Who's interested in Anti roll (sway) bars?
Discussion
I have developed a true bolt on anti roll bar solution for the Ultimas, front and rear.
The kit uses "knives" so the strength of the bar can be fully adjustable from mild to wild. Just loosen one hexbolt and turn the knife to make it harder or looser. The kit includes everything needed and the droplinks etc are anodized billet aluminium and the metal parts are power coated. No welding or other modifications to the chassi is needed and the installation looks very "factory made" with the best quality on all parts.
I use the prototype on my own car now and if there is interest I will produce a small batch and sell. They will cost less than £1.300 maybe down to £1.200.
If interest I can start delivery late July (must have a few more track days on the prototypes before I can sell them)
The kit uses "knives" so the strength of the bar can be fully adjustable from mild to wild. Just loosen one hexbolt and turn the knife to make it harder or looser. The kit includes everything needed and the droplinks etc are anodized billet aluminium and the metal parts are power coated. No welding or other modifications to the chassi is needed and the installation looks very "factory made" with the best quality on all parts.
I use the prototype on my own car now and if there is interest I will produce a small batch and sell. They will cost less than £1.300 maybe down to £1.200.
If interest I can start delivery late July (must have a few more track days on the prototypes before I can sell them)
Here's a picture of the main parts

This is the front anti roll bar. Please remember that this i protyp 1.0 the droplinks and mounts will look much better (anodized billet alu) on the production version. And the bar will be powder coated.

I don't have figures about spring constants. The bar is 35mm. The difference between having both knifes flat compared to having them both in upright possition is amazing.
So how do you like it??

This is the front anti roll bar. Please remember that this i protyp 1.0 the droplinks and mounts will look much better (anodized billet alu) on the production version. And the bar will be powder coated.

I don't have figures about spring constants. The bar is 35mm. The difference between having both knifes flat compared to having them both in upright possition is amazing.
So how do you like it??
GTR-TT said:
Steve_D said:
How does the cross tube attach to the chassis?
Steve
The square looking clamp has an U-bracket on the underside that is bolted to the stock A-arm mounts. Steve
Have to say I'm not happy with that as you are now putting considerably more load into the mount which it was never designed for. Also the loads you are applying are at 90 degrees to the axis the mount is designed for.
Steve
Steve_D said:
GTR-TT said:
Steve_D said:
How does the cross tube attach to the chassis?
Steve
The square looking clamp has an U-bracket on the underside that is bolted to the stock A-arm mounts. Steve
Have to say I'm not happy with that as you are now putting considerably more load into the mount which it was never designed for. Also the loads you are applying are at 90 degrees to the axis the mount is designed for.
Steve
GTR-TT said:
Steve_D said:
GTR-TT said:
Steve_D said:
How does the cross tube attach to the chassis?
Steve
The square looking clamp has an U-bracket on the underside that is bolted to the stock A-arm mounts. Steve
Have to say I'm not happy with that as you are now putting considerably more load into the mount which it was never designed for. Also the loads you are applying are at 90 degrees to the axis the mount is designed for.
Steve
Regards
pilbeam_mp62 said:
Call me old-fashioned, but I would have considered consulting a chassis specialist BEFORE laying out more than a thousand pounds on a prototype - just my opinion - please don't take any offence.
Regards
I've done that. But when this question was rised I felt that it would be good with a third, forth and fifth opinion...Regards
And the answer from the jury is: "No problem. Go ahead." There are several other kit cars and race cars that have similar solutions, for example raceleda westfields. I have tested the car on road and track and haven't seen any problems with the solution and I will have two days on the track this friday and saturday. After that I will stress test the solution and measure if there is any flex at all in the mounts, just to make sure.
I want this solution to be as good as possible. Between 6-21 july I will have 5-10 days more on the track. If I come back from that trip without any problems I would say that this kit is "good enough"

Heres and example of similar solution but even weaker since it bolts on just one side of the mount.
Edited by GTR-TT on Wednesday 25th June 14:37
Not the way I see it
I'm thinking that an Anti roll bar is a load sharing device -Wouldnt the loads at each end of the bar be the same?
The idea is to distribute the loads equally to the other side of the car..... in which case, wouldnt the loads on a car with an anti-roll bar would be less than one without?
I wouldnt have thought the connection detail would be an issue.
(but Im not a chassis expert either)
I'm thinking that an Anti roll bar is a load sharing device -Wouldnt the loads at each end of the bar be the same?
The idea is to distribute the loads equally to the other side of the car..... in which case, wouldnt the loads on a car with an anti-roll bar would be less than one without?
I wouldnt have thought the connection detail would be an issue.
(but Im not a chassis expert either)
Edited by crafty on Thursday 26th June 02:57
crafty said:
Not the way I see it
I'm thinking that an Anti roll bar is a load sharing device -Wouldnt the loads at each end of the bar be the same?
The idea is to distribute the loads equally to the other side of the car..... in which case, wouldn't the loads on a car with an anti-roll bar would be less than one without?
I wouldn't have thought the connection detail would be an issue.
(but I'm not a chassis expert either)
The anti roll bar is transferring load to the other side but in doing so it is actually relieving load from the spring on the loaded side and transferring that via the cross tube. The cross tube mount is now acting as a fulcrum for the leverage in the roll bar and the loads are, primarily, acting up and down. The loads from the upper wishbone will be predominately acting across the chassis. The Raceleda example is not so bad as the mount on the chassis is at a 45 degree angle meaning it is better able to cope with the loads in 2 different planes.I'm thinking that an Anti roll bar is a load sharing device -Wouldnt the loads at each end of the bar be the same?
The idea is to distribute the loads equally to the other side of the car..... in which case, wouldn't the loads on a car with an anti-roll bar would be less than one without?
I wouldn't have thought the connection detail would be an issue.
(but I'm not a chassis expert either)
I bet the Factory was not one of the jury saying: "No problem. Go ahead.".
Steve
I've been pondering this and trying to visualise the load.
The problem is the bar is in twist so the load on the wishbone joint is both directions (up and down)... and a wishbone mount wont take load in that place but instead a forward and back motion as the weight is taken through the shock whose mount is designed for vertical loads.
Now notwithsanding I was pondering as to if this change of load is significant enough to warrant concern and I must admit I really can't decide. I peronally think the chasis is Strong enough to take the load at that point but I am not convinced its ridgid enough.
If it was me I would probably brace the mounting point with a removable diagonal somehow, but then I am a belt and braces kind of guy like Steve and it probably would be overkill.
The problem is the bar is in twist so the load on the wishbone joint is both directions (up and down)... and a wishbone mount wont take load in that place but instead a forward and back motion as the weight is taken through the shock whose mount is designed for vertical loads.
Now notwithsanding I was pondering as to if this change of load is significant enough to warrant concern and I must admit I really can't decide. I peronally think the chasis is Strong enough to take the load at that point but I am not convinced its ridgid enough.
If it was me I would probably brace the mounting point with a removable diagonal somehow, but then I am a belt and braces kind of guy like Steve and it probably would be overkill.
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Looks proper TT , the round tube that goes through the hole in the bodywork , are there any clamps internally on this tube attached to the chassis....??? Sooooooo.... tell us what was the noticable difference to the cars handling.....