Drivers window not going up, why can't I just use a handle??
Discussion
Yes yes, the whole button on the mirror might be bloody cool, but whats the point when the whole thing doesn't do what its supposed to do! 
Have read the few topics on this subject, checking the reed sensor, the microswitch, unplugging the control box, and they've helped me to fault find, but not quite got me to the solution. I've now got to the point where I'm struggling to go through things logically and narrow things down further, so hoping someone can joint in and give me a bit of a hand.
By the way, all multimeter readings were taken at the control box connectors.
Pretty sure its not the reed switch. I get a good 12V when open, and 0v when closed. And under all circumstances, after I've closed the door, the interior lights go out after a couple of seconds.
I don't think its the 'window open' micro switch. Tested it with my finger closing it and getting a good 12v when the window is down/open. Tested it by taking the window down and its the same story.
Under all circumstances the window will always come down (if not already down) when I open the door.
Sometimes, when I open the door, it looks like the window comes down too far, perhaps then tricking the control box into thinking the window is down and thats why it doesn't go up again. However, even after winding the window down/up, up/down the window still won't return to the top when the door is closed.
Most of the time, with the door shut, the interior switches to wind the window up/down don't work. Open the door and the interior switches all work fine.
I'm thinking its either a dodgy connection on the motor in the door, or a faulty control box. Anyone else have a different opinion?
Have read the few topics on this subject, checking the reed sensor, the microswitch, unplugging the control box, and they've helped me to fault find, but not quite got me to the solution. I've now got to the point where I'm struggling to go through things logically and narrow things down further, so hoping someone can joint in and give me a bit of a hand.
By the way, all multimeter readings were taken at the control box connectors.
Pretty sure its not the reed switch. I get a good 12V when open, and 0v when closed. And under all circumstances, after I've closed the door, the interior lights go out after a couple of seconds.
I don't think its the 'window open' micro switch. Tested it with my finger closing it and getting a good 12v when the window is down/open. Tested it by taking the window down and its the same story.
Under all circumstances the window will always come down (if not already down) when I open the door.
Sometimes, when I open the door, it looks like the window comes down too far, perhaps then tricking the control box into thinking the window is down and thats why it doesn't go up again. However, even after winding the window down/up, up/down the window still won't return to the top when the door is closed.
Most of the time, with the door shut, the interior switches to wind the window up/down don't work. Open the door and the interior switches all work fine.
I'm thinking its either a dodgy connection on the motor in the door, or a faulty control box. Anyone else have a different opinion?
Was hoping it was a contact. Having said that, if it was the control box it would be a much easier fix! If a little more expensive.
What do people recommend for cleaning the connections, I've been using electrical contact spray up till now? I might actually just get some proper modern car connectors, or maybe some aircraft connectors, make sure I don't have the problem again...
What do people recommend for cleaning the connections, I've been using electrical contact spray up till now? I might actually just get some proper modern car connectors, or maybe some aircraft connectors, make sure I don't have the problem again...
Hmmm, there are two schools of thought on soldering wires for automotive use. One school is that the wires need to flex, and that the solder can't cope with the vibrations often found in cars when driving, and so over time the solder cracks leading to problems again. The other school is that this is nonsense...
Personally I'd put myself in the first group. If a suitable, good quality connector is used (and I don't mean the terminals you get from Halfrauds), then there really shouldn't be any problems with it in future...
Personally I'd put myself in the first group. If a suitable, good quality connector is used (and I don't mean the terminals you get from Halfrauds), then there really shouldn't be any problems with it in future...
Just to come back to this, been trying to sort out the problem all night! Changed the connector for the motor, and the connector for the microswitch and both are absolutely fine.
Anyway, I've narrowed it down to the fact that if I keep my finger on the interior 'Window Down' button with the door open, the window will go down. However, if I keep my finger on the button, and start closing the door, as soon as the door is nearly over the doorstep the window ceases to go down. I thought initially this pointed to a duff reed switch or something, but I disconnect the reed switch and the problem persisted. So now I think its a broken connection in the loom as it passes from the door to the body.
Quick couple of questions: Is the door loom separate? Is there a big connector somewhere either door side or body side? Or is this going to be a case of either running a new line, or spend weeks cutting up the loom to try and track down the break?
Anyway, I've narrowed it down to the fact that if I keep my finger on the interior 'Window Down' button with the door open, the window will go down. However, if I keep my finger on the button, and start closing the door, as soon as the door is nearly over the doorstep the window ceases to go down. I thought initially this pointed to a duff reed switch or something, but I disconnect the reed switch and the problem persisted. So now I think its a broken connection in the loom as it passes from the door to the body.
Quick couple of questions: Is the door loom separate? Is there a big connector somewhere either door side or body side? Or is this going to be a case of either running a new line, or spend weeks cutting up the loom to try and track down the break?
jammy_basturd said:
Have bought a weatherproof connector (AMP Superseals) from WVP. Am planning to just change all the connectors inside the drivers door as they all looked a little corroded. Should do that either tomorrow night, or Saturday. Will let people know how I get on.
Oooooooo!*Googles AMP Superseals*
.............Nothing obvious, can you post a link?
Edited by Duke Thrust on Thursday 3rd July 07:57
jammy_basturd said:
Just to come back to this, been trying to sort out the problem all night! Changed the connector for the motor, and the connector for the microswitch and both are absolutely fine.
Anyway, I've narrowed it down to the fact that if I keep my finger on the interior 'Window Down' button with the door open, the window will go down. However, if I keep my finger on the button, and start closing the door, as soon as the door is nearly over the doorstep the window ceases to go down. I thought initially this pointed to a duff reed switch or something, but I disconnect the reed switch and the problem persisted. So now I think its a broken connection in the loom as it passes from the door to the body.
Quick couple of questions: Is the door loom separate? Is there a big connector somewhere either door side or body side? Or is this going to be a case of either running a new line, or spend weeks cutting up the loom to try and track down the break?
Have you checked the big connector inside the door ?Anyway, I've narrowed it down to the fact that if I keep my finger on the interior 'Window Down' button with the door open, the window will go down. However, if I keep my finger on the button, and start closing the door, as soon as the door is nearly over the doorstep the window ceases to go down. I thought initially this pointed to a duff reed switch or something, but I disconnect the reed switch and the problem persisted. So now I think its a broken connection in the loom as it passes from the door to the body.
Quick couple of questions: Is the door loom separate? Is there a big connector somewhere either door side or body side? Or is this going to be a case of either running a new line, or spend weeks cutting up the loom to try and track down the break?
Thats where the problem was in my Cerb.
Those connectors were from Vehicle-Wiring-Products, google them and you should find it...
Just to make it easy.. 2/3rds the way down, listed as weatherproof connectors. The whole box is relatively expensive, but worth it imo if you want a future proof loom.
I haven't checked the big connector yet no, didn't realise there was one. Thats my job for tonight me thinks.
Thanks.
Just to make it easy.. 2/3rds the way down, listed as weatherproof connectors. The whole box is relatively expensive, but worth it imo if you want a future proof loom.
I haven't checked the big connector yet no, didn't realise there was one. Thats my job for tonight me thinks.
Thanks.
jammy_basturd said:
Those connectors were from Vehicle-Wiring-Products, google them and you should find it...
Just to make it easy.. 2/3rds the way down, listed as weatherproof connectors. The whole box is relatively expensive, but worth it imo if you want a future proof loom.
I haven't checked the big connector yet no, didn't realise there was one. Thats my job for tonight me thinks.
Thanks.
Ta Just to make it easy.. 2/3rds the way down, listed as weatherproof connectors. The whole box is relatively expensive, but worth it imo if you want a future proof loom.
I haven't checked the big connector yet no, didn't realise there was one. Thats my job for tonight me thinks.
Thanks.
Doh, went to all the trouble to get the webpage up, then forgot to add the link in my post!
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
jammy_basturd said:
Doh, went to all the trouble to get the webpage up, then forgot to add the link in my post!
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
Ta http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
The do look good, going to do the headlight conversion (front and back) and I think it's worth getting decent connectors (especially on the front).
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on them.
I think they work really well, definitely better than anything else I've tried before, especially those horrid 'insulated' things from Halfords! I'm not kidding myself that they'll never allow moisture into the connection, but they should be much much better than the other common connectors.
One problem I've had using them is getting the metal crimp to 'click' into the connector housing. I've had a to re-crimp a couple of wires, and use long nose pliers a couple of times too. Just like putting the HT leads on a Cerb, if you don't hear it click then its going to be useless, as when you put the two halves of the connector together, the wire will just be pushed out of the back of the connector.
One problem I've had using them is getting the metal crimp to 'click' into the connector housing. I've had a to re-crimp a couple of wires, and use long nose pliers a couple of times too. Just like putting the HT leads on a Cerb, if you don't hear it click then its going to be useless, as when you put the two halves of the connector together, the wire will just be pushed out of the back of the connector.
This one has really got me stumped now!
Ignoring the fact that the window doesn't go up when I close the door...
With the door shut, the window up/down buttons don't work. As soon as you open the door an inch or two, the window springs into life. With the door closed, I get 12v at the motor, but it doesn't do anything...? To me it seems like with the door closed, there is something physically stopping the motor from moving, but I might be on completely the wrong track...
Really running out of things to look for now!
Ignoring the fact that the window doesn't go up when I close the door...
With the door shut, the window up/down buttons don't work. As soon as you open the door an inch or two, the window springs into life. With the door closed, I get 12v at the motor, but it doesn't do anything...? To me it seems like with the door closed, there is something physically stopping the motor from moving, but I might be on completely the wrong track...
Really running out of things to look for now!
Surely it has to be the flex in the loom as the door closes, one of the wires may have become brittle and the flex of the cable causes a dodgy connection? or maybe the insulation between two wires has perished and shorts with the flexing?
Having not gotten inide a Cerb door yet (I am sure my time will come) I can only think about it from my days as an Electronics Engineer, I would run my own temp wires from before the door hinge area to the motor to rule out a brocken cable core, you may need to disconnect the standard motor wires to rule out a short.
Have you tried someonelses control box?
Having not gotten inide a Cerb door yet (I am sure my time will come) I can only think about it from my days as an Electronics Engineer, I would run my own temp wires from before the door hinge area to the motor to rule out a brocken cable core, you may need to disconnect the standard motor wires to rule out a short.
Have you tried someonelses control box?
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