ignition /fuel problem ?
Discussion
any help please
griff 500 on the way home i came to a stop at a junction and it just died and would not restart , lucky i was only a short distance from home so got wife/friends to help push it into garage
anyway i have noticed that the fuel pump does not come on when the ignition is switched on so i wired it up direct to the battery and the pump runs fine
ive got a spark and fuel is getting there as i pulled the pipe from the engine and fuel came out {when wired up to battery} but it just wont fire up
any ideas
griff 500 on the way home i came to a stop at a junction and it just died and would not restart , lucky i was only a short distance from home so got wife/friends to help push it into garage
anyway i have noticed that the fuel pump does not come on when the ignition is switched on so i wired it up direct to the battery and the pump runs fine
ive got a spark and fuel is getting there as i pulled the pipe from the engine and fuel came out {when wired up to battery} but it just wont fire up
any ideas
Sounds to me as if you could have a problem with your immobiliser.
They shut down several areas including the petrol pump feed if they fail.
As you have established a fuel supply it could well another feed e.g. to the ECU that allows the injectors to pulse that has also failed. An injector pulse tester will establish the presence of a pulse:
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode...
A bit of a specialist job to sort unless you have electronic knowledge.
They shut down several areas including the petrol pump feed if they fail.
As you have established a fuel supply it could well another feed e.g. to the ECU that allows the injectors to pulse that has also failed. An injector pulse tester will establish the presence of a pulse:
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode...
A bit of a specialist job to sort unless you have electronic knowledge.
Edited by Loubaruch on Thursday 19th June 23:20
Sound to me like your fuel pump relay might be the candidate (silver relay loose in the loom above the battery). Just becasue fuel gets to the engine when the pump is hotwired doesn't mean it's getting there under normal conditions. The ecu controls whether or not the fuel pump operates, and the fact that it's not priming suggests to me that the pump is not working under normal conditions.
griffter said:
Sound to me like your fuel pump relay might be the candidate (silver relay loose in the loom above the battery). Just becasue fuel gets to the engine when the pump is hotwired doesn't mean it's getting there under normal conditions. The ecu controls whether or not the fuel pump operates, and the fact that it's not priming suggests to me that the pump is not working under normal conditions.
Ditto that, would be the first port of call IMHOBB
Uncle Fester said:
Pasco said:
Johno said:
Sounds like an issue with the inertia switch, hidden behind love box. Do you have an 'i' light on the dashboard ?
Love Box 
x 1000,000 

I thought there was a thread that reached the consensus that it was impossible in a Griff.
V8 Animal said:
Uncle Fester said:
Pasco said:
Johno said:
Sounds like an issue with the inertia switch, hidden behind love box. Do you have an 'i' light on the dashboard ?
Love Box 
x 1000,000 

I thought there was a thread that reached the consensus that it was impossible in a Griff.

Or not as the case might be

tuscrv8 - did you try to start the car with the fuel pump hot wored, or just establish the pump was working?
As GreenV8S says:
If you've got fuel with pump hotwired, and you've got a spark, I'd start to suspect injector bank wiring fault (check loom around the back of o/s cylinder head where it can chafe) or possibly ecu.
I'm not sure a single sensor failure (e.g. afm / temp sensor / lambda) would necessarily cause the car to completely fail to start?
As GreenV8S says:
GreenV8S said:
If it's merely the relay then hotwiring the pump would be sufficient to get the engine running.
Agreed, therefore it may be the ecu control of the relay which is suspect. But it isn't the engine speed signal as that wouldn't affect the priming.If you've got fuel with pump hotwired, and you've got a spark, I'd start to suspect injector bank wiring fault (check loom around the back of o/s cylinder head where it can chafe) or possibly ecu.
I'm not sure a single sensor failure (e.g. afm / temp sensor / lambda) would necessarily cause the car to completely fail to start?
griffter said:
tuscrv8 - did you try to start the car with the fuel pump hot wored, or just establish the pump was working?
As GreenV8S says:
If you've got fuel with pump hotwired, and you've got a spark, I'd start to suspect injector bank wiring fault (check loom around the back of o/s cylinder head where it can chafe) or possibly ecu.
I'm not sure a single sensor failure (e.g. afm / temp sensor / lambda) would necessarily cause the car to completely fail to start?
Hot Wored As GreenV8S says:
GreenV8S said:
If it's merely the relay then hotwiring the pump would be sufficient to get the engine running.
Agreed, therefore it may be the ecu control of the relay which is suspect. But it isn't the engine speed signal as that wouldn't affect the priming.If you've got fuel with pump hotwired, and you've got a spark, I'd start to suspect injector bank wiring fault (check loom around the back of o/s cylinder head where it can chafe) or possibly ecu.
I'm not sure a single sensor failure (e.g. afm / temp sensor / lambda) would necessarily cause the car to completely fail to start?
It gets better 
I may be able to match up one of my spare 14cux's with yours? What are the landrover code numbers on the lid and if possible email me a pic of the PCB top side. It appears that the driver chip next to the main eprom in the replacement ecu has to be the same as the original, could be one of two types?
tuscrv8 said:
ECU IS 14CUX PRC7081
DATE CODE 4589
ALSO HAS NUMBERS 85007D ON CASING
MANY THANKS
At this point we need someone more knowledgable to wade in. But that's a 1989 date code and I think the 7081 is the one with a jumper wire (it's a different generation to the later units though I don't know if/how it differs electrically), and is not socketed (originally). I very much doubt that's the original ecu, certainly for a 5 litre. Does it have a TVR chip in it?DATE CODE 4589
ALSO HAS NUMBERS 85007D ON CASING
MANY THANKS
Edited by griffter on Monday 23 June 12:37
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