VW Corrado VR6 buying advice
Discussion
Hi,
I'm looking to buy a VW Corrado VR6 later in the year - having searched these forums the general advice seems to be go for a later model standard VR6 rather than a Storm edition. Having had a good look around, they do seem to be overpriced, so I'm happy to go with that advice.
I would love to get a low-ish mileage, clean car with heated leather interior and all electric bits working (spoiler, sunroof, etc), but budgetary constraints mean I'll have to compromise.
My main question is - is a high mileage (over 150,000 miles) an issue with a well-maintained car? I've had a look at the buying guide on the-corrado.net, but can't see any major expenses that would be an issue with this kind of mileage. Is there anything nasty and expensive that will need doing?
Or would I be better off getting a lower mileage car and paying to get bodywork, electrics etc sorted?
Thanks in advance, please be nice, this is my first post and I normally ride around on 2 wheels... :-)
I'm looking to buy a VW Corrado VR6 later in the year - having searched these forums the general advice seems to be go for a later model standard VR6 rather than a Storm edition. Having had a good look around, they do seem to be overpriced, so I'm happy to go with that advice.
I would love to get a low-ish mileage, clean car with heated leather interior and all electric bits working (spoiler, sunroof, etc), but budgetary constraints mean I'll have to compromise.
My main question is - is a high mileage (over 150,000 miles) an issue with a well-maintained car? I've had a look at the buying guide on the-corrado.net, but can't see any major expenses that would be an issue with this kind of mileage. Is there anything nasty and expensive that will need doing?
Or would I be better off getting a lower mileage car and paying to get bodywork, electrics etc sorted?
Thanks in advance, please be nice, this is my first post and I normally ride around on 2 wheels... :-)
My VR6 is on 176K miles, and goes and handles like new. However, in order to achieve this it's been completely rebushed, with new dampers & springs. Water pumps go eventually, as does the serpentine services belt tensioner on the side of the engine. Head gasket went at 120k. In fact it had a complete bottom-end rebuild at 70k miles due to piston slap, but my engine is quite extensively modified and I think the owner at the time didn't exactly baby it!
Buy on condition, rather than mileage. The VR6 can do big miles with ease as long as it is looked after.
The main thing that needs done on VR6 engines is timing chain & tensioner replacement. Timing chain rattle will become evident if the tensioner is worn (sounds like marbles being rattled in a tin can). Can happen at any mileage from 80k or so onwards, and wear is progressive. It's quite an expensive job, and you might as well do the clutch at the same time, no extra labour involved.
VR6 misfires are often coilpack problems. If the idle is uneven and it stalls on the move it's often the ISV (Idle Stabilisation Valve) needing some carb cleaner through it rather than anything expensive.
On startup there me be a bit of top-end rattle, but this should go away almost immediately. VR6s can be prone to piston-slap, which is a thudding/knocking noise when cold after start. If it lasts more than a few seconds I'd walk away. It tends to be the long-term result of labouring the engine when cold after start. VR6s don't like this.
On the test-drive the car should pull effortlessly and smoothly. Power delivery feels quite linear. It's quite a torquey engine, but there's not as much performance as you'd think below 3500 rpm or so.
Handling should be excellent. Turn-in is positive, there should be a decent amount of granular feedback through the rim of the wheel. If the bushes are in good nick you should feel a degree of tuck-in if you come off throttle in corners, as the car has passive rear-steer. Torque-steer should be minimal in a good VR6, even at full throttle in low gears. The traction control system is complete crap, only works at very low speeds and doesn't make much effort to limit wheelspin anyway.
Keep it running for a while after the test drive, make sure the water temp doesn't redline, head-gasket failure isn't uncommon. After shutdown a small electric water pump should keep coolant circulating for a while to prevent HG failure due to uneven cooling.
Electric sunroof problems are very common on Corrados. Often they will tilt but not slide. Fixing is a bit of a hassle. Door handles are fragile and tend to snap, the same with headlight switches. Active rear-wings often don't pop-up when they should. Leather and heated seats are indeed nice, but aircon is very rare. I have it fitted to mine, but it was a dealer option fitted once the cars reached the UK.
I'd agree not to pay extra for a Storm. Purely a badging exercise, other than the Solitude alloys there was nothing on the cars that couldn't be specced on a normal VR6.
Economy-wise I get 27-28 mpg average, lower 20s when having fun. VW specify 98 octane, but they can be run on 95. Parts can be comedically expensive; don't crash one. Bumpers are £500 each, unpainted... Any sub-standard bodywork I would walk away from, even minor body damage can mean an insurance writeoff.
Buy on condition, rather than mileage. The VR6 can do big miles with ease as long as it is looked after.
The main thing that needs done on VR6 engines is timing chain & tensioner replacement. Timing chain rattle will become evident if the tensioner is worn (sounds like marbles being rattled in a tin can). Can happen at any mileage from 80k or so onwards, and wear is progressive. It's quite an expensive job, and you might as well do the clutch at the same time, no extra labour involved.
VR6 misfires are often coilpack problems. If the idle is uneven and it stalls on the move it's often the ISV (Idle Stabilisation Valve) needing some carb cleaner through it rather than anything expensive.
On startup there me be a bit of top-end rattle, but this should go away almost immediately. VR6s can be prone to piston-slap, which is a thudding/knocking noise when cold after start. If it lasts more than a few seconds I'd walk away. It tends to be the long-term result of labouring the engine when cold after start. VR6s don't like this.
On the test-drive the car should pull effortlessly and smoothly. Power delivery feels quite linear. It's quite a torquey engine, but there's not as much performance as you'd think below 3500 rpm or so.
Handling should be excellent. Turn-in is positive, there should be a decent amount of granular feedback through the rim of the wheel. If the bushes are in good nick you should feel a degree of tuck-in if you come off throttle in corners, as the car has passive rear-steer. Torque-steer should be minimal in a good VR6, even at full throttle in low gears. The traction control system is complete crap, only works at very low speeds and doesn't make much effort to limit wheelspin anyway.
Keep it running for a while after the test drive, make sure the water temp doesn't redline, head-gasket failure isn't uncommon. After shutdown a small electric water pump should keep coolant circulating for a while to prevent HG failure due to uneven cooling.
Electric sunroof problems are very common on Corrados. Often they will tilt but not slide. Fixing is a bit of a hassle. Door handles are fragile and tend to snap, the same with headlight switches. Active rear-wings often don't pop-up when they should. Leather and heated seats are indeed nice, but aircon is very rare. I have it fitted to mine, but it was a dealer option fitted once the cars reached the UK.
I'd agree not to pay extra for a Storm. Purely a badging exercise, other than the Solitude alloys there was nothing on the cars that couldn't be specced on a normal VR6.
Economy-wise I get 27-28 mpg average, lower 20s when having fun. VW specify 98 octane, but they can be run on 95. Parts can be comedically expensive; don't crash one. Bumpers are £500 each, unpainted... Any sub-standard bodywork I would walk away from, even minor body damage can mean an insurance writeoff.
Edited by speedtwelve on Wednesday 18th June 17:17
Yes, I'm budgeting for about £3k. Do you mean http://www.the-corrado.net/forum/? If so, yes I've had a look around and there's some good info there.
Hello MrsPeel!
I've only just seen this thread. I got plenty of useful advice when I started this thread (almost four years ago
):
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f...
Trying to find a good one can be a bit soul destroying, especially when the vendors appear to know nothing about cars. It is worth looking long and hard to find a good one. I'd recommend you get one that has been well maintained so that you don't spend a fortune on replacement parts. Do bear in mind that parts and spares can be very expensive. I'd echo advice on getting one with good bodywork too as replacement panels etc. are hard to come by. They are lots of fun but they are not cheap to run.
I've only just seen this thread. I got plenty of useful advice when I started this thread (almost four years ago
):http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f...
Trying to find a good one can be a bit soul destroying, especially when the vendors appear to know nothing about cars. It is worth looking long and hard to find a good one. I'd recommend you get one that has been well maintained so that you don't spend a fortune on replacement parts. Do bear in mind that parts and spares can be very expensive. I'd echo advice on getting one with good bodywork too as replacement panels etc. are hard to come by. They are lots of fun but they are not cheap to run.
I bought mine 18 months ago with only 80k on it.
It had been looked after but I have had to replace all the brakes, all bushes and suspension. This was due to age really. Car is superb now and stops on a dime.
I went for a low milage one because I thought it would save me having to do all this but I was wrong. Far better go for a 120k+ car that has had the work done as the rear bushes are a pain to do. (I heard they are supposed to be changed every 40k anyway, dont know if thats true)
Mine has heated leather which is horrible if you leave it in sunshine for a long time because it gets so hot in the car and no air-con.
Best car I have ever owned for drivability though. And noise.
Good luck.
It had been looked after but I have had to replace all the brakes, all bushes and suspension. This was due to age really. Car is superb now and stops on a dime.
I went for a low milage one because I thought it would save me having to do all this but I was wrong. Far better go for a 120k+ car that has had the work done as the rear bushes are a pain to do. (I heard they are supposed to be changed every 40k anyway, dont know if thats true)
Mine has heated leather which is horrible if you leave it in sunshine for a long time because it gets so hot in the car and no air-con.
Best car I have ever owned for drivability though. And noise.
Good luck.
RadoVR6 said:
...noise...
Sound please
I wanted black leather seats but having done a European tour in blistering heat I was glad I didn't as bare flesh on hot leather is painful.
Air-con can go wrong in the older Corrado MrsPeel and it is expensive to repair, not to mention the added fuel consumption.
EmmaP said:
First of all I must say that I don't have air-con. Around town I get on average 13MPG. If I am being heavy on and off the gas I can get as little as 8MPG. On a spirited cross-country run I can get 27MPG. On a steady motorway run I get at best 33MPG.
13 mpg round town? Is it standard?RadoVR6 said:
EmmaP said:
First of all I must say that I don't have air-con. Around town I get on average 13MPG. If I am being heavy on and off the gas I can get as little as 8MPG. On a spirited cross-country run I can get 27MPG. On a steady motorway run I get at best 33MPG.
13 mpg round town? Is it standard?EmmaP said:
RadoVR6 said:
EmmaP said:
First of all I must say that I don't have air-con. Around town I get on average 13MPG. If I am being heavy on and off the gas I can get as little as 8MPG. On a spirited cross-country run I can get 27MPG. On a steady motorway run I get at best 33MPG.
13 mpg round town? Is it standard?Motorway I can get 35+ if i am at a steady 70ish.
I get around 20mpg around town with a very modified engine and I don't think I exactly hang about. I suspect EmmaP has a fuel tank leak! JonRB uses his to commute a lot so the comparison isn't strictly fair I think.
On a serious point though do not expect a VR6 Corrado to be a cheap car to run. They're pretty solid, reliable cars but even the youngest of them will be 12 years old now, VW parts prices are fairly "strong" and given the nature of the car (genuine 150mph capability) you cannot risk skimping on service items.
Personally I agree with the guys above. You won't find a genuine low mileage car at the price you've indicated anyway, but if looking for a 120k+ example it's worth looking through the history & bills to look for a £1500-£2000 bill involving chain, tensioner, valve guide replacements and similar "head off" type stuff.
All the other things you need to look for are in the buyers' guides you've already read. Good luck!
On a serious point though do not expect a VR6 Corrado to be a cheap car to run. They're pretty solid, reliable cars but even the youngest of them will be 12 years old now, VW parts prices are fairly "strong" and given the nature of the car (genuine 150mph capability) you cannot risk skimping on service items.
Personally I agree with the guys above. You won't find a genuine low mileage car at the price you've indicated anyway, but if looking for a 120k+ example it's worth looking through the history & bills to look for a £1500-£2000 bill involving chain, tensioner, valve guide replacements and similar "head off" type stuff.
All the other things you need to look for are in the buyers' guides you've already read. Good luck!
Edited by corozin on Wednesday 25th June 23:05
I don't think I have a fuel leak. At least there is no evidence to suggest that. I'm sure I'd have noticed and it's in the garage on the ramp often enough for them to have noticed. Like I said, I drive around town doing lots of stop-starts and live in a district where all the roads have speed bumps. I think my B road and motorway driving is comparable to that of Jon's.
Iwas only pulling your leg a bit about the tank Emma - but seriously I can only get mine down to about 8.5mpg on trackdays! If you drive a short drive (<3 mile) briskly on a cold engine you'll get down to 6mpg-ish. From what you've said thats probably the cause.
Edited by corozin on Thursday 26th June 00:20
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