Help a Detailing Noob!

[S6PNJ]

I finally figured I should treat my PNJ to some care and attention so am partway through clay bar-ing my car. The question is, what should I put on next? Before anyone comes up with a huge long list of products, I currently have a choice of 3 that I can use (without buying more - and yes I know there are FAR better products out there but these are what I currently have and would like to use). If all else fails, I can at least use them on the wife's car but I'd still be grateful for some advice on which is best at what etc.

I have Mothers Carnuba Wax Cleaner, Mer car polish and AutoGlym Super Resin Polish.

Once I get into this a bit more I might invest in some Dodo juice or something else - depends what I read on this forum and Polished Bliss I guess.

Over to you with the knowledge.

[evolutionvalet]

AG SRP would be my first favorite then Mothers Cleaner wax....HTH

[S6PNJ]

Yes I think it helps, although now I'm not totally sure what the carnuba cleaner wax is doing. I know the SRP is a mild abrasive (I think - aren't all polishes?) but what does the 'cleaner' bit of the Mothers product do? Won't that clean off the SRP?

[Phil 46]

have a look at www.detailingworld.co.uk

cheers
Phil

[PJ S]

Would ditch the Mer - almost as bad as T-Cut.
As for SRP - you could use that to tackle any swirls/light scratches you have, and leave it at that, or go over with the Mothers.
Chances are the cleaner element (chemical rather than abrasive? Have a feel/sniff) will at best reduce the SRP's longevity, and at worst, strip it completely, inc its fillers masking any slightly deeper marks.
Don't know if it has any fillers itself - one way to check is test on half a bootlid/bonnet, and see if after applying over the SRP, there's any marks that have reappeared again.
I suspect it will have some filling capabilities, so you may find no difference - only the beading/sheeting would change due to the carnauba.

[evolutionvalet]

The Mother's cleaner wax has a light polish in it as well as carnauba so will probably be as useful as the SRP to be honest.
So either of those would be good but I wouldnt use one on top of the other...

I am with PJ S......ditch the Mer...

[pauljc]

I too would go with the SRP from that list. It's a shame you are not going to go for a final wax or sealant to finish the job. As you are using SRP, then Autoglym's extra gloss protection would have done a good job and it's relatively cheap.

[S6PNJ]

Thanks to all for the contributions so far, for Pauljc - it's not that I won't be buying any final wax or sealant, it's more that I'd like to be able to use (in the correct order) what I already have. If there is benefit to be had from a wax/sealer, then is the Autoglym a reasonable product or are there other possible sugestions (without buying wax that costs the same as a small country!!)?

[PJ S]

The benefit of a wax/sealant is that it adds protection to your paintwork in the form of UV inhibitors, ease of contamination removal, and of course looks.
Some like SRP will have the capability to hide light marks so giving the appearance they're not there.
SRP has abrasives, which if you work, can remove some of the scratches.
Put on a layer or two of Bilt Hamber Auto Balm, and you're sorted.
Well, almost - get and use the Auto Clay first, after washing, then dry and SRP, followed by the Balm.
Alternatively, get Dodo Lime Prime Light for after SRP, and wipe on, wipe off, then layer up Victoria Concours if you prefer a wax.

[S6PNJ]

Thanks PJ, so to get the order correct (and I know there are various other threads but none with these specific products so please let me persevere)
1. wash car (done - in future will be 2 bucket etc)
2. Dry - done (with synthetic chamois and will be hollow weave thingy in future)
3. Clay-bar - in process of at the moment (Mothers yellow clay with detailer as lube)
4. Use Autoglym SRP (maybe to remove some light scratches)
5. Use Bilt Hamber Auto Balm to 'fill in the gaps'
6. Stand back and admire??

[PJ S]

Spot on!
One final addition would be to have a good long fibre microfiber cloth or two, to remove dust drom SRP'ing, and to buff the Balm.
One extra step would be to have a microsuede to give a final buff, to really bring the shine out.
Oh, and don't forget the obligatory beer or two to congratulate yourself on all the hard work you put in......just as it starts to rain!

[thewave]

Then, when you become a real freak, you'll end up spending £00s on polishing machines, £10 on a bloody bucket grit guard! and £19 on a spray seal! etc etc




However, the car has never looked so good, machine polishing for the first time was revolutionary.
Can't wait to do a proper detail on the steed now, not the family hack

Zaino Z8 is the future by the way.

I couldn't tell the difference between my 50/50 Purple Haze and EGP bonnet test (visually) but once I applied the Z8 wow! I could actually notice a more refined glossy look...amazing stuff (I applied over the EGP first, then continued over the dodo, looked the same, but better than wax or sealant alone.

[S6PNJ]

Regarding polishing machines and the fact that ramdom orbital ones are safer in novices hands than circular, can I convert my Black and Decker random orbital sander so that I can use it with the various pads and applicators etc? I know I can 'physically' convert it to take the pads etc but are the speeds compatible etc?

[PJ S]

thewave said:

Then, when you become a real freak, you'll end up spending £00s on polishing machines, £10 on a bloody bucket grit guard! and £19 on a spray seal! etc etc




However, the car has never looked so good, machine polishing for the first time was revolutionary.
Can't wait to do a proper detail on the steed now, not the family hack

Zaino Z8 is the future by the way.

I couldn't tell the difference between my 50/50 Purple Haze and EGP bonnet test (visually) but once I applied the Z8 wow! I could actually notice a more refined glossy look...amazing stuff (I applied over the EGP first, then continued over the dodo, looked the same, but better than wax or sealant alone.

Might want to try out the combo with Auto Balm, or go completely Zaino and Z-2/5 depending on whether the car is wearing clearcoat or singlestage.

[PJ S]

S6PNJ said:

Regarding polishing machines and the fact that ramdom orbital ones are safer in novices hands than circular, can I convert my Black and Decker random orbital sander so that I can use it with the various pads and applicators etc? I know I can 'physically' convert it to take the pads etc but are the speeds compatible etc?

What speeds and throw does it have?
Or what's the model number?
B&D own Porter Cable, in case you didn't know.

[S6PNJ]

PJ S said:

depending on whether the car is wearing clearcoat or singlestage.

How would I find this out? The colour is Chameleon Blue (Swordfish colour) - does this make any diffence?

Ref the sander - I'll look when I get home at the model and speeds etc.

[S6PNJ]

PJ S said:

What speeds and throw does it have?
Or what's the model number?
B&D own Porter Cable, in case you didn't know.

Speeds - two slow and fast!!! Seriously, I can't find any mention of actual speeds in the manual
Model BD190S
No, I didn't know B&D owned Porter Cable.

Looking through the manual it says there is accessory A2316 Lambswool Bonnet (for polishing eg car body) now all I have to do is find where I can get one!

[PJ S]

S6PNJ said:

PJ S said:

depending on whether the car is wearing clearcoat or singlestage.

How would I find this out? The colour is Chameleon Blue (Swordfish colour) - does this make any diffence?

Ref the sander - I'll look when I get home at the model and speeds etc.

Ah, a TVR - it'll be cleared. Flip paints were never available as singlestage.

[PJ S]

S6PNJ said:

PJ S said:

What speeds and throw does it have?
Or what's the model number?
B&D own Porter Cable, in case you didn't know.

Speeds - two slow and fast!!! Seriously, I can't find any mention of actual speeds in the manual
Model BD190S
No, I didn't know B&D owned Porter Cable.

Looking through the manual it says there is accessory A2316 Lambswool Bonnet (for polishing eg car body) now all I have to do is find where I can get one!

Having to admit defeat on finding anything meaningful out about it.
From what I did, I'd be rather wary of putting it near your car's paint.
Looks like a proper bona fide polisher is something you'll need to consider.
Alternatively, stick with something like Auto Balm to mask the swirls (it can't perform miracles, so every single one might not disappear, but the bulk of the light ones will) or pay a pro to correct the paint, leaving you with a nice clean slate to maintain thereafter with proper washing and drying techniques.