from Halfords, etc).
• The transformation is miraculous from Day 1.
Mine is on its third treatment and oil change and has run immaculately for 12 years without any of the original symptoms. A total pleasure to use.
More detail here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
What a lovely iece of advice - I'll try that before my MOT in August.The bushes will defo improve things if it is simply a matter of remote/box alignment, but if its an internal box problem here is a radical solution to an unfriendly 5-speed LT77 gearbox.
• Baulking at will and very notchy. Very, very hard work, this was my last resort in 1996.
• During a routine gearbox oil level check noticed how dirty the lubricant had become so it was obvious it had to be flushed and changed. It had the recommended ATF which Rover had been forced to specify, because the gearbox was unreliable when filled with conventional lubricant.
• An Ex-Mobil employee advised Mobil 1 or Castrol RS at 0W40 or 5W40 viscosity were considered by the trade to be a better replacement than ATF in the Rover 5 speed box and gave a much improved performance.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the box and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining, be amazed at the filthy color and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues (Visualize the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess).
• Refill with fully synthetic 5W40 "Castrol RS" or 0W40 "Mobil 1" (there is no discernable difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment (Comes in a tube-like applicator available from Halfords, etc).
• The transformation is miraculous from Day 1.
Mine is on its third treatment and oil change and has run immaculately for 12 years without any of the original symptoms. A total pleasure to use.
More detail here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
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