Can you get ?

[Peter123]

A cool running thermostat for the LS1 ?

Wortech told me, I have too much heat retention under the bonnaet, so I`m looking for ways to cool it all down, and create more through airflow.

Any ideas would be most appreciated

Thanks
Pete

[crisisjez]

Think Harryoz was intending to ease the problem via use of heat shrouds over the exhaust manifolds ducted out through holes in the bonnet `a la` Aston Vanquish.

[ringram]

Yeah you can get 160* thermo. Pretty simple install.
Stock ECT is 98*C from memory while you can get it down to 80*C with the 160*F thermo maybe even lower. You need to retune fan on/off temps with efilive or similar.
Depends on your radiator being able to carry more heat away.

Why is it hot what have you got under there? As mentioned wrapping headers, turbo's etc is probably a good idea too.

Just search on some us sites, like summitracing etc for the thermo I think thats where I got mine from.

[L2VXR]

Don't know if it works but you could try Water wetter:

www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=RED80204

[ringram]

Yeah I think thats more to keep the heads cooler, not so much reduce underbonnet temps. It reduces cavitation.

[Peter123]

ringram said:

Why is it hot what have you got under there? As mentioned wrapping headers, turbo's etc is probably a good idea too.

The LS1 is under the Astra Coupe bonnet Richard, not the same airflow as a Monaro
Headers are ceramic coated.

[SS HSV]

L2VXR said:

Don't know if it works but you could try Water wetter:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDeta...

Big thumbs up for this product from me. It does exactly what it says on the tin. Used to suffer excess heat problems under the rear clip in the Ultima and this kept it in check.

Makes water 'wetter'

[ringram]

Aha, I was wondering if it was you Sir.
You could wrap the headers as well. But it reduces their life IIRC.
You can retune stock fans anyway and drop it say 10*C without a thermostat change. Thats if you are still managing the fans from the ECU.

Some good info here on reducing temps http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0311_phr_com...
You can change plugs if things are getting too hot for a nice spark etc.

Edited by ringram on Thursday 10th July 22:24

[Paul--C]

http://www.coollouvres.com/

Used them on 2 cars so far with heat problems including my HSV Turbo, really work and far better than any other type I have used, look good too. They are pressed in so you will need to have the bonnet resprayed.

[stevieturbo]

What makes them think there is too much heat retention ? Have they monitored underbonnet temperatures ????

What sort of temps are you seeing, and under what conditions ?

Cooler stats are available. Standard one in mine seems to keep temps around 86deg ( which is oddly low )
Ive ran a cooler one, and it keeps mid 70's

SLP make the cooler stats etc. OR...Summit, and any of the typical LS vendors can supply them.
SLE-100223 is the part number from Summit circa $60.

Be careful, that is the complete stat and housing. Later cars seem to use a separate stat and housing. So to fit the loose stat, you need to butcher your existing housing, if you go down that route.

[S600VXR]

Paul--C said:

http://www.coollouvres.com/

Used them on 2 cars so far with heat problems including my HSV Turbo, really work and far better than any other type I have used, look good too. They are pressed in so you will need to have the bonnet resprayed.

Works a treat on my SC Monaro... with the added improvement in looks!

[Afroman]

If you have aftermarket headers you can wrap them with header wrap.

[Harryoz]

crisisjez said:

Think Harryoz was intending to ease the problem via use of heat shrouds over the exhaust manifolds ducted out through holes in the bonnet `a la` Aston Vanquish.

Currently going for just holes in the bonnet. Hopefully thats enough

[Peter123]

Harryoz said:

Currently going for just holes in the bonnet. Hopefully thats enough

I`m going for holes in both the steel and plastic scuttle panels, at the back of the engine bay below the windscreen.

[stevieturbo]

AFAIK, close to the base of the windscreen is a high pressure area, so air would tend to go in, rather than out.
This is why this area is used for the heater intake etc.

Although when stationary, it should work as an outlet ok.

[the muppet]

[quote=stevieturbo]AFAIK, close to the base of the windscreen is a high pressure area, so air would tend to go in, rather than out.
This is why this area is used for the heater intake etc.


Yep, that's why first gen 1967-9 Camaros had cowl induction hoods (bonnets). GM had some pressure and flow figures that proved it, then they homologated them for street use.

[Boosted LS1]

stevieturbo said:

AFAIK, close to the base of the windscreen is a high pressure area, so air would tend to go in, rather than out.
This is why this area is used for the heater intake etc.

Although when stationary, it should work as an outlet ok.

Outside rear corners of the bonnet are usually low pressure and good extraction points. You can check where air flow changes from high to low pressure with wool tufts. You can also fit a spoiler under the engine in some situations.

[Peter123]

Achieved today ............

Removed the sound insulation on underside of the bonnet.
Insulated around the air temp sensor and wiring.
Installed a cold air feed from the front bumper to the air filter.