Removing front suspension
Discussion
You can just 'tap' out the track rid end, alternatively buy a ball joint separator.
Other than that, no, no special tools.
I did have to 'sacrafice' one of my spanners to hold the lower nut:
Just buy a cheap spanner and get busy on the bench grinder.
You may find the hub is 'welded' into the carrier, it's held in with M12 allen bolts (if memory servers correctly) which are very tight. Get a decent set of allen sockets, cheap ones will round or worse still destroy the bolt head itself and it'll then be a real swine to get them out.
There are loads of pics on my web site and no, it's not a difficult job, but do be careful to hang onto all the top-hat spacers etc, as you'll probabaly need them.
Good luck
Tim
Other than that, no, no special tools.
I did have to 'sacrafice' one of my spanners to hold the lower nut:
Just buy a cheap spanner and get busy on the bench grinder.
You may find the hub is 'welded' into the carrier, it's held in with M12 allen bolts (if memory servers correctly) which are very tight. Get a decent set of allen sockets, cheap ones will round or worse still destroy the bolt head itself and it'll then be a real swine to get them out.
There are loads of pics on my web site and no, it's not a difficult job, but do be careful to hang onto all the top-hat spacers etc, as you'll probabaly need them.
Good luck
Tim
From memory the only Top Hat washer you reuse, if using Powerflex bushes, is on the top rear wishbone, there are anothers either side of the tie-rod bush, but my memory is atrocious and i can't remember if they're used or not. 
They look like this, or least they do after blasting and re-plating:
Steve Heath sells a bolt kit, I found that two bolts were too long and two too short, or more accurately just long enough with 1/2 width nylocs. So, don't think you're going mad if the bolts aren't exactly the same. The important bit is the o/d of the bolts, they're all imperial btw. But do make sure the Nylocs have sufficient thread for purchase. Oh, and use plenty of Loctite, I used 243.
I replaced all bolts, where possible with a2 grade stainless as they do rust like buggers.
Oh, and one last thing that I have discovered subsequent to the rebuild...
...the lower wishbone ball-joint, the one that is a jaguar item, not only must the edges be chamfered but the front MUST NOT EXTEND BEYOND THE CURVATURE OF THE SUSPENSION ARM, if you don't check this it can make contact with the brake disk and that is not a good idea! I know from experience.
Good luck
Tim
They look like this, or least they do after blasting and re-plating:
Steve Heath sells a bolt kit, I found that two bolts were too long and two too short, or more accurately just long enough with 1/2 width nylocs. So, don't think you're going mad if the bolts aren't exactly the same. The important bit is the o/d of the bolts, they're all imperial btw. But do make sure the Nylocs have sufficient thread for purchase. Oh, and use plenty of Loctite, I used 243.
I replaced all bolts, where possible with a2 grade stainless as they do rust like buggers.
Oh, and one last thing that I have discovered subsequent to the rebuild...
...the lower wishbone ball-joint, the one that is a jaguar item, not only must the edges be chamfered but the front MUST NOT EXTEND BEYOND THE CURVATURE OF THE SUSPENSION ARM, if you don't check this it can make contact with the brake disk and that is not a good idea! I know from experience.
Good luck
Tim
PS: That reminds me i must write the article for Sprint that I've been promising Iain for months. 
Edited by TT Tim on Monday 30th June 09:44
caduceus said:
Whats happened to your tvrcerbera site Tim?
Link doesn't work, and the homepage is empty
Odd,Link doesn't work, and the homepage is empty
Does this work?
http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/
Tim
TT Tim said:
caduceus said:
Whats happened to your tvrcerbera site Tim?
Link doesn't work, and the homepage is empty
Odd,Link doesn't work, and the homepage is empty
Does this work?
http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/
Tim
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