Getting the old girl back on the road
Getting the old girl back on the road
Author
Discussion

(mick)

Original Poster:

9 posts

232 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
Hi all,

I shamefully have to admit to not using my 350i for the last 10 years and she has been stored. Quite a basic question - when I last run her I was using leaded fuel, what should I do now as I am concerned about damaging the engine?

Many thanks in advance for any advice!

so called

9,160 posts

239 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
You can buy a lead tank insert.
Its basically a lead wire basket with lead balls in.
OK, sorry,I havnt bought one for about 5 years but this was I used then.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
I'm sure all the injection car's have harderned valve seats, so should be fine will unleaded. you may want to use super for the extra octane, esp if your running high CR. or getting pinking on std.

L33

3,469 posts

254 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
You'll be finr on unleaded as the valves are hardened in any case.

You might need to have the car re-tuned to run on unleaded as it is a different octane than the 4 star you used to use.

Personally, I'd recommend deciding on what fuel your going to use. If you use standard unleaded which has an octane rating of 95 (95 RON) the optimum tuning will be slightly different if you decided to unleash a few extra horses and went for the more expensive Shell (or equivilient brand) "optimax" super unleaded which is 99 RON.

Either way, you wedge will work fine with whatever petrol you feed her with. The tuning for optimum peformance with different octane ratings does not make a huge amount of difference but is uaually just about noticable.

Hope this helps.
thumbup

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

291 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
A bit of topic, but think still related:
Would advise to not start the engine directly if it hasn't run for all this time. Change all fluids and filters, flush the fuel system as much as possible. Crank the engine without plugs on the starter after putting a little bit of oil down the cylinders. Oil pressure should be ok (pressure light should go out), if not priming of the oil pump is required. If all ok, start it up, check for 'strange' things. If ok keep the revs over 1500 up to 2000 (be nice to the camshaft) until running fine and only then take it for a spin if cooling system is ok (and only over 3000 rpm, but not a lot, after temperature is up to normal 80-90 degrees).
Could be sucking eggs here, but this is what I would do. It is very basic only and still anything could happen...........

Rob

Stever

1,571 posts

279 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
L33 said:
if you decided to unleash a few extra horses and went for the more expensive Shell (or equivilient brand) "optimax" super unleaded which is 99 RON.

:
Keep up Lee, Optimax went ages ago it's all V-Power now y'know. AFAIK This has nothing to do with ladies crotcheshehe

L33

3,469 posts

254 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
Stever said:
L33 said:
if you decided to unleash a few extra horses and went for the more expensive Shell (or equivilient brand) "optimax" super unleaded which is 99 RON.

:
Keep up Lee, Optimax went ages ago it's all V-Power now y'know. AFAIK This has nothing to do with ladies crotcheshehe
Smart arse - shell rocket fuel then hehe

Ladies crotches confused

Edited by L33 on Wednesday 18th June 09:18

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
350zwelgje said:
A bit of topic, but think still related:
Would advise to not start the engine directly if it hasn't run for all this time. Change all fluids and filters, flush the fuel system as much as possible. Crank the engine without plugs on the starter after putting a little bit of oil down the cylinders. Oil pressure should be ok (pressure light should go out), if not priming of the oil pump is required. If all ok, start it up, check for 'strange' things. If ok keep the revs over 1500 up to 2000 (be nice to the camshaft) until running fine and only then take it for a spin if cooling system is ok (and only over 3000 rpm, but not a lot, after temperature is up to normal 80-90 degrees).
Could be sucking eggs here, but this is what I would do. It is very basic only and still anything could happen...........

Rob
I would turn the engine by hand (well with a breaker bar the crank pully bolt). before cranking. but agree with the rest of the above.

you also may want to check the dissy advance is working also.

Comadis

1,731 posts

253 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
alloy-engines alays used hardened valve seats...so no worries.

ed_crouch

1,169 posts

272 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
The engine will have stopped with at least one exhaust valve off its seat.

Sometimes they can corrode (both the valve and the seat), and can need regrinding.

This is a bit of PITA, but to be honest just take the above advice and get it running. If the compressions are on the piss, it might be due to one or two exhaust valves not sealing properly. If so, whip the heads of and regrind the offending valves (or all of them).

Doesn't seem to be a problem with the inlet valves as theyre not so open to the elements, what with the throttle plate being closed.

Kinda like the biscuits not going stale if you fold the top of the packet down...

I never had this problem with mine (even running and compressions between 185 and 200 PSI), but was advised it can be an issue.

Ed.